2017 WRC Rules discussion

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    • #10003
      Avatar photoAutorama
      Keymaster

      All,

      2017 WRC rules have been posted and are up for discussion: http://austinslotcarclub.com/2017-racing-series/2017-wrc/.

      Please let me know if I missed a car from the approved list. If you would like to add or change something, please give a reason for the modification. We will vote on changes at our club meetings.

      Ary.

       

    • #10085
      Avatar photoAutorama
      Keymaster

      Calling dibs on the SCX Ford Fiesta RS WRC “ST-RX43”:

    • #10090
      Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
      Participant

      Dibs – Subaru Imprezza – Avantslot Body on HRS2subaru-imprezza-puma-avanta-slot11351009

       

    • #10096
      Avatar phototurboman93
      Participant

      Ninco Subaru WRC Impreza P. Solberg

      2016-12-22-20-22-53

    • #10097
      Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
      Participant

      Shawn – sweet!

    • #10106
      Avatar photoRadial TA
      Participant

      This is the car I have owned for about 2 years already and will run the body unless the OG’s show me it is crap.  What kind of chassis do I need to put it on to have a competitive car?  Scalextric C3524, 2013 Monte Carlo VW Polo R WRC #7.  In spite of my beginner car building skill, I’m glad that we are running a series with possibility of broad selection of slot car brands and good mix of cars represented.


      c3524-380

    • #10107
      Avatar phototurboman93
      Participant

      Randy,

      Sloting Plus makes a 3D printed chassis and lexan interior for the Scalextric Polo WRC.

      https://www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/blog/sloting-plus-3d-chassis-conversion/

    • #10114
      Avatar photoMitleid
      Keymaster

      looks like I am going to try something a little differant then my original WRX idea.
      Pug 207

    • #10117
      Avatar phototurboman93
      Participant

      Nice, Steve!!  Stock chassis or 3D?

    • #10118
      Avatar photoButch
      Participant

      Jordans Car Subaru Blue

      • #10124
        Avatar photoMitleid
        Keymaster

        stock as they come it looks fairly decent

    • #10131
      Avatar photoMitleid
      Keymaster

      I recommend a revision of the rules in this series that allow for the individual racers to adjust the voltage for their own stint. This series spotlights how fast a racer can drive his car around the track, why not let the racer tune the track to the car’s utmost ability?

      Not to mention that different brands are designed to run at various voltages. While NSR runs fast at 12 volts; brands like SCX and Ninco are designed to run at a higher voltages (14-18 volts).

      What are your thoughts?

    • #10133
      Avatar photoAutorama
      Keymaster

      [quote=10131]I recommend a revision of the rules in this series that allow for the individual racers to adjust the voltage for their own stint. This series spotlights how fast a racer can drive his car around the track, why not let the racer tune the track to the car’s utmost ability? Not to mention that different brands are designed to run at various voltages. While NSR runs fast at 12 volts; brands like SCX and Ninco are designed to run at a higher voltages (14-18 volts). What are your thoughts? [/quote]

      Voted to be implemented on Club’s January meeting.

    • #10141
      Avatar phototurboman93
      Participant

      What was the vote on this?  IMO, we should keep it the same for everyone.  I see issues arising as voltage is adjusted, racers complaining that the voltage wasn’t exactly set for their cars, blah blah blah.  Seems to me like a point of contention that could be easily avoided.

    • #10144
      Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
      Participant

      Vote of members present was unanimous in favor of allowing voltage adjustment by racer.  The issue came up – in part – b/c cars like SCX are designed for 18v and if the stock motors are used to drive the AWD they would be at a disadvantage at a lower fixed voltage.  We could go into several details on voltage defaults for various brands etc. but members present were open to the idea, mainly b/c the voltage did not affect any other racers and the racer makes their own choice.

      Racers **cannot** complain; they set their own voltage and succeed or fail as a result. If you want low voltage for reliable handling and results are too slow … tough luck; ditto for high voltage for faster laps and resulting fly-offs.

      Members present: Ary, Steve, John, David, Alejandro, Roy, Rich, Randy, Russ, Brett, Mark

    • #10163
      Avatar photoporsche917
      Moderator

      Is the NSR Fiat Abarth S2000 legal for the series?  It raced in WRC events in the S2000 class just like the Mini and the Peugeot 207 (Avant Slot).

      Marty

    • #10179
      Avatar photoAutorama
      Keymaster

      All,  major changes have been made to the series rules, please review a.s.a.p. and discuss them here.

      Changes summary:

      • Shawn will manage this series henceforth.
      • Clarification of the WRC category and cars allowed in the series.

       

    • #10182
      Avatar photochapracer65
      Participant

      Question about eligible cars:  I was looking at Auto Art rally cars and came across several that would appear to be eligible models but have earlier liveries.  Examples:

      Mitsubishi Lancer from 2002 rally

      Subaru Impreza from 2004 rally

      Peugeot 206 from 2003 rally

      Ford FocusRS from 2003 rally

      Did these cars change from 2002-4 rallies to 2005+ rallies?  Does the model have to be specified as a 2005-2015 livery?  Is it specific to the car (Peugeot 206 changed but Ford FocusRS did not, etc.?)   I see some cars do not specify year.  If I come across others, should I ask before purchasing?

    • #10183
      Avatar phototurboman93
      Participant

      Russell,

      The Peugeot 206 and Mitsubishi Lancer VII didn’t compete in 2005.  The Mitsubishi Lancer IX and X are the appropriate models.  The Ford Focus RS and Impreza of those years did.  The livery doesn’t have to be in 2005+, only the car model.

      Please post to this forum if you have any questions before buying a car.  I’ll monitor on a daily basis.

    • #10188
      Avatar photoAutorama
      Keymaster

      The following has been added / revised:

      • Guide may not project beyond the body when aligned for straight, as viewed from directly above. Exception to the rule applies to the guide keel (only).
      • #10497
        Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
        Participant

        Sorry Ary, but what is really changed?  The Keel is the fin/blade and the longest part of the guide, hence the only component of the guide that could be visible from under the nose.  Also, how is this different from any other series where the general rule is that – from above, you are not allowed to have any part of the guide (aka. the keel/blade) visible from under the body,  spoiler or the chassis.

        What am I not understanding … I do not understand the impact of the change b/c it appears there is no effective change.

    • #10194
      Avatar photochapracer65
      Participant
    • #10195
      Avatar photochapracer65
      Participant

      What about the “pro” series of SCX like this one: https://www.132slotcar.us/store/product_info.php?cPath=22_47&products_id=2929

      How much of an advantage is four wheel drive?

      The “pro” series claims other benefits like aluminum wheels, lightweight body, and adjustability.  I wanted the Sainz car but could take one of the pro cars if needed.  Is this series of cars better?

      Thanks

    • #10197
      Avatar phototurboman93
      Participant

      Russell,

      Yes, the Xsara ran in 2005 and is legal.  I have exact SCX Pro car that I can bring to the track in a couple of weeks.  I’m camping this weekend for scouts otherwise I’d bring it on Saturday.  The 4 wheel drive system is a subject of debate.  The Pro cars are better than the regular cars as they have all the parts you’d be replacing in the standard car.

    • #10503
      Avatar photoAutorama
      Keymaster

      [quote=10188]Guide may not project beyond the body when aligned for straight, as viewed from directly above. Exception to the rule applies to the guide keel (only).[/quote]

      The rule is to prevent guides being mounted beyond the body but still allowing guides, such as Scaleauto’s, where the keel go past the forward most point of the base,  to be used.

    • #10769
      Avatar phototurboman93
      Participant

      John sent this through email and I wanted it collected here:

      Shawn,

      You are the WRC series manager.  Apologies for this not being on the forum but I still have not mastered that beast.  Ordered a Scalextric Ford Fiesta WRC car because it has a Sloting.Plus chassis and vacuum interior available for it.  The Stobart Fiesta came new in the box with the windows blacked out.  The rules specify clear glass. Other than buying another car, can I just install the vacuum formed interior with the drivers and navigator painted and move forward?

      Thanks,

      Attachments:
    • #10772
      Avatar phototurboman93
      Participant

      John,

      Sorry but the high impact cars are not allowed.  We determined that we wanted a realistic looking car so the clear glass and full interior are required.  You’ll need another body.

    • #10813
      Avatar photoRadial TA
      Participant

      I see 1 Ninco 4 wheel drive car, but the Electric Dreams site might not be showing which ones are 4WD.  Is Ninco the only brand of 4WD.  Is there a more informative site with 1:32 rally car info?

    • #10881
      Avatar phototurboman93
      Participant

      Randy,

      I wouldn’t get too focused on the 4WD thing.  In my experience, it really hasn’t helped or made a difference in the performance of the car.

    • #10979
      Avatar photoRadial TA
      Participant

      [attachment file=”3d-chassis-polo-08.jpg”][caption id="attachment_10978" align="aligncenter" width="709"] sloting plus polo mods[/caption]

    • #11003
      Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
      Participant

      Good looking car Randy – are you trying to create a “dibs” list, have some tech questions, or just showing off how good your car will look after we landscape the track?

      spyder out

      • #11033
        Avatar photoRadial TA
        Participant

        This is the Pendle Polo mods which shows the rear tires sticking out of the fenders.  I should have noticed.  The picture shows the Pendle car stopped by the outhouse.

    • #11031
      Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
      Participant

      B-GROUP RALLY CAR SETUP
      I lucked out and placed 3rd in the first race, and no doubt next month when a few other members enter my overall standing will slip. However, here is the setup I used – JIC any of you can use it as a reference.

      CHASSIS: SlottingPlus3D-I trimmed the chassis to fit *inside (not under) the body for freer float. The plastic they used is easily stripped by the front-axle grub screws (so once my front axle was adjusted I used locktite (nail polish also works) on the exposed threads of the top half of the upper grubs to prevent slipping.  The heads of my lower grubs are Not exposed so I did not Locktite them (that would have blocked the head-hole for the wrench)).
      BODY-SCREWS: 6mm Slot.It steel phillips-head with smooth shanks.

      BALLAST: One 7gm lead-slug behind the guide boss with 7g lead-slugs stuck to each side of the motor. Total weight appx 95g.

      BODY: I had a rally lexan interior (bought last year from ProfessorMotor) complete with navigator – so I replaced the already light and flat interior of my AvantSlot Imprezza.
      Lexan windows are legal, so I replaced the windsheild and rear-window with sheet plastic from a HO car’s box (similar to what is used on some Pioneer and Scaley boxes). Page-protector sheet plastic is also thin, so if you want some, there are some sheet protectors in our Magazine bins below the rally track across from the power supplies and other common pit equipment.

      I liked the driver names and flag in the side-rear-windows, so I carefully used a hot-razor-knife to cut out the side-rear-windows (which are reqd to be retained). I sanded the rough edges left by the hot knife off the side-rear-windows and tacked them in with tiny dabs of ShoeGoo.

      GUIDE: ScaleAuto Red deep-racing guide, with long-shaft (so I could trim it to fit the ‘tall’ boss/tongue on the 3D chassis. Rounded the tip of the ‘battleship’ flag-nose -so it stopped clicking in the trough of the 2nd dip in the main straightaway. Trimmed from the back so it was 17.5mm long from the nose. Most of flag is leading the guidepost/flagpole. I added two thin metal-spacers help it move smoothly across the bottom of the 3D-chassis.

      FRONT WHEELS/TIRES: Slot.It 15.8×10 aluminum short-hubs. A slight hub or spacer is needed to prevent tire rub on the 3D chassis. Tires: Slot.It Zero-Grip condoms (17dx10w) Flying 0.5mm off a flat block.

      REAR WHEELS/TIRES: SlotingPlus 15.8×10 aluminum no-hubs (with 0.50/440 grubs). Tires: Slot.It F30s. (I first tried N22s but they were “too grippy” and did not drift enough).

      MOTOR: A spare Ninco in-line 26,000rpm @14.8V ‘NC10-Exceeder’. At 12v this motor is 21,000; I ran at 10volts so effective rpm was 17,493.
      GEARS: 28z(yellow)/9z = 3.11 therefore Calc’ed rear-wheel RPM at 10v is 5,625. Ball-bearings are used for the rear axles.

      DRIVING TECHNIQUE: A smooth squeeze, with no abrupt braking or fast-feathers. A short pulse on the straight – slight throttle on the humps, agressive in the hill-climb, steady moderate squeeze in all the switch-backs.

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