Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
REVO SLOT PARTS
Hey guys, some of you are interested in spare tires. Marty says the stock tires are very durable, but it does not hurt to have backups.
Alan (132slotcar.us) is in-process of documenting what parts he has, specifically tires, wheels, and guides. They are not on his website yet. When he does I will pass on the info (part-numbers, prices).
They are not (easy to find…) on Pendle’s site nor BRM’s site."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseRegarding a sandpaper truer, above the power supplies is a simple “tire cleaner” – a piece of carerra track with #300? sandpaper on it. We use if for minor clean-up truing between races, and for HO cars. I made it back in May when Bobby was taping paper onto the bench and truing his tires that way.
Regarding the Razor, I bought Dave’s and adjusted it to make it actually level (it was not truing each side equally). Mine works Ok – yes Ary it’s not a precision tool but for carreras it would be ok.
ALSO – why dont we just allow Slot.It axles, wheels and 12mm tires? I converted my Carerra 2016 GT40. It is still Heavy and we should consider a Slot.It Orange endbell motor. Everyone has spares and those that dont can buy parts from another member.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseI second the nom for Shawn for Pres.
I nominate both David Cass and myself for VP.
I nominate Ary for Secretary.
I nominate Russel for Treasurer // if that spot is also open."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseHe lives in ATX. He got the Kingman track from Amarillo. (its not a BlueKing but is a banked track).
Location will be on top of his paintball proshop (Outlaw?) Will have a retail parts counter.
Flat track may be dry (or cleaned for any 1/32 races we have there).
He needs to build out the room in Jan before moving in the track (already stored locally). He will let is know if he needs any specific help."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseLooks super cool! Obviously availability will be a factor to consider when to run this series (4Q?) and we eventually need to locate the price. $90? $120?
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseAttached is my proposal for an “Econo Super Car” series of Scaley High-Impact/Resistant:
— Audi R18, Bugata Veryon, McLaren, Ferrari coupes
— Motors must be the stock spec, but can be broke in and you pick from the best-of-the-litter. Perhaps all of us could break in our spare Scaley motors and bring them in to sell/trade?
— The spur gear will be open, as per Marty’s concern to be able to tune the car to accomodate the inconsistent RPMs of the motors."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseThanks Tom. How can we communicate directly? me=mark_a_lucas37@hotmail.com
So, sorry but I am still not clear on any details:
— You are moving/moved to Austin from Amarillo?
— If you are moving the tracks in by early 2018, what is your estimated timeline for completing assembly and installation (May?) and grand opening (June?)
— *What Help Do You Need*
— Will you include a retail storefront, and/or will that come later TBD?
— I got the Grand Ave part-but will this be on top of the concrete company?
……
— Will 1/32 cars be supported by having at least one road track glue-free?"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseTom- that sounds really exciting. I will bring up the topic in our next meeting.
** If at all possible, it could be very helpful if you came down to Kings one Saturday and discussed your plans with some of us. Check our calendar for when we are racing.
QUESTIONS
1. What specific help do you need? Moving logistics, final assembly, electrical, touch-up repairs, timing system setup etc?
2. When do you forecast a grand opening? Spring 2018? Will this be a for-profit storefront?
3. Are you planning to have any of the tracks ‘dry’ for 1/32 racers?
4. Kingman = BlueKing?
5. I can provide specific help with the dragstrip – I have experience running on the DSC track in Garland, my own portable track and other related experiences.
6. Where is the location in Pflugerville?"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseCAN AM – Randy I will be glad to be your Assistant Manager. I will setup the track, prep for and execute Scrutineering if you are late, and help you with your first stories.
—–
RULES – IMHO, Russ’ custom wheels were legal and appropriate b/c the Donahue 1×1 917-30 had huge wheels/tires. Yes it dominated and so did Russell, but I doubt it was due to unfair advantage strictly from the tires/wheels. He put alot of work into the car and it could have easily failed – it was a fairly realistic process similar to what they did to the real 917-30 to make it win. His car was fat and heavy and easily could have been disadvantaged in the process.So – for 2018, we could create a rule that for cars like the 917-30, F1 wheels would be spec’ed, therefore Not requiring (or allowing) someone to go through the custom wheel process that Russ did. Basically, for certain models we could allow the F1 wheels, but retain our standard spec that the tires have to be completely within the wheel-well/fenders. Realistically, if we have another CAN AM there is nothing wrong with keeping the spirit of the original 1×1 race and allowing the openness that made it the fast and exciting 1×1 series it was.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseECONO Super-Cars Update
— Open gearing being considered; per Marty’s commentsPROPOSAL TEMPLATE
Attached is a Word doc you can download and/or print to document details on the series you want to propose. Yes, of course you can edit the document as you need for your series. PLEASE DELETE anything from the template that is NOT directly related to your series. You can also simply PRINT this out and manually pen in your specs and bring copies to the Oct meeting (strike out anything not related to your series).
Please do NOT copy in the existing rules about magnets, silicone, oil-soaking, wings, ballast, screws …. especially if they are not typically encountered in our races or rarely enforced. We got it – there are standard things we don’t allow. Only discuss a variation, allowance or new restriction.
Please be very simple and direct to the point."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseA serious suggestion this time … covers common issues such as limiting cost, confusing rules, emphasis on driver skill over endless investment and equipment tuning. Normal and reasonable tuning allowed vs overly restrictive mods on spec cars.
1.ECONO SUPER-CARS
Scalextric Highly-resistant Audi-R8 and Bugati Veyron; both appx $40
Both have similar dimensions; both have the typical sidewinder 18.5k rpm motor.
R8: 86gm, w/b 83mm, len 142mm, wdth 62.5mm
Veyron: 88gm, w/b 85.5mm, len 140mm, wdth 63mmEQUIPMENT MODS: Fr tires: ZeroGrip 19×10; Rr tires: F30, P6; B-Nova guide adapter, Slot.It DeepWood Guide; Slot.It smooth-shank body screws; Fantasy paint or decals encouraged; race number on side windows and upper left windsheild (GT style) required
TUNING ALLOWED: Motor break-in; front tire height adjusted with guide spacers; bushings and motor may be glued; bare minimum chassis trimming for float; post-cups can be flattened (for float) but cannot be shortened; rear OEM wheels can be trued; rear tires can be glued and trued (on TireRazor); Ballast allowed but max weight less than 92gm
PROHIBITED: Magnet, alloy wheels, non-OEM gears and axles, body lightening, non-OEM motor/guide wires, non-OEM glass
VOLTAGE: 12 or 13v – to be determined after some experimentation.BENEFITS: Low-cost; single brand; controlled-specs but typical tuning allowed. Emphasis on FUN and DRIVING skill, -vs- ‘no expenses spared’ to turn 3.6s These cars are great looking and handle decent out of the box.
2.ECONO FORMULA
Scalextric High-impact F1s
Specs and rules similar to the ECONO SUPER-CAR
VARIATIONS: Rear tires Slot.It F22s (shore 22s for F1 wheels), or PaulGage Eurethanes if the F22s won’t fit. Max weight 6gm over factory spec."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseB-GROUP RALLY CAR SETUP
I lucked out and placed 3rd in the first race, and no doubt next month when a few other members enter my overall standing will slip. However, here is the setup I used – JIC any of you can use it as a reference.CHASSIS: SlottingPlus3D-I trimmed the chassis to fit *inside (not under) the body for freer float. The plastic they used is easily stripped by the front-axle grub screws (so once my front axle was adjusted I used locktite (nail polish also works) on the exposed threads of the top half of the upper grubs to prevent slipping. The heads of my lower grubs are Not exposed so I did not Locktite them (that would have blocked the head-hole for the wrench)).
BODY-SCREWS: 6mm Slot.It steel phillips-head with smooth shanks.BALLAST: One 7gm lead-slug behind the guide boss with 7g lead-slugs stuck to each side of the motor. Total weight appx 95g.
BODY: I had a rally lexan interior (bought last year from ProfessorMotor) complete with navigator – so I replaced the already light and flat interior of my AvantSlot Imprezza.
Lexan windows are legal, so I replaced the windsheild and rear-window with sheet plastic from a HO car’s box (similar to what is used on some Pioneer and Scaley boxes). Page-protector sheet plastic is also thin, so if you want some, there are some sheet protectors in our Magazine bins below the rally track across from the power supplies and other common pit equipment.I liked the driver names and flag in the side-rear-windows, so I carefully used a hot-razor-knife to cut out the side-rear-windows (which are reqd to be retained). I sanded the rough edges left by the hot knife off the side-rear-windows and tacked them in with tiny dabs of ShoeGoo.
GUIDE: ScaleAuto Red deep-racing guide, with long-shaft (so I could trim it to fit the ‘tall’ boss/tongue on the 3D chassis. Rounded the tip of the ‘battleship’ flag-nose -so it stopped clicking in the trough of the 2nd dip in the main straightaway. Trimmed from the back so it was 17.5mm long from the nose. Most of flag is leading the guidepost/flagpole. I added two thin metal-spacers help it move smoothly across the bottom of the 3D-chassis.
FRONT WHEELS/TIRES: Slot.It 15.8×10 aluminum short-hubs. A slight hub or spacer is needed to prevent tire rub on the 3D chassis. Tires: Slot.It Zero-Grip condoms (17dx10w) Flying 0.5mm off a flat block.
REAR WHEELS/TIRES: SlotingPlus 15.8×10 aluminum no-hubs (with 0.50/440 grubs). Tires: Slot.It F30s. (I first tried N22s but they were “too grippy” and did not drift enough).
MOTOR: A spare Ninco in-line 26,000rpm @14.8V ‘NC10-Exceeder’. At 12v this motor is 21,000; I ran at 10volts so effective rpm was 17,493.
GEARS: 28z(yellow)/9z = 3.11 therefore Calc’ed rear-wheel RPM at 10v is 5,625. Ball-bearings are used for the rear axles.DRIVING TECHNIQUE: A smooth squeeze, with no abrupt braking or fast-feathers. A short pulse on the straight – slight throttle on the humps, agressive in the hill-climb, steady moderate squeeze in all the switch-backs.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseGood looking car Randy – are you trying to create a “dibs” list, have some tech questions, or just showing off how good your car will look after we landscape the track?
spyder out
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose
