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Tanner – The series has been approved and will run in Q4 of this year. That means we will have two races every month in October, November, and December. It should be an interesting series as there is not much you can do to these cars other than truing the tires. It will be fun to watch and race.
Here are the part numbers for the Paul Gage tires from Slot Car Corner.
PGT-17080SM – 17mm diameter, shore 40, harder
XGP-17080SM – 17mm diameter, shore 20 softer
PGT-18080SM – 18mm diameter, shore 40, harder
XGP-18080SM – 18mm diameter, shore 20 softer
I think it would be best to use the 17mm diameter but don’t know for certain without trying both. Maybe Marc can add some additional information to this discussion.
Marty
Absolutely! Can’t wait to see it. Brian is going to do one of his famous hydro dip’s that I can’t wait to see.
Marty
Thanks for such a great article. I really appreciate you taking the time to put this together.
The last time we ran the RevoSlot Porsche GT2’s we had some issues with the stock tires. In light of this, I tried the Paul Gage tires for RevoSlot cars to see if they would work any better. I discovered almost the same exact performance on our main club track as you had on your Spottswood circuit. The harder ones were easier to control but the softer ones had slightly better grip while the stock tires were the best all around – with the exception of their degradation issue.
I don’t know if we will have any wear issues with the stock RevoSlot tires on the rally track as the speeds and acceleration out of the turns is so different.
Marty
Posted from Marc Tyler
Paul Gage tires for Revoslot Grp 2. Mini-review.
I decided to order some Paul Gage urethane tires sized to fit the Revo Group 2 cars. The order came from Slot car corner, both the softer (XPG-1780SM) and harder (PGT-1780SM) tires.
These tires do not come with the interior rib of the stock tires, so I wanted to make sure they were mounted on the rims fairly true to begin with. After slightly roughing up the wheels to provide a “tooth” for the glue, I wiped down both the rims, and the insides of the tires with some isopropyl alcohol. No issues with the solvent reacting with the urethane that I noticed. I then started the tires onto the rims, taking care that the open pour side of the tire was facing the inside. I pushed down on the hub to seat the tire squarely on the rim, and gave them a test spin on the truer (without tightening, to avoid nudging the tire). The hard tires were trickier to get on straight, but it only took a little bit of fettling to get rid of the wobble. Tires successfully dry-fit.
On to gluing.
The method I used was to use a tiny bit of the black C/A on a toothpick and running it in
between tire and rim. Usually took 2 reps of this per side. I glued the backs first to get the tires properly registered on the rims. Waited a half hour, turned over the wheels and repeated the process on the front. Note: I have had experience with Shoo Goo not curing properly against urethane, so I avoided it.On to truing.
Truing urethane tires is a breeze compared to rubber, the process is a matter of minutes, not hours. The material is much less sensitive to heat, and cuts more easily on my Hudy truer than the stock rubber tires. The Paul Gage tires also do not have that seam down the middle of the tire, and were much less out-of-round than the BRM tires. The Paul Gage urethanes are not softened by lighter fluid, so the usual polishing method will not work, I did get them smoother by wet sanding with Tamiya 1500 and 3000 sanding foam sheets. They never did get that “Just sprayed with armor all look, though.
Performance results. Some surprises
I ran both my Alfa and My Escort at 11 volts on my Spottswood track (yellow lane). Each got to run 60 laps with each of the tire choices. Here is what I got:
Observations
This test was me driving (and all that implies) and on my track. The rally track is a different animal, and this may not reflect these tires behavior there, but I would like to lobby for making them legal for the GRP 2 event coming in spring.
I expected the soft tires to do better, but they were the slowest of the lot, and they wear like old Dunlops! The stock rubber tires are the grippiest, but the harder urethanes feel very controllable to me, and they did get the best time.
Thanks for letting be prattle on about this.
-Datto
David – Unfortunately that car is not allowed as it raced in the 80’s and not the 70’s
The selection of cars you can pick from is here with the exception of the Monoposto cars.
After spending some time preparing both my Ford Escort and BMW 2002 I have some information I would like to share with the group.
It helps the cars body float if you use the optional brass flat head 1.5mm body screws. RevoSlot Part RS-213b
It helps to have the front body screws tighter than the rear screws to keep the rear tires from making contact with the inside of the wheel wells on the body.
Be careful to not true the front tires too low. With the guide inside the chassis as far as it will go, the stock braid, and un-trued tires the front tires barely make contact with the track. If you true the front tires any lower they will no longer make contact with the track and might cause the front of the car to tip.
Using NSR super thin braid, removing the spring from the guide and tightening the guide up all the way, the front tires barely touch the track. If you true the front tires too much they will not make contact with the track and your car will tip from side to side on the guide.
You will have to glue the rear tires to the rims as the tires can peel away from the wheels under acceleration.
These cars use a unique 14mm wheel. The only tires that will fit on them are replacement RevoSlot tires so don’t spend any time trying to find alternatives.
From John B.
For those of you who have not taken a Policar Vintage F1 car apart, I want to give you fair warning, be careful! Take out the 2 nose screws, the back two screws by the motor and the small brass screw behind the axle. That is all! 5 screws total. All have washers. When you lift the body with the engine together, the rear portion of the exhaust below the axle will slide or pop out of the headers. That portion is held by the rear brass screw. Shown below is a top view of the chassis, a bottom view and the body with engine. Take your time or you will break something. Here is a good You Tube video on how to do it and tune the car. It saved me some grief for sure.
Lotus 72 Germany 1970 Jochen Rindt
Series managers – I have this car and though I’m planning on running the Ferrari I thought I would do some work to prepare this car to run. I have to say this car is a pain in the butt. All of the intricate parts at the rear of the car are not only too fragile but also rub on the rear axle. I have had pieces fall off, rear disc brake on one side, one side of the roll bar, and another part that I don’t know what it was. These parts look amazing and make the car look very realistic but the parts are also way too fragile. I bring this up as I am curious how many of these parts will have to be on the car for it to pass inspection to run.
I am planning on running the Jacky Ickx Ferrari 312B2 from the 1971 Zandvoort grand prix. Jacky Ickx won the race from Pedro Rodriguez in his Yardley BRM by only 0.04 seconds!
Holy cow! I don’t know if any of you running this series have checked the RPM on your motors but both of my motors were very “hot”. I have one that has an RPM of 26.6K and another at 25.8K at 12 volts. These are supposed to be the standard Slot.it 23K motors. This may require me to gear down from the stock gearing or add a significant amount of weight. Running one of these “hot” motors and the stock gearing the projected wheel RPM is 9,144. That is super quick for a very light 58.5 gram car. As they say in the Pirelli ad “Power is nothing without control”.
You have been warned.
