Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Measuring wheels takes some patience and a good micrometer (caliper). The Rim may be 15mm in outside diameter (OD), mimicking a 15inch dia rim, and the center rib/nub/nib may be 17mm and 5mm wide. Thus, a typical tire with a 1mm thick casing will be 19mm trued (17+1+1), a meatier tire may be 18 or 19mm when mounted and untrued. Some manufacturers spec their wheels by the rim, many spec at the rib/nub/nib. In general for a lot of our series we run wheels with a Rim OD of 15, 16, or 17. 17s push the limits because they result in tire OD of 20mm and are hard to fit inside a wheel-well and they raise the CG, plus they result in a “higher” (hotter, faster) gear ratio [on our site is a spreadsheet that calculates the effect of wheel/tire size on Actual Gear Ratio]. A larger final OD also raises the chassis off the track and significantly reduces the already meager downforce we get from the motor mags.
Your tire is too small (tight) in Diameter for the wheel if it crowns ‘convex’ on the center; the nib is stretching the center up and pulling in the sidewalls. Your tire is too small in Width when it crowns ‘concave’ at the sidewall, producing devil-horns with a sunken center. This can also happen if the nib is too wide for your tire’s internal channel. For example CB Design tends to have wider ribs than others (they are popular with people who use super stretchy Urethane tires like PaulGage).
A loose tire is as bad as too-tight a tire because it will slip as you accelerate out of a corner; and your glue will break fairly easy. A tight tire requires no, or less glue, which reduces yet another factor that can go wrong. Once glue breaks the result is like a slipping drive (crown, spur) gear or heavily worn tires.
Sometimes you have to check the sidewall wording (the Slot.It markings) because with some wheel tire combos (esp with F30s), if the label faces out the tire is 0.5 to 1mm ‘skinny’ from the outside rim, (this is because of the positioning of the rib groove inside). Flip the tire and it fits perfect in that case.
Unfortunately the vendors are inconsistent on sidewall labels. A ’30’ on a Slot.It indicates it is a SIPT28/F30. A ’22’ means it is one of three 22-shore Slot.It tires (an F22 and two sizes of N22). A ’15’ = F15 Slot.It. A tire with just Slot.It on the sidewall hints it is a ‘P6’ which works good on Carrera and Scaley Plastic tracks [and in some unique weather situations with a low power motor it is acceptable on our track (but not as good as a 30)]. BRM 30s have specific part-#s on the sidewall but no Shore values. NSR Supergrips have a dull finish like F30s, whereas Ultragrips have a slightly shiny finish because they are a formula that includes some urethane (but Ultragrips dull with use and truing). NSRs do not have part#s or Shore values on the sidewall.
Note that Shore 22 and 15 tires are more likely to split when CA/superglue is used on them (it dries them out and cracks them).
For rear tires wide is typically better; in general the tires we use come in 10mm, 11, <span style=”text-decoration: underline;”>12mm</span> widths. 14mm widths are reserved for F1 type wheels, wont fit under most wheel wells and are Illegal in most of our series. Our F1 races typically spec NSR F1 tires.
Look at Dave’s (Butch) pit box for how he organizes and labels his spare tires; he clips the label from the sack and places it at the bottom of the cell where his tires are at. Other guys do the same with ‘tire tubes’ (basically pill bottles).
Break out your notebook and get advice from the various guys on what tires to use, and the specific part #s to use for certain series and motor/gear combos.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseI will update the list. Looking forward to the final rules – moreso to the race!
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseRandy, it is not an exact science. That being said there is a chart on the Slot.It site and in their catalog that maps their tires to wheels and shows how a particular rim OD (outside diameter) affects a given tire’s installed OD and Width. Naturally you want a very tight fit, BUT not so tight that the tire “crowns” (i.e. a convex buldging center and withdrawn sidewall, or a concave center ~the opposite).
Also – keep in mind that for most of our races many people choose the following: Slot.It F30, (SIPT28), NSR Supergips, or BRM Shore-30s (part#s provided in another post). Some guys use Slot.it F22s, N22s and NSR Ultragrips esp with high torque (>170gm) motors.
’30s’ have a durometer rating of their softness of 30-shore. F22, N22 are 22-shore (softer and hence shred easier). Supergrips are between 25-30, maybe 28. Ultragrips are 18-22. (NSR is not explicit on the Shore rating for their tires.) F15s are typically only used in the winter when the track is below 60deg. They may last a Thurs night and one hard race.
** I am sure that some of the other guys will have some good comments on this topic!
The Slot.It chart looks like this: https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=slot+it+tire+chart&view=detailv2&&id=A5ACB3DD9B90817CF455F70AD0D055ED793F424A&selectedIndex=0&ccid=FPuJpx1Z&simid=607992530833834800&thid=OIP.M14fb89a71d59474544caba74acaac25eo0&ajaxhist=0
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseShawn,
— The text part list I posted was taken from the HTML table from the NSR site (the HTML is hard to read)
— At the meeting 10/29 several suggestions were made. I was not aware of which ones may have been from someone reflecting a discussion they had with you. Since you are the Race Manager, like other series the rules are yours to finish. The only topic we really voted on was the hardness of the chassis.
My question on no-grips was about allowing any NSR no-grips (since we do allow no-grips in some series).
As race manager you may want to finalize rules (by declaration or by vote) this Sat 11/12.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseShawn I have some questions:
— I believe the red-hard pod is OEM; so I assume that’s the spec part.
— Are no-grips allowed; if so do they have to be the treaded no-grips (aka Classic) and is that the NSR #5201, or are the slick NSR no-grips allowed
— So we can get spares for the rear, is the spec the Supergrip Treaded or Slicks? (in last weeks adhoc meeting Ary suggested the OEM style, treaded.)
— Is the NSR screw guide allowed (vs the OEM snap in model)
— Are we allowing the spur to be changed (as with most series)?
— Are ball-bearing or swivel (Victors) bushings allowed vs the OEM oilites?
— Do wires have to be the OEM skinny cable?
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseNSR 917 Parts List
BODY
Interior Parts Kit: (no body shell) #1342
Lights and glass #1341
Complete kit with Shell #1349Medium/Black Chassis:#1339
Medium/Black Pod: #1247
Height adjusting screw kit: #1238
SCC 4-40 Oval Point Set ScrewsScrew Guide: #4844
Guide Post Screw: #4852
Wire: (.75mm) #4826, (.25mm) #4824MOTOR
Shark-22: #3001F (with sidewinder pinion for end-bell drive)
Pinion: (6.8mm SW) #6910, #6911, #6912, #6913
Spur: (17.5mm SW) #6030, #6031, #6032, #6033, #6034, #6035, #6036, #6037WHEELS
Front -or- Rear (solid rib) (16×8) #5001
Rear (air system channeled rib) (16×8) #5002
Rear (air system channeled rib) (17×10) #5004TIRES
Front: No-Grip for 16mm wheel: installed size 17×8 #5201
Rear “classic” (treaded) SuperGrips for 16mm wheel
Installed size 18×10 #5239
Installed size 20×8.5 #5234
Installed size 20.5×10 #5253"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseList of 917s NSRs available at Electric Dreams
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontrosePer ASCC Ad-Hoc Club Meeting Oct 29
917-2017 Series
Specs: NSR, any current or recent 917 model.
Mods: NSR 22k Shark motor, NSR screw guide, black chassis with adjustable front axle height, NSR No-Grip front tires, NSR gears can be changed, smooth shank body screws, rear wheels can can a solid nib/rib or be AirSystem
OEM Required parts: Body, hard cabin/tub, wire, medium/black chassis, stock rear tires (can be trued)- After a discussion regarding chassis – we voted to spec the stock medium black chassis; therefore leveling the specs and helping to reduce additional expenses. If a racer has an old black chassis w/o adjustable front axle pillars, they can upgrade ($9) to a current medium/black chassis.
Not Allowed: Grinding of body or chassis, independent rotating front wheels.
Numbers, type, livery must be chosen. Please make your pick before Nov 12
Current dibs: Dave #14-GES IPA, Ary #7-Gulf, Mark #2-Gulf, Russ #20-Gulf, Marty #23, Alex Whitekit, Randy #13, John B #1-Gulf, Rich #3Goodwood-2017 Series
Racers will have to declare your car to prevent duplicates. Fantasy liveries are allowed to help differentiate between duplicate or similar OEM liveries.
The Racer Silver series is allowed.
No metal chassis are allowed, Slot.It HRS-2 and similar plastic adjustable chassis allowed."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseNSR 917
1. What bodies are allowed?
2. The hard cockpit has a deep tub – it can interfere if you want to place ballast midway or behind the front axle. I propose we allow lexan cockpits.
3. The stock chassis is the medium black – an extra hard green is available for $9-12usd depending on the vendor.
4. The car is light and the 20k can work, but can we allow the 25k?
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseRuss, super cool. I love the Webers with stacks. So.. whats the deal with the pod? Did it come with another configuration or do you just have to install the pod (i.e. its not R2R?)
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose- 1/24 BRMs – not limited to Group-Cs, lets include the 917s, McLarens and Ferrari-512s.
- Russell suggested a ‘bracket race’ where a car is given an ‘index’ from the best time of a 3 to 5 minute qualifying run, (and we could also have 3 qualifying runs and pick the average of the 3 best times). So, all teams (driver & car) with indexes from 3.7 to 3.75 would race each other, … with a 3.85-3.9 index would race together, etc. The only restriction would be scale (1/32) of the car.
- Vintage Classics Race
Spec would be for a Slot.It HRS-2 chassis; body would be GTs, Daytona Prototypes, basically 1970s-80s cars that are currently in vintage heros races. Cobras, Cheetas, Ferrari GTs and GTOs, McLaren coupes, classic Mercs, classic corvettes, from FLY, NINCO, Carrerra, Scaley, etc. Motor < 25k; Weight <100g; Rear Tires 17×12 max.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseDocument and pic of Rally track. Maybe the 3rd attempt to attach will work ?[attachment file=”Rally-track-design-July.jpg”][attachment file=”ASCC-Club-Meeting-Summary-Jul-2016.docx”]
Attachments:
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose
