2023 Policar Vintage F1 Series

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    • #18665
      Avatar photoBellator
      Keymaster

      Post ’em when you have them!

      Please post the car you plan to campaign to help others in the ordering of their car, if they don’t yet have it in hand.  🙂

      B

    • #18666
      Avatar photoporsche917
      Moderator

      I am planning on running the Jacky Ickx Ferrari 312B2 from the 1971 Zandvoort grand prix.  Jacky Ickx won the race from Pedro Rodriguez in his Yardley BRM by only 0.04 seconds!

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCIcTz5DpM4

    • #18667
      Avatar photoStabnSteer
      Participant

      And I have the Ronnie Peterson JPS Lotus.

      • This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by Avatar photoporsche917.
    • #18668
      Avatar photoporsche917
      Moderator

      Lotus 72 Germany 1970 Jochen Rindt

      Series managers – I have this car and though I’m planning on running the Ferrari I thought I would do some work to prepare this car to run.  I have to say this car is a pain in the butt.  All of the intricate parts at the rear of the car are not only too fragile but also rub on the rear axle.   I have had pieces fall off, rear disc brake on one side, one side of the roll bar, and another part that I don’t know what it was.  These parts look amazing and make the car look very realistic but the parts are also way too fragile.  I bring this up as I am curious how many of these parts will have to be on the car for it to pass inspection to run.

    • #18669
      Avatar photoJay
      Participant

      I plan on running the March 701 with a custom livery think

      dreams at the moment

      • This reply was modified 4 months, 1 week ago by Avatar photoJay.
    • #18670
      Avatar photoJay
      Participant

      oops

      • This reply was modified 4 months, 1 week ago by Avatar photoJay.
    • #18673
      Avatar photoporsche917
      Moderator

      From John B.

      For those of you who have not taken a Policar Vintage F1 car apart,  I want to give you fair warning, be careful!  Take out the 2 nose screws, the back two screws by the motor and the small brass screw behind the axle.  That is all!  5 screws total.  All have washers. When you lift the body with the engine together, the rear portion of the exhaust below the axle will slide or pop out of the headers.  That portion is held by the rear brass screw.   Shown below is a top view of the chassis,  a bottom view and the body with engine.  Take your time or you will break something.    Here is a good You Tube video on how to do it and tune the car.  It saved me some grief for sure.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXUDRYf1hiA

    • #18720
      Avatar photoDatto
      Participant
    • #18721
      Avatar photoRadial TA
      Participant

      I am running the March of Sir Jackie Stewart blue number 1.  Runs great since I have not taken it apart or crashed into the wall.  Have not looked at youtube yet.

      • This reply was modified 4 months, 1 week ago by Avatar photoRadial TA.
    • #18754
      Avatar photoButch
      Participant

      I will try this Farrari 126 will see how long it takes to break the wing 

    • #18755
      Avatar photoporsche917
      Moderator

      David – Unfortunately that car is not allowed as it raced in the 80’s and not the 70’s

      The selection of cars you can pick from is here with the exception of the Monoposto cars.

      FORMULA 1

       

       

    • #18757
      Avatar photochapracer65
      Participant

      I plan on running the Graham Hill Lotus.

    • #18761
      Avatar photoStabnSteer
      Participant

      For all – Myself and Mark are narrowing down the expectations for the rules and I hope to have a draft by the end of this week. The main plan will be to limit the overall rear track of the cars to a specific caliper measurement (tire bump to tire bump) and the width of the tire will also be specified (but there will not be a spec tire). This should allow the use of any of the cars linked in Marty’s post above and allow for creative tire options.

      I lament the new Ferrari 126 is not legal because it is just too cool. Not to mention it is SOOO darn wide that it would be impossible to get it to fit within the rules. That thing is about as wide as a 1/24 scale car!

      All the detailed, fragile bits on these cars are going to be an issue. There is a huge array of detail to these cars which makes it very difficult to give a blanket statement about what must be fitted that will work for every car as some are very detailed and others less-so. Stuff is going to break and the fiddly rear sway bars and such are a pain to maintain. I’m open to suggestions, but I’m leaning toward only requiring the in-tact one-piece monocoque, wings, driver head, and glass to be in place and everything else is up to you whether you wish to maintain it. Thoughts?

    • #18762
      Avatar photoRadial TA
      Participant

      I agree with the maintenance of the cars.  Wear and tear should be tolerated.  I have not checked to see if parts are even available if broken, not just falling off.  We should take special care to check cars and track for parts after heats.  Some of our cars, maybe even group C, have soft plastic wings and other parts in a replacement kit.  My car has clipped the walls and collided. but is intact as far as I can tell.

    • #18763
      Avatar photoStabnSteer
      Participant

      First pass at the rules. They won’t change a ton from here, but wanted to show the group what we’ve come up with and let you hash-out what you see fit to hash out. Marc and I will be reasonably receptive…to a point. 🙂

       

      Eligible Cars.

      • Any of the current range of Policar GP cars listed on this page, with the exception of the monposto cars: https://www.policar.it/formula-1/
        1972 Ferrari 312 B2
        1970 Lotus 72, 72E, 72D
        1970, 1971 March 701
        1971 BRM P160
      • 80’s Ferrari models coming available currently are not eligible for inclusion. In the event other 70’s models appear between now and the series, they will be considered on a case by case basis.

      Liveries.

      • Cars may race in the original Policar liveries or may be repainted if desired. While real 70’s liveries are desired, all one has to do is look at F1 in the 70’s to come across Lord Hesketh’s cars…so paint ’em as you like ’em.

      Body shell

      • Must be original Policar and be as complete as possible.
        Front and Rear wings, glass and driver head must be securely attached to the car at the start of every race.
      • All parts shipped with the car will be required at the beginning of the race season. Minor modifications of the parts can be performed to deal with poor fit. If parts break during the season, the general expectation is that the parts will be repaired – within reason. Requests to exclude a part from a car during the season due to terminal breakage must be brought to the series managers and a decision will be made.
      • Parts may be glued in place as desired.
      • Body screws are open.

      Chassis & Motor pod.

      • All cars must use a genuine Policar F1 motor mount and gear box assembly. Part numbers PC-H01, PC-H01as, PC-H03, PC-H03as.
      • MINOR modifications are permitted to these mounts to make them fit. What constitutes “minor” is up to the judgment of the series managers so ask before you begin modifying.
      • Chassis and body screws may be loose or removed as desired.
      • Grub screws may be fitted in the holes provided at the front of the chassis to set the front axle height.

      Motor

      • All cars must be powered by Policar PMX01 25000 RPM motor.

      Gears & Rear Axle

      •  All cars must use genuine Policar gears & rear axle. The optional Policar rear axle ratios are permitted.

      Wheels & Tyres

      • Front wheels must be original that came with the car.
      • Front track width must remain standard.
      • Front tires must be part PPT1220C1.
      • Front tyres may be glued and trued.
      • Rear wheels must be the plastic originals or the Policar aluminium replacement parts no PWH1234-AL or PW16011724A. Note that Lotus 72E and 72D will be required to change their rear wheel and tire type.
      • All wheels must have inserts that match on all 4 corners.
      • Overall width of rear, measured over the rear wheels and tyres (bulge to bulge on mounted tire) must not exceed 62mm.
      • Rear tyres may be one of these Policar options  (PPT1310C1, PPT1219C1 PPT1219F22) OR any other tire that matches the maximum width measurement for the tires above (measurement method and size being verified). Measurement will be taken from mounted tire, bulge to bulge.
      • Rear tyres may be glued, trued and chamfered if desired.
      • PROHIBITED: Traction compounds. Glazing of front tires with Nail Polish or Super-Glue/CA

      Guide

      • Must be a genuine Policar guide to the same specification as supplied with the car.
      • Braids & Lead Wire are free choice.

      Additional Weight

      • Weight may be added inside the car only.
      • No weight will be allowed underneath the chassis and any added weight must not be visible outside the car.

      Track Power

      • Currently under consideration. Suggest 11 volts.
    • #18772
      Avatar photoporsche917
      Moderator

      What a great set of rules for a new and challenging series.  Well done Erik and Marc.

       

       

    • #18791
      Avatar photoMel
      Participant

      I am building a March 701 from a white kit.  I don’t know how true it will look to the period with the paint job, but all the parts should be right.  And this one is mostly orange… not green.  🙂

    • #18793
      Avatar photoBellator
      Keymaster

      Rules are looking good.

      I will be campaigning this lovely little BRM in the series.

      BRM P160 Number 14

    • #18880
      Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
      Participant

      Gorgeous Brian

    • #18906
      Avatar phototl1950
      Participant

      Has this class been approved?  If so any idea on the dates?

      Thanks.

      Tanner

       

    • #18908
      Avatar photoporsche917
      Moderator

      Tanner – The series has been approved and will run in Q4 of this year.  That means we will have two races every month in October, November, and December.  It should be an interesting series as there is not much you can do to these cars other than truing the tires.  It will be fun to watch and race.

    • #18911
      Avatar photoAutorama
      Keymaster

      I’ll race this fella:

    • #18912
      Avatar photoAutorama
      Keymaster

      All, I just took a first look at the car. Out of the box, I could tell something was rubbing inside as I manually turned the rear wheels. The stock stop collar is too wide for the corresponding cavity in the body. As I would rather not grind the body, can we allow aftermarket stop collars? It looks like one could also sand the stock stop collar but I am not sure how much material can be removed/if it would work given the thickness of the grub screw.

      • This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by Avatar photoAutorama.
    • #18941
      Avatar phototl1950
      Participant

      Think Ill give this one a go.

       

       

    • #18955
      Avatar photoStabnSteer
      Participant

      Policar has teased a couple new models, available for pre-order from Pendle:

      Lotus 72E No.6 Monza GP 1971

      BRM P160 No.17 1st Monaco 1972

      As of this writing, IF these show up by the 4th quarter, they will be allowed following the current rules.

    • #18956
      Avatar photoDatto
      Participant

      Just a heads up to everyone, there is a width jig for the Policar F! series at HQ by Erik’s pit station. If your car drops in without rubbing, it’s legal width-wise. Easier than fussing with calipers. If you would like to print your own, let me know if you would like the file. The forum didn’t like the .stl.

      • This reply was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by Avatar photoDatto.
      • This reply was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by Avatar photoDatto.
    • #18964
      Avatar photoporsche917
      Moderator

      Very nice!  Thanks for making this.

      Marty

    • #18968
      Avatar photoporsche917
      Moderator

      I’m having a big problem with my Ferrari.  After truing my rear wheels and putting my car on the track to test the wheels just spun and were not making contact with the track.  I then realized what was happening.  A piece of the body was poorly installed and was hitting the track, not allowing the wheels to contract the track.

      I am writing this to ask the race director to allow me to sand down the part of the Ferrari body that is making contact with the track.  Here is more information to support my request.

      I trued the rear wheels just to make them flat across the surface and not to remove extra material to lower the car.  I removed 0.27mm of material as you can see from the pics.  The top pic shows an untrued tire and the lower one shows my trued tire for comparison.

      As you can see there is only .27mm of material removed.

      The Ferrari body part that is making contact with the track can be seen in these photos.  You can see how it was installed at an angle where the back piece of the part makes contact with the track.

      You can see that the body part was installed at an angle that makes the back of the body part contact the track.

      I am hoping to be able to sand this poorly installed piece so my car will actually run as intended.

    • #18969
      Avatar photoRadial TA
      Participant

      Don’t remove the spark trail generator.  It will reduce the realism of the car as it accelerates and the rear squats.    (Of course this is not from the official class manager)

      Thanks for putting this on the forum for those of us who have not tried to setup our car yet.

    • #18970
      Avatar photoDatto
      Participant

      Marty,
      This had me looking at my Ferrari. The same piece was slightly askew, but not to the degree your is. I was able to push in the part, and seat it properly, but I realize that your situation may be different.

    • #18971
      Avatar photoporsche917
      Moderator

      I tried to remove it so I could refit it where it would be more flush with the back of the chassis but no luck.  I eventually ended up sanding it down a little to give me some clearance.  I have repainted the piece so it would not look that much different.

      Marty

    • #18984
      Avatar photoStabnSteer
      Participant

      That sounds good, Marty. The fit and finish of these critters, especially with the fiddly bits on the back, is turning out to be far from consistent. For all – In general, try re-fitting any poorly fitted parts instead of modifying, but barring that, there will be flexibility in policing this. We care a lot about rubber on the road and width but will be reasonable toward modifications to allow the car to run. We won’t be too reasonable with modifications that just make your life easier (like removing the fiddly bits).

    • #18985
      Avatar photoporsche917
      Moderator

      Thanks for the additional information.  Looking forward to seeing these cars on the track.

      Marty

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