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Concors:
— Some small brass eyelets (a size smaller than we use for 1/32 guide motor wires) make great ‘nostrils’ in the Vipers air scoop where racing versions have pipes feeding the airfilter. To emphasize them I painted the scoop cutout a bright red.
— The baffles for the side air vents (for the front wheel wells) DO NOT fit the studs in the body. I had to cut the studs down and use a notch in the bottom of the shell (which did fit correctly) to snap in the baffles. BTW – out of the parts bag these baffles look at first like splitters but there is no obvious place to fit them on the nose of the car.Rear Axle Spacers.
The stock wheels – made for rubber tires fit – but the sponge wheels are a different dimension and dont. Correct the spacing as follows:
1. Build right/passenger/nondrive side with (a) 2x long spacers (b) either an 1/16in plastic washer/spacer or 2-3 metal spacers.
2. Build left/spur side with (a) 1x short spacer. (Alternately: The spur spacer does not seem to be really needed and there are no obvious rules prohibiting it from being removed/left off.)
3. Use motor mounts to adjust gear lash. Dont use axle or gear spacers.Guide spacers.
— Front tires need to touch track, but the blade needs to be as deep as can be (its not as deep as some other wood guides).
The 1/24s seem to easily ‘porpise’ out of the slot in some wavy parts of the track (hairpin and coming out of turn-1).
— Use some spacers to drive the blade down, so that the front tires just barely touch.
— To prevent the nut from working loose, put some LokTite on the guide threads and let it dry before adding nut. Put one thin spacer on top as a washer to improve movement. Lube it lightly.
— Get advice from Marty or Russ.
— The motor wires are a weird stiffness, its hard to get them to consistently auto-center the guide. I moved the shrinktape back to the motor so the wires were looser up near the guide."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseSteve I had to use one short axle spacer, then used a white nylon spacer 1/16 to get the wheel inside the drive side wheel well.
I guess since the spur has a robust collar on it you are not going to see any slop without the spacer. Rules-wise I dont think they prohibit removing the spacers on the spur side."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseYou have to sand the rear inserts – they are made to fit the stock wheels for the rubber tires – the sponge wheels are apparently just slightly smaller in diameter. The hub on the back of the insert is ok – its the edge that needs sanding. Also – you may need to sand the brake calipers a little because they press against the inside of the wheel and make the brake disk cocked, and hence prevent the insert from seating itself fully.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseThe completed Viper body, with chassis attachment hardware plus lexan cockpit & glass weighs 60gm, the max allowable. The cockpit and glass required lots of tedious trimming to fit, and several pieces of strapping tape to attach to the shell. The wing and all clear and photoetched parts were reinforced – not excessively – with glue to prevent damage during race impacts.
The completed body and chassis, with wheel inserts and all hardware, weighs 211gm, comfortably under the 215 max.Concors details:
— The rear wheel inserts need to be trimmed on the edge/circumference or else they stick out 1/32 from the wheels for the sponge tires, making them illegal if viewed from above. It is a very tedious process to sand them carefully until they fit, then you may need to touch up the paint removed during the sanding process. The disk brakes look good – I painted the calipers bright red to mimic Brembos, altho the modeled versions do not appear as fat as the real ones. I painted the disks silver but they could be painted grey to resemble carbon disks.
— The exhaust ports are best left without the glued in “tips”, the eliptical divot in the body has a hole that can be reemed out slightly to resemble the actual exhaust exit in the 1:1 car. The bottom of the photoetched parts sheet has two perfectly sized rectangular pieces that were glued with CA following the exhausts to mimic the backfire sheilds on the 1:1 car. The photoetchs are in thin stainless steel which was tough to cut – I used some diagonal pliers to cut out the rough pieces and used a file and metal sandpaper to round the edges. Some gray paint dabbed in a tapering pattern mimics the ash and carbon that covers the real guards after a race.
— The kit comes with two grills – I chose the reinforced one which does not have an obvious set of studs to glue the front photoetched grill to.
