Dibs – Subaru Imprezza – Avantslot Body on HRS2

Ninco Subaru WRC Impreza P. Solberg

Shawn – sweet!

This is the car I have owned for about 2 years already and will run the body unless the OG’s show me it is crap.  What kind of chassis do I need to put it on to have a competitive car?  Scalextric C3524, 2013 Monte Carlo VW Polo R WRC #7.  In spite of my beginner car building skill, I’m glad that we are running a series with possibility of broad selection of slot car brands and good mix of cars represented.

Randy,

Sloting Plus makes a 3D printed chassis and lexan interior for the Scalextric Polo WRC.

https://www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/blog/sloting-plus-3d-chassis-conversion/

looks like I am going to try something a little differant then my original WRX idea.

Nice, Steve!!  Stock chassis or 3D?

Jordans Car Subaru Blue

I recommend a revision of the rules in this series that allow for the individual racers to adjust the voltage for their own stint. This series spotlights how fast a racer can drive his car around the track, why not let the racer tune the track to the car’s utmost ability?

Not to mention that different brands are designed to run at various voltages. While NSR runs fast at 12 volts; brands like SCX and Ninco are designed to run at a higher voltages (14-18 volts).

What are your thoughts?

What was the vote on this?  IMO, we should keep it the same for everyone.  I see issues arising as voltage is adjusted, racers complaining that the voltage wasn’t exactly set for their cars, blah blah blah.  Seems to me like a point of contention that could be easily avoided.

Vote of members present was unanimous in favor of allowing voltage adjustment by racer.  The issue came up – in part – b/c cars like SCX are designed for 18v and if the stock motors are used to drive the AWD they would be at a disadvantage at a lower fixed voltage.  We could go into several details on voltage defaults for various brands etc. but members present were open to the idea, mainly b/c the voltage did not affect any other racers and the racer makes their own choice.

Racers **cannot** complain; they set their own voltage and succeed or fail as a result. If you want low voltage for reliable handling and results are too slow … tough luck; ditto for high voltage for faster laps and resulting fly-offs.

Members present: Ary, Steve, John, David, Alejandro, Roy, Rich, Randy, Russ, Brett, Mark

Is the NSR Fiat Abarth S2000 legal for the series?  It raced in WRC events in the S2000 class just like the Mini and the Peugeot 207 (Avant Slot).

Marty

Question about eligible cars:  I was looking at Auto Art rally cars and came across several that would appear to be eligible models but have earlier liveries.  Examples:

Mitsubishi Lancer from 2002 rally

Subaru Impreza from 2004 rally

Peugeot 206 from 2003 rally

Ford FocusRS from 2003 rally

Did these cars change from 2002-4 rallies to 2005+ rallies?  Does the model have to be specified as a 2005-2015 livery?  Is it specific to the car (Peugeot 206 changed but Ford FocusRS did not, etc.?)   I see some cars do not specify year.  If I come across others, should I ask before purchasing?

Russell,

The Peugeot 206 and Mitsubishi Lancer VII didn’t compete in 2005.  The Mitsubishi Lancer IX and X are the appropriate models.  The Ford Focus RS and Impreza of those years did.  The livery doesn’t have to be in 2005+, only the car model.

Please post to this forum if you have any questions before buying a car.  I’ll monitor on a daily basis.

Shawn

How about this Citroen: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SCX-DIGITAL-13040-Citroen-XSARA-WRC-Sweden-/131954252259?hash=item1eb91619e3:g:siMAAOSwmfhX7Hrv

Thanks

Russell

What about the “pro” series of SCX like this one: https://www.132slotcar.us/store/product_info.php?cPath=22_47&products_id=2929

How much of an advantage is four wheel drive?

The “pro” series claims other benefits like aluminum wheels, lightweight body, and adjustability.  I wanted the Sainz car but could take one of the pro cars if needed.  Is this series of cars better?

Thanks

Russell,

Yes, the Xsara ran in 2005 and is legal.  I have exact SCX Pro car that I can bring to the track in a couple of weeks.  I’m camping this weekend for scouts otherwise I’d bring it on Saturday.  The 4 wheel drive system is a subject of debate.  The Pro cars are better than the regular cars as they have all the parts you’d be replacing in the standard car.

John sent this through email and I wanted it collected here:

Shawn,

You are the WRC series manager.  Apologies for this not being on the forum but I still have not mastered that beast.  Ordered a Scalextric Ford Fiesta WRC car because it has a Sloting.Plus chassis and vacuum interior available for it.  The Stobart Fiesta came new in the box with the windows blacked out.  The rules specify clear glass. Other than buying another car, can I just install the vacuum formed interior with the drivers and navigator painted and move forward?

Thanks,

John,

Sorry but the high impact cars are not allowed.  We determined that we wanted a realistic looking car so the clear glass and full interior are required.  You’ll need another body.

I see 1 Ninco 4 wheel drive car, but the Electric Dreams site might not be showing which ones are 4WD.  Is Ninco the only brand of 4WD.  Is there a more informative site with 1:32 rally car info?

Randy,

I wouldn’t get too focused on the 4WD thing.  In my experience, it really hasn’t helped or made a difference in the performance of the car.

[attachment file=”3d-chassis-polo-08.jpg”][caption id="attachment_10978" align="aligncenter" width="709"] sloting plus polo mods[/caption]

Good looking car Randy – are you trying to create a “dibs” list, have some tech questions, or just showing off how good your car will look after we landscape the track?

spyder out

B-GROUP RALLY CAR SETUP
I lucked out and placed 3rd in the first race, and no doubt next month when a few other members enter my overall standing will slip. However, here is the setup I used – JIC any of you can use it as a reference.

CHASSIS: SlottingPlus3D-I trimmed the chassis to fit *inside (not under) the body for freer float. The plastic they used is easily stripped by the front-axle grub screws (so once my front axle was adjusted I used locktite (nail polish also works) on the exposed threads of the top half of the upper grubs to prevent slipping.  The heads of my lower grubs are Not exposed so I did not Locktite them (that would have blocked the head-hole for the wrench)).
BODY-SCREWS: 6mm Slot.It steel phillips-head with smooth shanks.

BALLAST: One 7gm lead-slug behind the guide boss with 7g lead-slugs stuck to each side of the motor. Total weight appx 95g.

BODY: I had a rally lexan interior (bought last year from ProfessorMotor) complete with navigator – so I replaced the already light and flat interior of my AvantSlot Imprezza.
Lexan windows are legal, so I replaced the windsheild and rear-window with sheet plastic from a HO car’s box (similar to what is used on some Pioneer and Scaley boxes). Page-protector sheet plastic is also thin, so if you want some, there are some sheet protectors in our Magazine bins below the rally track across from the power supplies and other common pit equipment.

I liked the driver names and flag in the side-rear-windows, so I carefully used a hot-razor-knife to cut out the side-rear-windows (which are reqd to be retained). I sanded the rough edges left by the hot knife off the side-rear-windows and tacked them in with tiny dabs of ShoeGoo.

GUIDE: ScaleAuto Red deep-racing guide, with long-shaft (so I could trim it to fit the ‘tall’ boss/tongue on the 3D chassis. Rounded the tip of the ‘battleship’ flag-nose -so it stopped clicking in the trough of the 2nd dip in the main straightaway. Trimmed from the back so it was 17.5mm long from the nose. Most of flag is leading the guidepost/flagpole. I added two thin metal-spacers help it move smoothly across the bottom of the 3D-chassis.

FRONT WHEELS/TIRES: Slot.It 15.8×10 aluminum short-hubs. A slight hub or spacer is needed to prevent tire rub on the 3D chassis. Tires: Slot.It Zero-Grip condoms (17dx10w) Flying 0.5mm off a flat block.

REAR WHEELS/TIRES: SlotingPlus 15.8×10 aluminum no-hubs (with 0.50/440 grubs). Tires: Slot.It F30s. (I first tried N22s but they were “too grippy” and did not drift enough).

MOTOR: A spare Ninco in-line 26,000rpm @14.8V ‘NC10-Exceeder’. At 12v this motor is 21,000; I ran at 10volts so effective rpm was 17,493.
GEARS: 28z(yellow)/9z = 3.11 therefore Calc’ed rear-wheel RPM at 10v is 5,625. Ball-bearings are used for the rear axles.

DRIVING TECHNIQUE: A smooth squeeze, with no abrupt braking or fast-feathers. A short pulse on the straight – slight throttle on the humps, agressive in the hill-climb, steady moderate squeeze in all the switch-backs.