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So, what is the status of these rules? I have heard that they are a placeholder and that were allowed to do lots more than in these rules. I’m working on my rear wheels and checked the rules to be surprised by, “Only the stock Slot.it short hub aluminum 15.8 x 8.2 wheels allowed on the rear,” since I was under the impression this was open along with any tire choice (the rules say Slot.it only). Can we get this stuff clarified so I can get my car completed, please. 🙂
Update to the rules to be more clear. The guide rule has now been updated to:
- Must be a genuine Policar guide as supplied with the car.
This was to better align the rule to the intentions of the original rule – that the guide must be original but modifications to the guide is allowed.
To Randy’s Question.
The rules specify for the front:
- Front wheels must be original that came with the car.
- Front track width must remain standard.
- Front tires must be part PPT1220C1.
- Front tyres may be glued and trued.
I should be back into the mix in a couple more weeks when my company’s busy season takes a nose-dive. I hope to make the first F1 events, but we’ll see what happens since I’m still traveling heavily through the end of the month – that’s why Marc and I are a co-manager of the series. All the testing I had hoped to do has gone completely out the window and the parts I ordered are sitting quietly here on a shelf. Ugh.
1) New Policar Vintage F1 cars listed at Pendle:
- Ferrari 126 C2 No.27 Gilles Villeneuve – NOT ELIGIBLE (sorry)
- Lotus 72E No.6 Monza GP 1971 Herbert Muller – ELIGIBLE
2) I have been doing a lot of testing of the Lotus 72E, modified to use the required rear wheels and rear width and find it a wonderful thing to drive. I have already broken-off one of the “brakes” by just fitting the body to the car. Super glue to get it repositioned and some shoe goo after it set was my fix. Just keep gluing them back together, folks. The stock wires broke off at the guide after about 200 laps. But man, it is just very smooth and fun. Can’t wait!
Driver: Stab’nSteer
Car and Number: Fiat 131 #1
Class: Over 8mm
RTR Manufacturer: SCX Body
Stock? Yes-ish
Somewhat kitbash. The chassis is 3d printed, sourced from somewhere on the Internet since I bought the body-only on eBay. The motor is still up in the air since I haven’t finished testing options at this time, but it is a long-can, inline setup using Slot.it wheels, axles and bushings at the rear. The front is almost certainly Slot.it wheels and axles, too – but I simply grabbed them from my boxes, checked to see if they fit, and they did. So no telling where they were really sourced from. At the moment, there are Slot.it F30’s on the rear. I’m terrible at recording where I find stuff, but the guide is supplied by an un-remembered slot car manufacturer and it allows for many different lengths. Currently, I’ve got it pretty small, but haven’t actually measured it – if I had to guess (since I don’t have the car with me right now) it is between 4-5 cm. Since my tests on this recent Test N’ Tune evening were very promising, I should likely start creating some solid notes about the thing. I am using some Pendle guide wire. Currently, the car is set up to run the body’s built-in LED lighting setup. We’ll see if I retain that. Since I bought the body by itself, I had to supply body screws – I’m using some aluminum 5mm? screws from Pendle with which I have become enamored since they use a hex driver.
ALERT. Rally track needs repair. A braid has disconnected at the power post directly in front of the driver station, inside lane.
That sounds good, Marty. The fit and finish of these critters, especially with the fiddly bits on the back, is turning out to be far from consistent. For all – In general, try re-fitting any poorly fitted parts instead of modifying, but barring that, there will be flexibility in policing this. We care a lot about rubber on the road and width but will be reasonable toward modifications to allow the car to run. We won’t be too reasonable with modifications that just make your life easier (like removing the fiddly bits).
Policar has teased a couple new models, available for pre-order from Pendle:
Lotus 72E No.6 Monza GP 1971
BRM P160 No.17 1st Monaco 1972
As of this writing, IF these show up by the 4th quarter, they will be allowed following the current rules.
First pass at the rules. They won’t change a ton from here, but wanted to show the group what we’ve come up with and let you hash-out what you see fit to hash out. Marc and I will be reasonably receptive…to a point. 🙂
Eligible Cars.
- Any of the current range of Policar GP cars listed on this page, with the exception of the monposto cars: https://www.policar.it/formula-1/
1972 Ferrari 312 B2
1970 Lotus 72, 72E, 72D
1970, 1971 March 701
1971 BRM P160 - 80’s Ferrari models coming available currently are not eligible for inclusion. In the event other 70’s models appear between now and the series, they will be considered on a case by case basis.
Liveries.
- Cars may race in the original Policar liveries or may be repainted if desired. While real 70’s liveries are desired, all one has to do is look at F1 in the 70’s to come across Lord Hesketh’s cars…so paint ’em as you like ’em.
Body shell
- Must be original Policar and be as complete as possible.
Front and Rear wings, glass and driver head must be securely attached to the car at the start of every race. - All parts shipped with the car will be required at the beginning of the race season. Minor modifications of the parts can be performed to deal with poor fit. If parts break during the season, the general expectation is that the parts will be repaired – within reason. Requests to exclude a part from a car during the season due to terminal breakage must be brought to the series managers and a decision will be made.
- Parts may be glued in place as desired.
- Body screws are open.
Chassis & Motor pod.
- All cars must use a genuine Policar F1 motor mount and gear box assembly. Part numbers PC-H01, PC-H01as, PC-H03, PC-H03as.
- MINOR modifications are permitted to these mounts to make them fit. What constitutes “minor” is up to the judgment of the series managers so ask before you begin modifying.
- Chassis and body screws may be loose or removed as desired.
- Grub screws may be fitted in the holes provided at the front of the chassis to set the front axle height.
Motor
- All cars must be powered by Policar PMX01 25000 RPM motor.
Gears & Rear Axle
- All cars must use genuine Policar gears & rear axle. The optional Policar rear axle ratios are permitted.
Wheels & Tyres
- Front wheels must be original that came with the car.
- Front track width must remain standard.
- Front tires must be part PPT1220C1.
- Front tyres may be glued and trued.
- Rear wheels must be the plastic originals or the Policar aluminium replacement parts no PWH1234-AL or PW16011724A. Note that Lotus 72E and 72D will be required to change their rear wheel and tire type.
- All wheels must have inserts that match on all 4 corners.
- Overall width of rear, measured over the rear wheels and tyres (bulge to bulge on mounted tire) must not exceed 62mm.
- Rear tyres may be one of these Policar options (PPT1310C1, PPT1219C1 PPT1219F22) OR any other tire that matches the maximum width measurement for the tires above (measurement method and size being verified). Measurement will be taken from mounted tire, bulge to bulge.
- Rear tyres may be glued, trued and chamfered if desired.
- PROHIBITED: Traction compounds. Glazing of front tires with Nail Polish or Super-Glue/CA
Guide
- Must be a genuine Policar guide to the same specification as supplied with the car.
- Braids & Lead Wire are free choice.
Additional Weight
- Weight may be added inside the car only.
- No weight will be allowed underneath the chassis and any added weight must not be visible outside the car.
Track Power
- Currently under consideration. Suggest 11 volts.
For all – Myself and Mark are narrowing down the expectations for the rules and I hope to have a draft by the end of this week. The main plan will be to limit the overall rear track of the cars to a specific caliper measurement (tire bump to tire bump) and the width of the tire will also be specified (but there will not be a spec tire). This should allow the use of any of the cars linked in Marty’s post above and allow for creative tire options.
I lament the new Ferrari 126 is not legal because it is just too cool. Not to mention it is SOOO darn wide that it would be impossible to get it to fit within the rules. That thing is about as wide as a 1/24 scale car!
All the detailed, fragile bits on these cars are going to be an issue. There is a huge array of detail to these cars which makes it very difficult to give a blanket statement about what must be fitted that will work for every car as some are very detailed and others less-so. Stuff is going to break and the fiddly rear sway bars and such are a pain to maintain. I’m open to suggestions, but I’m leaning toward only requiring the in-tact one-piece monocoque, wings, driver head, and glass to be in place and everything else is up to you whether you wish to maintain it. Thoughts?
Personally, the 40 is a real mental test…30 would just not be the same. And we’d not really be saving all that much time.
Randy Wrote:
David and Erik, did you run the Policar f1’s with the plastic wheels? Did you true them? Do you expect to use the correct size aluminum wheels to be able to true the tires? Erik, what brand tire truer do you have? What volts were you running the cars?
Answers:
Yes – I used the stock plastic wheels on non-trued tires. I did purchase the aluminum wheels and replacement F22 tires for the car, but have not done anything with them yet. My tire truer is a Tire Razor – haven’t tried putting the wheels/tires on it…but I think it will work. We were running the cars at 12v.