— The supplied tow-hook is incredibly small and wimpy and would be snapped off within the first few races. I replaced it with the rounded tip of a ziptie, drilled out with a 1/16 drill in a pin-vise. This nylon version is not only bright red its virtually indestructable. I also moved the position down from upper left nose to the lower right grill which seems a more common location. I will upload some pix in a later installment."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseBLACK FOAM TAPE
The rules for both the ScaleAuto and BRM cars keep mentioning ‘black foam tape’ to buttress wing uprights.1. Is this any significantly better than just putting a 1/16in layer of ShoeGoo from the decklid up to the wing, along the uprights?
2. Is this neoprene type weatherstrip tape we can get at Home Depot/Lowes?
3. Marty/Ary/Sean do you have any of this tape?"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseIn a pre-assembly dry-fit:
The painted Viper body, with chassis attachment hardware plus lexan cockpit & glass; is appx 57gm – easily meeting the 55-60gm weight range. The cockpit and glass are both appx 2.5gm /ea, the shell appx 30gm and the attachment hardware 22gm.
The chassis weighs appx 138gm for a total car of appx 195 gm – 10 gm below the minimum of 205gm.When assembled, with the wheel inserts, lights, screws etc I expect the total weight to be between 201-205gm.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseI have the Excel image at 100%. I used GRAB which is a snipper included as a utility in OSX 10.8.5. It only allows saving in TIFF.
The resolution looks good at 100% and while in TIFF. I view the file with Preview (still looks good) and export it as a JPG, dragging the Quality bar to the far right (max). After I upload the resolution seems to have been changed.I will try the keyboard capture to see if that results in better image quality. Or maybe I will just use my WIN86 machine at work – I don’t have any problems with images – which I am working with several times a week.
Attachments:
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseHOW TO MOUNT BRM SPONGE TIRES?
1. What is the recommended adhesive to mount the BRM sponges to the wheels?
— Clear nail polich or top-coat?
— Rubber or contact cement? (seems like it would be too lumpy…)
— 3M spray adhesive?2. Application:
— Smear a thin layer on all of the wheel tre mounting surface?
— Apply 4 or 5 dots or lines at equadistant points on the wheel?
— Dots on the inside rim only?3. Tools
— A Q-tip? k-boob skewer? long zip-tie? toothpik?
— stiff paint brush like used with rubber cement?
— a gloved finger?"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseUPDATE
Track will be Carerra 1/24: 25 13in straights will provide 27 feet of track.
— Carerra track is typically deep enough to take wood track guides. If not, I will obtain sufficient plastic guides for people to use.3 Classes will exist – detailed rules posted at a later date
— Super stock: Similar to SlotIt Challenge rules. Orange-bell. Open tires and gears.
— Pro-Stock: Similar to Can-Am and TransAm rules. Up to Red-bell motor or 30k motor any brand. Lexan interiors allowed.
— Comp-Eliminator:
~~ 1/32 cars can have up to a 50k NSR long-can motor; open gearing and tires, lexan interior. Anti-wheelie device required (I will make wheelie ‘cards’ or wheelsets for 1/32s.
~~ 1/24 BRMs and ScaleAutos can have up to 50k motor long-can motors. (A good excuse to use your BRM inline chassis.)
~~ 1/24 Parma metal chassis stock drag cars with lexan bodies are allowed – but must race similar cars. (Group-7 and G-12 motors not allowed.) Foam tires&wheels must be replaced by H&R tires&wheels or equal (https://www.professormotor.com/H-R-Racing-Brand-s/171.htm) Wheelie wheels required.
~~ Custom built chassis/cars also allowed but must race cars with similar motors. Parma death-star motors preferred. Rubber tires (BRM, H&R or similar) are required. Wheelie wheels required.Indexed/handicapped matches (based on ET) will help equalize cars with close but not similar performance. Handicapps will be determined by qualifying runs held a few weeks earlier than the actual finals. A bracket system will ensure everyone races everyone else in their class at least once. 3 Marshalls will be needed for every match.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseGUIDE DEPTH GUAGE
…aka….surface plate used to measure the 1mm ….Marty do you have one of these? How safe will it be just to eye-ball the guide and use a micrometer/caliper?
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseSCALEAUTO GEAR LASH ADJUSTMENT
Is the recommended method to adjust the lash by moving the motor in/out with the motor mount screws?Also, other than replacing any spurs that are not oval or tacoed, are there any other best practices?
