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The proper routing and securing of motor lead wires is one of the critical elements of slot car construction. The wires need to be run so the guide has smooth centering return; the wires should not interfere with the axle, bodywork, or the interior. Factory chassis generally have slots and tabs to hold the lead wires for proper operation. With custom or modified chassis, one must sometimes resort to gluing or tying down the wires, which can be messy and make it difficult when the motor must be changed. I have come up with a simple way to make holders for the motor lead wires using straight pins.
First, grip the straight pin near the point with small needle-nose pliers. Bend the pin into a loop around the pliers and cut off the excess.
Then, using a pin vise, drill a hole where you want to locate the wire holder. A #75 drill bit worked for the straight pins I have. It is better to use a manual pin vise rather than a drill as one has more control. I drilled holes in the front axle mounts. Dip the loop holder in super glue and insert in the hole. You can put holders wherever you need them. I needed to have the wires raised in the center, so I made a longer loop holder.
I also use straight pins for reinforcing rods where chassis parts are connected. I usually do this with axle mounts after they are superglued in place, drilling holes through the chassis into the mounts, then supergluing a section of pin in the holes. This adds a mechanical connection in addition to the superglue.
High tech Russell! The chassis looks like a great custom job also.
Blue-tack also helps keep wires attached to the chassis and to tune the “spring” tension on the guide. Little quarter inch blobs at the front of the chassis seem to work well.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose
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