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NSR RALLY PRACTICE
This Sat (6/16) after Thunderslot #6 //Road track will most likely be used for ScaleAuto test-and-tune.
Next week (6/23) after ScaleAuto #1 //I need someone to open the ARK, start the PC, SCTimer; I will be in Florida racing alligators and mullet
6/30 – Noon – 4-ish
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POWER TUNING
These cars are not as Top-heavy as the 2017 WRCs, so they corner well without as much weight. But – the lighter weight not only (+) makes them drift well with the SuperGrips, it (-) makes them very sensitive to the higher torque motors (e.g. hopping during acceleration out of a turn).
Experimentation with -lower voltages, or -lower RPM/lower torque motors may be key (Shark-20s from the 917 series or a King-17 may be worth testing).GUIDE
The Rally specific guides have a long shaft, so the motor-wires can act like a weak spring in addition to a sprung drop-arm. If you don’t like the slop from the longer shaft, the out-of-the-box pop-in and screw-in – short-shaft- guides (from our past NSR series) seem to be the same dimensions. Please report on your experiences with the guides and drop-arms."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseAs per Shawn’s update this weekend – Tom plans to name the track/business ‘Capitol Slot Cars’ or something similar. Lets plan to show him some support and get the other locals “primed” by hosting an ad-hoc race there some Sat or Sunday afternoon during his Grand Opening period.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseIt looks like a dedicated monitor, but is actually a TV, so air-broadcasts can be viewed (such as for a race on a major network) . Control buttons are on the top of the screen (no remote). The left most button is Power (about 4 inches from the left edge) and the next two are Volume Up/Down.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseTHANKS to Marty for the ad-hoc ScaleAuto tuning-tricks session he held last Sat June 9 regarding the “float plate” and improving front axle bearing smoothness! Gathered round with rapt attention were Randy, John, Dave, Steve and Mark.
ALSO – thanks in advance to Alex for crafting a CNC template for scrutineering the a) F&R tracks and b) tire-outside diameters (plus thx to Marty for leaving his MRRC clearance plate setup-block at the track).** ScaleAuto-#1 is June 23 so we have two short weeks to tune and practice; bring your cars this Sat after the final Thunderslot race! p.s. we will also have the ARK opened up for Rally practice, (also on 6/30 as planned, and on 6/23 if there is enough interest).
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseI went by and Tom was in Houston at a paintball tourney. His wife said she believed they got some of the walls in. The 5-ton(?) AC unit that was on the cargo box is no longer there so I assume he has that in progress of installation.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseMarty-I had seen your undetailed FB pictures but just found this thread in our forum. Looks like a fantastic place and I am extremely jealous you had time there – too bad you were not able to stay longer : (
Question: I saw their Slot.It banner – were they running any 1/32s when you were there?
p.s. cute dog and he obviously bonded with Jensen!"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseMarty-I was only recognizing that out of the people who practiced last week that you -as expected- set the *temporary* bar for us to reach – seeing how it was the first official practice with a new platform, largely untested en masse on our track. You are correct that compared to your 6.702 and many other peoples 6.8s that 6.9 is pedestrian. I am looking forward to your potential 6.5s- that will be exciting!
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseRALLY PRACTICE NOTES
Marty posted some impressive 6.9s so we have a goal to work towards! John and Randy posted at least some 7.1s and a few 7.0s? I got into the 7.2s after dropping to the 8-9volt range.
The long-cans are as expected, very hot at any voltage above 10v and demand lots of finesse on the trigger to prevent hopping from the NSR Supergrips (which seem to have good drift in the corners) and flying (literally) in the straight. You may want to experiment with short cans (Shark-20, -22) if you have the pods for them. The square pods (for short-cans) from some of the stock CLIOs may be on par with the triangle pods since handling at low speed is paramount in this series.
The stock guide does not seem to need any trimming. Please report your experience with using the drop-arm “sprung”, or in “fixed” mode (screwed down). Experimenting with front wheel flying height is also needed to prevent both pop-out and excessive wear of the tape.
These cars are super smooth much of the time and don’t seem to need the weight that last years rally platform seemed to favor.
The tape looks in good shape – no lifts or (new) rips were obvious.
** Be very careful with the locks on Cover-1, they are tight and finicky. The key info on the dog-tag is Reverse of reality.
The tarp was put onto the cover to prevent the debris we found on Thurs that had fallen through the joints where the cover-panels meet. I am leaving the extension cord plugged in as often as possible to keep the laptop charged. The SC Timer is being cleared and closed and Windows shut down to reduce battery drainage and more importantly cut down heat from the CPU running."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseMarty, Shawn and All, in reply and reference to 12293, 12292, 12290, 12281, 12279, 12225-Q1
SG_Q1 12293: “What are you trying to accomplish here?”
1) I am simply trying to encourage an open approach for senior members who posses knowledge and experience that some others may not have, to share that knowledge without reservation. This *should be the spirit of the club – to foster open and non-threatening exchange of information among club members.
2) Further, by example we should support and *train New Series Managers to be prepared to clearly explain the factual, technical rational that resulted in the decision to make the stipulations of the spec.
Naturally I am not expecting the research to the stated in the rules themselves, but if questions are raised, answers should be provided openly (on the forum) in a friendly manner. Further, if the series has started and no questions were raised prior to the start, the SM can re-iterate that people had X weeks to ask questions.
Replies with no details, justified by the rationale of “It is illegal… it’s the rules… I am wasting my time answering your questions” sounds like a parent saying “because I said so”, rather than a knowledgeable member helping other members.SG_Q2: “What are you trying to learn?”
1. First, I was Not asking how to add the illegal parts to the SC8000 chassis and second I was Not Challenging the rule.
2. My intent was fairly simple – 12279 was intended to understand why a racer could not spend $75 making their SC8000 chassis equal to a $150-180 car with the SC8003; which was introduced to the club in [post 11993, March 12] with statements such as ‘the new chassis (SC8003) far out performed the old one’ …’the adjustable front axle helps keep the rear tires flat’. As I said in 12290 “I am simply trying to help All of us to be enlightened”.
3. Since I have two SC8000 cars I was wondering (as I assume other members did) (a) should I invest another $150-180 in a SC8003 car to be *Equal with others who bought SC8003 cars, and (b) since cost is stated as a concern, what is the clear technical reason why a racer is not allowed to simply spend $75-80 on an upgrade kit, rather then buying an SC8003 car just to be on equal footing.FINALLY
1. I have NO MORE QUESTIONS – I finally got them answered, including my own research that the chassis are so Significantly different that trying to upgrade the steel chassis to match the aluminum chassis and all the other component changes may result in a frankenstein that takes forever to tune – and may never be as good as either the OEM SC8000 or SC8003.
2. More importantly – Shawn – I THANK YOU for your reveal in 12293 that after testing both chassis, you saw no significant advantage in either chassis, (not previously stated in this thread).
3. I am sticking with my SC8000s.
4. All – I would Never have raised any questions if everything was obvious. Re-stating rules and re-iterating that they are unambiguous does Not answer the fundamental question of “what is the Reason behind the rules”. More effort was spent questioning my motives and telling me I should not ask any questions than actually answering the questions – so that Future Series Managers can Learn how they should research cars, parts and make decisions (and answer questions :O )"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseTIRE ISSUES
One of my new MJK-4118 tires ripped 1/32in upon mounting. I gambled and proceeded to truing; no more rips occurred but an internal rip and molding faults appeared after the sheen of the urethane was removed by the truing; I proceeded to practice.After appx 20 laps a new 1/16in rip appeared, while the original rip remained the same size, but the tire remained mounted. Since I did not want the tire to fly off and my car to damage someone else’s car I stopped.
I will update this forum if any issues occur after mounting a replacement (the other tire appears to not have any issues) – e.g. other rips or molding defects in the new tire."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseHints for whitekit builders: http://austinslotcarclub.com/forums/topic/scaleauto-124-white-kit-building-tips/
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseOn Sat May 26 I draped the Ark with the tarp. (On Thurs there was noticeable drop-through from the gaps between the covers.) Next step is we need bungees and mounting holes or hole-bolts.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseClarification to 12298, previously I was regularly getting 3.8s that eventually creeped up to 3.9s (but the handling was superb) as the tires wore down. With the fine-tuned front-end setup the 3.8s were significantly more frequent (with reliable handling) on a range of worn rear tire sizes.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseTIRE WARNING – see the *main ScaleAuto GT thread http://austinslotcarclub.com/forums/topic/q3-scaleauto-series-discussion/page/2/#post-12326
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose
