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Marty, I will be sending the beer can to you tomorrow. Do you know if the deep wood guide bottoms out on the Houston track? Not in a good position to swap it out between venues if I entrust it to your care.
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-Warren ZevonI had three pictures in this post, but only one, the least useful showed up. Sheesh…
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-Warren ZevonI had mentioned some wood-guide clearance issues with ehe Marc 190. The wood guide is much squarer than the stock guide. Marty gave me the go ahead to remove m=some material did not take much. An X-acto on the guide cutout, and a dremel on the backside of the front valence, and we are free for running. The main culprits were two tiny vertical bits behind the license plate. I used the small Dremel sanding drum, the regular one would not fit between the mounting post and the backside of the front valence.
[attachment file=”Guides-small.jpg”]
[attachment file=”Guide in chassis-small.jpg”]
It is a tight fit
[attachment file=”Body fit-small.jpg”]
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"Enjoy every sandwich"
-Warren ZevonTWO group C? Can’t we mix it up a bit? There are some interesting open-wheel possibilities we can look into.
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-Warren ZevonI have discovered an issue with the Mercedes 190. When the deep wood guide is installed, it rubs against the back of a plastic insert on the body (inside of brake ducts) Is it against the rules to remove material from the insert, or the guide to ensure free movement?
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-Warren Zevonand more difficult TO USE without wobbling.
Forum would not allow me to edit post.
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-Warren ZevonM2 Tap for “chasing” the threads for the Upper Axle Height Setting grub Screw
micromark.com/Metric-Tap
M2.0x40 #82321T $12.**Normally, you would also need a Clearance drill bit, (such as creating a new hole for a fixing screw on a Wheel; yet based on experience, it’s easier and faster just to buy a new rim!)
For the Slot.IT Uprights a Clearance Bit is Not Necessary.
Likewise – a pin vise, or a few wraps of tape, is all you need as a holder/driver for tapping plastic.Yes, a pin-vise works well. The traditional T-handle is overkill, and more difficult house without wobbling.
[attachment file=”Tap.jpg”]
The plastic pin on the axle insert (the part we all remove) is 1.85mm. Under a mm, so running an M2 grub screw into that hole is most likely causing outward forces on the hole. Asking for a break in those delicate upper loops. If nothing else, the tap and pin vise give you a nice, true ‘start’
[attachment file=”Upper Loop.jpg”]
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-Warren ZevonAre we really running 14v as shown on the rules? Are we running the thin version of the Z front tires or the taller more scale like version?
Could you provide part numbers for these tires for those uf us who have not memorized the Slot.it catalog?
TIA
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-Warren ZevonA suggestion for proxy rules.
This should make the race manager’s job much easier. Have entrants write their name (or handle) on the bottom of the car. With a bunch of unfamiliar cars, and new names, both in Austin and in Houston, It will be a great help keeping things straight. This has been a standard rule in all proxies I have entered. Besides there’s much more room on the bottom of a DTM than there is a 60s F1 car 🙂
[attachment file=”Naming.jpg”]
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-Warren ZevonMarc – stay strong my friend and avoid the squeeze on your track. Squeeze oranges, limes, lemons and your partner but not your track.
[attachment file=”SquEEze.jpg”]
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-Warren ZevonMarc – great idea looks challenging. I assume 1/32:1/24 scale (not 1/43)? <s> other mark</s>
Yes, 1/32 primarily. Maybe some small 1/24.
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-Warren ZevonMarty, I am definitely leaning away from a squeeze. I think it will only add frustration. The temptation keeps creeping in, though.
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-Warren ZevonMarty! You are a prince! It that a routing fence in the bottom pic?
Beginning to play with the shape of the lanes. I keep going back and forth on whether to have a bit of a squeeze at the chicane.
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-Warren Zevon
