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Anyone have hints to getting the rear wheels off the axles? A couple of pliers rotating opposite directions only scratched up the wheel inner surface and neither wheel moved on the axle. I’ve got oil in the screw holes hoping for some capillary action to help with release, but geez…I couldn’t get them off to true the tires. Luckily, I have another week before I need to get that done.
I was pondering this comment from Marty yesterday as I was setting up my car:
“As a point of reference, I typically run all of my well handling cars with a calculated wheel RPM of 9,100 to 9,400.”
Would you be willing to say what that 9100-9400 is in reference-to? Is this the wheel revolution at the max revs of the motor or some other point?
I wouldn’t blame you for saying one must figure this out for oneself. 🙂
David – if the motor orientation is open, then we’ll want to change this rule:
“Inline s-can motor orientation mandatory”
Is the list of cars a suggestion, or the limit? There are other models available in the Group 5 class from Sideways (like the Escort and Stratos).
Agree here with David – running at 12 was almost sleep-inducing the car was so compliant, and that was with old, hard tires. 12.5 was a bit more interesting and I was able to de-slot if I wasn’t paying attention. 12.6 we didn’t do, but the bottom line is that 12 is what I’d set things at for a kid who is just starting-out.
Anyone have the tire number for “Stock Revo Slot Tires?” Need to put in an order since I’m pretty sure I ran old slot-it 30’s on that car for the rally. No clue where my stock tires ended up.
So, what is the status of these rules? I have heard that they are a placeholder and that were allowed to do lots more than in these rules. I’m working on my rear wheels and checked the rules to be surprised by, “Only the stock Slot.it short hub aluminum 15.8 x 8.2 wheels allowed on the rear,” since I was under the impression this was open along with any tire choice (the rules say Slot.it only). Can we get this stuff clarified so I can get my car completed, please. 🙂
Update to the rules to be more clear. The guide rule has now been updated to:
- Must be a genuine Policar guide as supplied with the car.
This was to better align the rule to the intentions of the original rule – that the guide must be original but modifications to the guide is allowed.
To Randy’s Question.
The rules specify for the front:
- Front wheels must be original that came with the car.
- Front track width must remain standard.
- Front tires must be part PPT1220C1.
- Front tyres may be glued and trued.
I should be back into the mix in a couple more weeks when my company’s busy season takes a nose-dive. I hope to make the first F1 events, but we’ll see what happens since I’m still traveling heavily through the end of the month – that’s why Marc and I are a co-manager of the series. All the testing I had hoped to do has gone completely out the window and the parts I ordered are sitting quietly here on a shelf. Ugh.
1) New Policar Vintage F1 cars listed at Pendle:
- Ferrari 126 C2 No.27 Gilles Villeneuve – NOT ELIGIBLE (sorry)
- Lotus 72E No.6 Monza GP 1971 Herbert Muller – ELIGIBLE
2) I have been doing a lot of testing of the Lotus 72E, modified to use the required rear wheels and rear width and find it a wonderful thing to drive. I have already broken-off one of the “brakes” by just fitting the body to the car. Super glue to get it repositioned and some shoe goo after it set was my fix. Just keep gluing them back together, folks. The stock wires broke off at the guide after about 200 laps. But man, it is just very smooth and fun. Can’t wait!
Driver: Stab’nSteer
Car and Number: Fiat 131 #1
Class: Over 8mm
RTR Manufacturer: SCX Body
Stock? Yes-ish
Somewhat kitbash. The chassis is 3d printed, sourced from somewhere on the Internet since I bought the body-only on eBay. The motor is still up in the air since I haven’t finished testing options at this time, but it is a long-can, inline setup using Slot.it wheels, axles and bushings at the rear. The front is almost certainly Slot.it wheels and axles, too – but I simply grabbed them from my boxes, checked to see if they fit, and they did. So no telling where they were really sourced from. At the moment, there are Slot.it F30’s on the rear. I’m terrible at recording where I find stuff, but the guide is supplied by an un-remembered slot car manufacturer and it allows for many different lengths. Currently, I’ve got it pretty small, but haven’t actually measured it – if I had to guess (since I don’t have the car with me right now) it is between 4-5 cm. Since my tests on this recent Test N’ Tune evening were very promising, I should likely start creating some solid notes about the thing. I am using some Pendle guide wire. Currently, the car is set up to run the body’s built-in LED lighting setup. We’ll see if I retain that. Since I bought the body by itself, I had to supply body screws – I’m using some aluminum 5mm? screws from Pendle with which I have become enamored since they use a hex driver.
ALERT. Rally track needs repair. A braid has disconnected at the power post directly in front of the driver station, inside lane.
That sounds good, Marty. The fit and finish of these critters, especially with the fiddly bits on the back, is turning out to be far from consistent. For all – In general, try re-fitting any poorly fitted parts instead of modifying, but barring that, there will be flexibility in policing this. We care a lot about rubber on the road and width but will be reasonable toward modifications to allow the car to run. We won’t be too reasonable with modifications that just make your life easier (like removing the fiddly bits).
Policar has teased a couple new models, available for pre-order from Pendle:
Lotus 72E No.6 Monza GP 1971
BRM P160 No.17 1st Monaco 1972
As of this writing, IF these show up by the 4th quarter, they will be allowed following the current rules.
