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[attachment file=”3d-chassis-polo-08.jpg”][caption id="attachment_10978" align="aligncenter" width="709"] sloting plus polo mods[/caption]

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An article of the online magazine Sports Car Digest has details of an interesting catch all class we might consider for slot cars next year. I think it is group F with a wide range of cars from the Can-Am through Daytona Prototypes. I don’t want to clog the club site with this. How are we going to submit pre-meeting suggestions for next year like the 2 class proposal from Steve?

Randy,

Here is the paragraph describing Group F.

One of the more intriguing run groups was Group F, which combined 1983-2007 World SportsCar Championship and Le Mans Prototype entries along with 1966-72 Can-Am. It is rare to see a 2006 Riley Scott being pursued by a 1970 McLaren and a 2005 Audi R8 Le Mans Prototype, but it happened at the 2017 Spring Classic Laguna Seca. The 2005 Audi R8 LMP driven by Travis Engen won every time he started on the grid, scoring Group F victories on Saturday and twice on Sunday and winning Saturday’s one-hour vintage enduro that was open to all close-wheeled race cars.

I believe these cars were grouped together because they didn’t have enough entries to make a WSC group or a CanAm group. They really do not belong together in a vintage race.

I would be for:

1. A Slot.it or similar Can Am class i.e. McLaren M8 D etc.

2. Modern WEC or Imsa Prototypes.

3. Slot.it Ford GT 40s Mk 1 & Mk II.

John B

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I see 1 Ninco 4 wheel drive car, but the Electric Dreams site might not be showing which ones are 4WD.  Is Ninco the only brand of 4WD.  Is there a more informative site with 1:32 rally car info?

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I have the same problem with my MG and replacement chassis, but I suspect the scaley interior with the posts coming down to the rear axle/bushing may also conflict with the new chassis set up.  They probably will touch the bushing and stop any chance of float.  Can we trim/remove those posts?  I suspect all of our cars have those posts and one person told me weeks ago those could always be cut off, but let’s have a ruling.

And thanks to all of the members who have helped me prepare cars.  The 917 with the small motor and much skilled tuning is a joy to drive and compete with, now running full blast!

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My favorite 1:1 sports car races were the Trans Am races with the pony cars in over two liter and under two liter european/japanese sports sedans ( later under 2.5 l).  We could easily do that type of race with the differentiation of the max motor sizes.  Many of you have the pony car already.  I don’t remember seeing any of the smaller sports cars running as slot cars during Thursday evenings.

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I like the proposed motor differentiation to make GT and Prototype run different lap times.  Would some heats mix the GT and Prototypes, or would the A and B grouping keep the heats “pure” each race?

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Second time is the charm.

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John and I are getting Grp. 5 tatoos of Zakspeed logo on our biceps.  I get the red/gold one.

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When the wheel and tire sizes are updated, please list the makes and models of wheels and tires and the vendors who have those available.  I’m not finding hubless wheels in a size I guess is correct and the same as the stock scaly wheels.

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I bought the red and white insurance MG and a shapeways slot.it chassis Sunday.  I hope to amend the livery to a Scotland theme adding blue words and a flag in various places.

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https://www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/blog/sloting-plus-3d-chassis-conversion/

Thanks for the information about the VW upgrade.  I have ordered the parts through King’s and they say everything is showing as available as of 2/26/17.  All parts I have never used so it should be a learning experience.

 

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I would also like a Honda and would do a paint modification to distinguish my car.  However, is one of the BTCC Scalextric cars better than the rest, or worse than the rest, based on dimensions?  I have checked the dimensions of the stock cars, not accounting for replacement parts, on the internet, and found the following mm or grams:

Honda L=131; H=40; WB=82; FT=58; RT=58; Weight=74

BMW  L=136; H=42; WB=83.5; FT=58; RT=59; Weight=70

VW      L=150; H=42; WB=85; FT=58; RT=58; Weight=81

MG     L=146; H=42; WB=85; FT=58; RT=59; Weight=72

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What I have observed this year is that there are not any penalties for body screws falling on the track during races and I was told there is no need for taping screws.

Wings also are not treated as proposed.  We could change the rule as shown to reflect recent practice:

• Wings must always be in place at the beginning of the first heat for that car. If a wing becomes detached from a car, the race will not stop for a wing incident.  The car may run the car’s next heat without the wing, or upon the request of the car’s driver, an additional 2 minutes between heats will be granted for repairs, but the car must run without a wing if the repairs fail.

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This is the car I have owned for about 2 years already and will run the body unless the OG’s show me it is crap.  What kind of chassis do I need to put it on to have a competitive car?  Scalextric C3524, 2013 Monte Carlo VW Polo R WRC #7.  In spite of my beginner car building skill, I’m glad that we are running a series with possibility of broad selection of slot car brands and good mix of cars represented.

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This is your beginner speculating on the unfamiliar world of volts.

Would 12 volts on the 20,000 Shark simulate the high revving Porsche motor better than 35,000 at 11 volts?  Does the 12 volts make really hyper active cars?

If we don’t do the 20,000 for the 917’s, maybe the Goodwood cars should be 20,000 at 12 volts.

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