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseANSWERS from Ary, Marty, and others (thanks guys!)
1. Dimensions for:
a. Braid Recess: Depth is 1.1mm (for 1/4″ braid), channel is 3/4″
b. Guide Slot: 1/8″ x 9mm deep.2. If we do not need any magnetic downforce, is there any problem with using copper tape?
ANSWER: Copper tape works great for conductivity and is super easy to put on and does not require any additional routing for the braid. You can just rout the guide slot with a 1/8″ router bit, paint it and then put on copper tape. (no channel needed)3. Who are good sources for braid or tape?
ANSWER: Braid: Jim Honneycut at Magnatech Raceway in San Antonio. He will also have the 3M double sided tape you will need to apply it.
Tape: Blue Moon Stain Glass store here in Austin.4. Does the braid/tape need to be glued or taped? Use 3M double sided tape.
5. For a total length of 28 ft
a. How much paint is needed? 1 gallon (2 coats).
b. What kind of paint, epoxy, latex? We used latex eggshell for the road track.
c. Is a special primer needed? Primer for Latext.
d. Application Method: hand brushing, spray gun? Brushing will be fine. Track must be painted before any braid or copper tape is put down.5. Would CNC routing be cost effective? Maybe not. CNC setup for what you want will cost around $300, cutting cost will depend on how long it will take.
6. Any other considerations or recommendations?
A. Plastic track will be significantly more affordable and quicker, especially for the first time in a non-official event. We can design an MDF track if there is enough interest to do this again in the future.B. After the traps, a short dead spot (3in of no braid) is needed, followed by non-powered braid/tape that is shorted across the pickups-this will provide controller-less braking.
C. You will also need to find a timing system. For drag races you need sensors at the beginning and end of a run (if distance beween starting tree and timing trap is 22ft, you need cables that long between the sensors and timing computer.
D. A Commercial Power supply needed, such as a Pyramid.
E. Controller stations are needed with XLR females.
F. Foam and perhaps side rails may be needed in the shutdown area to catch cars.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseWill we have another tuning and practice day in the coming weeks? I think Sundays would probably be best, or after our regular Sat races.
What is the plan for building/tuning cars for the people going who dont have their cars (or cannot afford one).
What is our strategy regarding the BRM -vs- Scaleautos.
— Who is racing BRM only, …Scaleauto only …..Who is racing both (verify data on our forum)
— Who has a car; who needs to borrow a car?
— Who needs tires, gears, etc. Can they buy from Marty or should buy from Alan/132slots.
— Schedule a BRM practice; … a SA practice (on the same day I assume, but can we designate specific times or order?)
— Weight and body float tuning — need some guidance
— Sponge Tire truing — need some guidance
— BRM front tires – should we true them to get them to minimum diameter, or just let the track do the work?
— Local tech inspection. Confirm that everyone meets the specs before the trip?"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseThe issue is not compound or temp. Spring has finally come and for this race we are running F30s, and on Sat it was appx 75-Far. at the track. We are practicing for a regional 1/24 race in June at All Scale raceway. We will be running BRM 1/24 Group-Cs and ScaleAuto GTs – and the spec tires are sponge for both classes. For the tires a traction liquid is spec’ed – ScaleAuto Tire cleaner; without it the sponges wont hook up.
So Marty, Ary and a few others have been practicing at Kings with their ScaleAutos and the cleaner (applied to the tires). It leaves a light residue on the track that is dry to the touch, but has produced ever so slightly better traction for the Slot.It and NSR et al. rubber tires (we first noticed it runing 1/32s after the 1/24 tuning experiments on Thurs and 4/11).
Last weekend we had our first race after the first ScaleAuto experiments, and several people had the same issue with their tires. The inside treads seemed to be peeling (about 2mm from the inside wall) as if the tire was starting to separate at a molding line. Tires also seemed to be wearing more quickly and were leaving more marbles on the track and the cleaning tape.
We also had some weird handling problems. Overall the cornering traction was better, but at weird spots it seem to break (like a magnet) and cars did a lean-over (rather than a violent barrel role or de-slot) farther into the curve than they would normally de-slot.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose
