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Reason prevails!
Are Ninco N80754 PRORACE EVO 3 Wheels 17.4 x 10.2mm hubless with realistic spokes allowed?"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseRUSS – can you make a few adapters for your track? I believe it’s TYCO? Or can we patch in some binding posts (audio plates for home theatre will work) so we can clip on our AFX controllers and power?
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseFor 2019
CanAm-McLaren [Spec]-I’ve got a virgin M8D (from Kings) I’m itching to use!
Rally – Targa Florio 1970 [Open], or Porsche 908 [Spec]
LeMans [Open]-or- Slot.It DTM [Spec] – both sound fun.
1/24 – BRM TransAm; (or if we do 1/32 TA, BRM 917/F512)
Econo-F1 – Scaley Hi-Impact Formula with FF motor upgrade; or PoliCar – PCAR02 Lotus 72B
1/32 TransAm [Open]- Lets be realistic (but not historically scale-correct) this time and allow F30s and 3D-Chassis; don’t waste time on Dawgs (don’t list 15 cars, when only 3 are actually competitive)For 2020+
ScaleAuto 1/24 GT – Would prefer saving SAs for races in Pflugerville.
Revo and ThunderSlot – both great series, but maybe wait until more bodies are available and tested. 2020 or 2021 perhaps (e.g. we can buy them in 2019 but race in 2020)
Group-V – we’ve ran at least twice; perhaps give some one-time series a chance to re-cycle?*Reminder* (a) you do not need to list GP-C (b) let’s avoid ShotGunning every single series we have ever done, or (c) or shotgun a dozen new cars and brands -without leaving any room for recycling series and cars we have *already* spent lots of Time and Money tuning. (d) Rather than repeat 2018 series, lets consider recycling a race from 2016 or earlier. We had fun this year – but let’s consider back-logging the brand/models from 2018 to reruns in 2020+.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose1. The white fridge is working. Both fridges are stocked with sodas and LoneStar (thanks TA!)
2. The Rally Power Supply has been fixed, replaced the rocker switch.
3. I have finished an Adjustable Voltage Regulator module as proposed by Ary. Testing results will follow.
4. The extension cord on the red-reel has had its plugs/connectors re-done to remove the slop of exposed wire – less danger of the wires breaking and some shocking consequences.
5. The big yellow extension cord has been re-routed behind the TV-PC and coiled near the white track refer for convenience.
6. Microphones are in a box under the TV. Kein M. and I will experiment with position to get the best general sound. Winning!
** Some of you have copied the Google Docs calendar to your own Google calendar – please REFRESH the copy to make sure your alerts match what is actually scheduled. Some members are seeing the ‘old’ schedule. I have verified that the root Google Calendar is up to date (thanks Kein M.)"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseDaaaahhhhmmm … thats a few years worth Marty! Thanks – lots to think about : )
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseLook at the Cars Available = a) find what models are available from b) what vendors and c) what are the price ranges. Naturally this applies to any allowed parts upgrades, esp. tires.
Run It First = we need you to be able to speak to your actual experience running and tuning the car. It would Also be great if you let a few other members try out the car(s).
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseThe Rally Track power supply died on Friday; it appeared to be the power switch which I tested and it was not making contact in any position. I have a replacement switch and will bring the power supply back either Thurs or Sat.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose1/24 F1 Chassis. A version of the 1/24 F1 chassis, less motor, is available from Professor Motor if you hunt hard enough. Yep still $$$ at $145usd w/o body or motor.
1/32 F1 AllSlot replacement chassis. $15
MB Slots offers a fibreglass chassis kit that uses a Slot.It inline pod.
https://www.professormotor.com/product-p/mb13500.htm
I bought one and can let you see it at practice. Slotting Plus also markets a Stainless steel and companion Aluminum chassis for the AllSlot; they are appx $15 and appear robust; Yes I know Ary does not favor them but they -or the MB Slot chassis- may be future alternatives to the SS&CF Spanish chassis we got in 2016 (which is now out of print and hard to replace).
http://www.professormotor.com/product-p/sp500001.htm
http://www.professormotor.com/product-p/sp500002.htm"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseAry – in the BMW M6 GTLM, the chassis wells for the front body screws bulge into the wheel well, these may interfere with Slot.It wheels – when trying to fit them into the wheel-well so the tire is not visible outside the fenders/wells.
Can we flatten the round part of the screw-well that protrudes into the wheel-well? It’s basically a minor filing operation with a emory board (no major loss of chassis material and hence weight)."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseBe careful you don’t weaken those rotors too much – the extra traction from your BFGoodrich tires may warp them from too much heat 😉 p.s. I was posting for the public not u since u already saw his message!
