Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
My car with better Policar 22 trued tires, and softer braids is slow enough that it does not deslot. The front axle/tire grub screws are not completely set, but it is a pain because you have to remove the body to get to the upper grub screw holes. I have considered the once-upon-a-time “Spider” trick of drilling holes in the body to access the upper grubs.
I have put off disassembly for full race prep of my Jackie Stewart March due to the excessive heat in the club house. New aluminum wheels are coming, but I have trued the stock tires on sand paper flat on my run-in block. The times today on a cleaned yellow lane were consistently 4.8-4.9. The news paper will be reporting the car is having teething problems the first race. Not much gear noise and relatively good front tire/axle performance without the grub screws and truing. A break in the weather before the first race would be appreciated.
It is traditional in our club to replace push-on plastic wheels and knurled axles with solid axles and aluminum or mag wheels with grub screws. ARE WE STILL RESTRICTED TO PLASTIC PUSH-ON IN FRONT?
The specs say 3 different Policar or stock rear tires, OR any other tire that meets max width. What is the pre-race best idea, brand and stock number for non-Policar tires?
I am ordering parts Aug. 27-30th. I would like to order non-Policar tires now if they are the hot item.
( funny that the YouTube video guy did not true the tires )
Oct. 14, or Nov. 18 run a Demonstration Hillclimb using any 1:32 car that can run the rally track without scraping. 10 laps on rally track and 20 on big track for a total time. We could decide this quick a race would allow multi-car team for a member.
Ideally we would get everything from Edwardian to modern F1, including the famous old ones with double narrow rear tires and cars like the long lineage of Porsche Berg Spiders. There would not be any competition classes, everything would be its own class. The cars do not need to be any car class we have run in competition. Radical Pikes Peak car anyone?
We would start a forum for Demonstration Hillclimb and post each person’s choice that they have tested as clearing the rally track. Then hopefully, not duplicate models, but no restrictions if we do. We might find a car we would like to run in future series, but not necessarily the objective.
A regularity race we ran at Akron Sports Car Club on the Barberton Speedway oval in the snowy/icy winter was a warmup lap, a timed lap and second timed lap. The winner was the driver with the most identical, precise lap times, over or under. Ties were broken by the fastest of the ties. Yes there were ties.
I love those tires with real tread pattern, I hope they run about the same as slicks that are so not prototypical.
I would really like to try a race with the race consisting of some laps on each track without re-tuning between laps on the tracks. what would work and what might work is the objective and we could run the existing cars from either a rally or big track series. (As long as the 917’s don’t bottom out on the rally track. :o!
Trying to debug the guide jamming problem and discovered the wires were grabbing the front wheel axle holders. I tied the wires together close to the front, and the wires are behaving, as is the car. I also changed to the deep wood guide which is short tailed already. No noticeable difference until I fixed the wire binding problem. I am hearing some thumping on the crossover joint.
Looking at the cars as a whole I believe this was not run using rally cars because during the recent event someone pointed out my Alfa and other cars lacked navigators. Mine is a model of a SCCA track car, as are others. We should have called this a hill climb rather than rally. Oh well.
Don’t remove the spark trail generator. It will reduce the realism of the car as it accelerates and the rear squats. (Of course this is not from the official class manager)
Thanks for putting this on the forum for those of us who have not tried to setup our car yet.
UN BOX BOX BOX! (with a German accent)
I finally tried the BMW 91 Kleber Le Mans on my power strip and it was noisy. After a few hours I stopped it and later opened it up. On the track it was a 5.5 second mess. The front axle assemblies were fully tight, so I loosened them and lubed the bearing surfaces. They are cambered axle holders. Down to 4.5 seconds and with some practice 4.3. I am tempted to slap a BMW sticker on the chassis and run in the prototype class of Le Mans. The sedan is slowing it down, specifically where the front tires rub the fenders.
The Lexan rattles so I dabbed some Shoo Goo on the edges and that helped.
For some reason other than lead trigger finger it de-slots randomly in the button turn blue lane. Maybe I am driving randomly trying to find the braking point and intensity. Or is it torquing itself out of the turn? The spring loaded guide might be “wrong”. No weight added. No front auxiliary driving lights added. HMMMMMM.
I practiced on the rally track last Thursday during the day. I had a noisy car that got quiet without the body, and noisy with the body. It was the loose Lexan interior picking up and amplifying every vibration. Cured that with strategic dots of Shoo Goo. Ran some more rally track laps and could hear a “click” twice on the long straight. (My front tires are not excessively trued.) One click where the spring loaded guide compresses a the first valley-to-uphill transition, and once after the hump on the next valley-to-uphill transition. Testing showed the guide tapping the chassis. No dragging or scraping the track.
On the rally track the speed is less, so the Lexan vibrates much less, but was still noticeable. Without the timer running I have no idea how well it was running, but my 914/6 seemed faster immediately after the RevoSlot runs.
I agree with the maintenance of the cars. Wear and tear should be tolerated. I have not checked to see if parts are even available if broken, not just falling off. We should take special care to check cars and track for parts after heats. Some of our cars, maybe even group C, have soft plastic wings and other parts in a replacement kit. My car has clipped the walls and collided. but is intact as far as I can tell.
