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Well… not sure what I’ll be running tomorrow. I have graduated from melting a body with acetone to having a chassis melted in the oven. I didn’t have the correct size aluminum pan to do the water bath so I was “air baking” it and had yet to retrieve the chassis from the oven when my wife preheated it for baking. The results are what you would expect. That said, it is FLAT!
I think I have another Mazda chassis in the parts locker, but if not I’ll have to select a car from the archives. (Thankfully, it is plenty deep.)
On Saturday, October 28, 2023 the ASCC membership came together to discuss and vote on our 2024 series. We had some great discussion, one surprise addition, and impassioned pitch on why we probably don’t want to tackle the George Turner cars as a series. (As impressive as they are as models, they aren’t considered suitable for our club series.). We also scheduled each series into its time slot. Series rules pages will begin to be posted over the coming weeks, but for series that we have run before the rules will remain largely the same so readers can get a sense of how to prepare a car within the rules. (i.e. Group C and BRM Group 2)
Take a look a the table below, check out the available cars, and come race!
- The SRC series (Assuming we “qualify”) sounds interesting. High-quality and interesting cars, plus there is some good exposure for the club. However, it does consume several slots on the series calendar, so something to be considered.
- Group 2 again, please. That was great racing.
- I assume we will be moving to the next decade with Monte Carlo? (Maybe the third decade will be the charm for me.)
- Club-to-Club proxy race. I noticed that we are getting referrals from a club site in the UK. The Wolverhampton Scalextric & Slot Car club has listed our web site under the Useful Links section of their site. Which generated a Series Idea: I wonder if there might be a fun one-off proxy race we could do with them next year. (or any other club for that matter)
I will be dropping the first race, as I can’t find my rally cars. But I plan to run an SCX Alpine and Fiat 124 Spyder. (When I finally find them!). I’ll follow up with pics and specs once they have been located.
Two ideas:
- An environmental race, meaning that we would run three heats: One in the light, one in the dark, and one with impaired visibility. Something like a “fogged” face shield or goggles worn by each driver.
- A TSD rally. (Time/Speed/Distance) Also known as a “regularity rally” [insert bathroom joke here :-)] This race will require a driver and navigator working together. The goal being to come as close as possible to a prescribed time over a predetermined distance. We can build in some controls to prevent stopping on track near the end to make the time by awarding points for closest time over distance, most consistent average time, lowest standard deviation between laps, etc… Not only challenging, but this could be a great way to build precision driving skills.
As I’m finishing up the assembly of my white kit, I must say that I’m impressed with the quality. Very little, if any flashing. Nothing warped in a weird way that requires any kind of remediation. It all just fits. And the chassis is mostly easy-peasy. If I have one small gripe, it is that the thickest body post shims don’t quite get the rear tires to clear the rear fenders at the width the tires are forced to with the box-stock axle spacers. Nothing that a bit of shimming or filing won’t fix.
Hat’s off to BRM/Revoslot!
That’s awesome, Mel! I have wrapped a car in the past. A BMW Group 5 M1. If you are willing, can you weigh the body before and after the wrap is applied? I neglected to do that with my BMW and have regretted that oversight, as I wanted to be able to compare the weight of wrap to that of a couple of coats and paint and a clear coat.
There was a lot of discussion at the club meeting on Nov 19 regarding the difference in the Group 2 BMW’s available from BRM. The three pictures below should make it clear. The differences are largely in fender flares vs bulged fenders and the front air dams. Also, the LM version appears with an extra set of headlights mounted in one photo. I don’t remember seeing those on Randy’s, but maybe they are in the box.
It is worth noting that if you are looking at the white kits on BRM’s web site, the photos are wrong. The DRM and LM types are reversed.
I will be entering an Art Car version of one of these. Most likely the Type A.
I’ll just continue to use my “re-branded” electric toothbrush motors.
Did I just say that out loud?!
Did I just say that out loud?!