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseAs per Marty’s email, carefully thin the insert (using light sandpaper strokes from the axle side), being careful not to eat into the rotor. Also you can carefully sand by hand *spots (3 sides) of the insert’s Rim until it slides in with a tight fit. And sometimes you just gotta use a little drop of ShoeGoo on either the axle side or the rim.// sorry Marty I lost your email or I would have posted it verbatim – please enjoy your trip to Cleveland. There are some great bars in the “docks” area; you can find some real down to earth rock-an-roll in Cleveland!
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseIMPORTANT RULE UPDATES OR CLARIFICATIONS
1. Guide – ANY NSR guide is allowed they are all about the same. DO NOT TRIM the blade to 7.5MM length – that was a TYPO – sorry!! the stock length of 17.5mm works Fine.
Drop-arm – to-date there does not seem to be an obvious advantage between Sprung, Firm, Floppy.
2. Wheels – Stock out of the box wheels are allowed Front-NSR5003 (17x8mm), Rear-NSR5004(17x10mm) Measured at the rim they may be 16mm dia. Just use what came with the car!
3. Tires – Supergrips seem best, you need some drift. Make sure your tires are camphered/rounded on the shoulder. To help drift we are ‘cleaning’ the track only by running; a very light dust seems to be Ok to allow drift. You will need to experiment with your brake setting, too heavy will make you chatter in the curves and lose at least a hundredth as compared to coasting thru.4. Duration – just like WTC – 40laps, no yellow lights (unless a major major problem has occurred)
4. Float – as on the road track, a loose pod seems best; plus moderately loose body screws. Tape your pod screws since they are so short and the enhanced vibration of the rally course will make them drop quickly.
5. Spur – even on the stock spur gears you may get some friction from an almost undetectable rub against the chassis-a very thin washer between the spur Shank and the Oilite bush will cure the rub. Inline gears are open-choice (e.g. Slot.It allowed). AW and SW must be NSR.
6. Baseline times: These are quicker than WTC – average times at first will be 6.9-7.1, bad > 7.3
6.6-6.8 are currently “very good” – Best times in practice to-date have been 6.4."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseFANTASTIC TOM! You have a whole crew here who can’t wait to try your tracks out!
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseUNSPRUNG ‘FLOPPY’ DROP-ARM TEST RESULTS
— 2-3gm -in the “V” behind the guide boss hole- will help keep the guide seated in the slot.
— The long-shaft may bind in the pinch-turn in the valley, try a short-shaft guide (pop-in or screw)
— You may also want to experiment with having the wires under or over the bridge."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseRALLY DROP ARMS
If you are using the OEM CLIO-R small-can chassis, with a rectangular pod, obviously you dont have a triangular pod or drop arm. Use any NSR ‘regular’ short-shaft guide (pop-in or screw-on) and up to a 1mm spacer to take out the rocking/slop. Good luck on adjusting axle height : (Below are the major options for setup of the NSR drop arms.
1. FIXED
If you have an OEM or ugrade chassis with triangular pod and drop-arm, again use a short-shaft guide. Use an NSR small machine screw (the body and pod screws are too short) without the spring, to keep the drop-arm firm. Be careful to Not over-tighten and hence warp the the arm’s nose.2. SPRUNG
The drop-arm machine screw binds on the on bridge over the guide. To reduce this friction, in the bridge very carefully widen the oblong hole where the arm fixing screw goes through. Widen at the back (towards the motor) of the hole with an Exacto or a small bit in a pin vise. Be slow and careful, there is not much meat in that area.
Using the long machine screw from the front axle adjusting “kit” that Randy has identified; place a spring over the screw and set the spring in the arms cup around the nut area for the screw. Do not glue the spring in – you can accidently glue the arm screw or bind the spring.
You can use the long-shaft rally guide, which will give you more spring from the motor wires. If the slop of the long shaft causes you handling problems, you can use the short-shafts3. FLOP
As illustrated in the NSR catalog, the drop arm can be free and un-sprung, using the motor wires as a spring. This requires slightly longer than normal amount of motor wire past the front axle. Generally this configuration is shown with the long-shaft rally guide, letting it float in the guide-boss/tongue, without a spring on either the drop-arm or the shaft (dont put a spring on the shaft). There is nothing prohibiting you from using any of the short-shaft guides.
** I personally do not have any testing results on how any of the above configurations perform relative to the others. Any comments from testing are welcome!
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose
