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Eddie-you may want someone to walk through each aspect of your car to determine where the ‘drag’ was that was slowing you down. With minimal tuning your car should be turning 4.1-3.9s easy.
Slot.It tires are Non-Spec – I have some ThunderSlots if you need a pair.
You cannot change the guide, but about 3gm of weight and a 1mm spacer may help prevent the flips and rolls in the tight corners. You may need spacers on the front posts – see previous posts about flexing the front axle carriers when they press against the body.
Other flips and rolls are just you getting use to the braking spots in the corners."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose1. Shawn I will be glad to chair the meeting.
2. Marty you must had read my mind on most of those topics.
3. Rally Series – thanks for everyone’s input. I think with the variable voltage we can overcome the torquey issues we have on the road track.
4. I wish to add a topic Alejandro suggested – regarding a non-racing Social event sometime soon. I will let him provide his ideas."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseISSUE: The OEM shipped motor is either an Inline or Aw long-can. Long cans provide the high torque at low-voltage that we need coming out of turns.
1. Altho some people may have great success with short cans, is there any solid reason to force people to buy a short can motor and pod – if they are happy with their OEM long can?
2. Should we restrict the motors to OEM as delivered?
3. Restrict to any NSR long cans?
4. Restrict to any NSR short or long cans?
5. Open motor?"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose@Randy and @Shawn; Marty proposed the series but Yours Truly is series manager for Rally-18; I believe it is even stated so on the rules page :O
@Randy, as per posts [11901][11894][11946] and probably a few others:
–you have stated your desire to use the OEM anglewinder; as I have stated before I am considering this change. My friend, please don’t beat this horse into hamburger 🙂 If you still need to beat it – push to me since last time I checked I was SM.
–More importantly, I have requested input from All – and only gotten your input online (and 1×1 from Dave and Alex today)
** To address your concerns I will be more aggressive in getting input and have a decision date. Please note that Final Rules for this series was established by Ary as May. I can accelerate that up into April if it soothes all the apprehension on this series.
March 11 was when I made the note in the rules – it was never a discussion or decision date. The intent was for someone *other than* @RadialTA to give me their feedback 🙂
If I remember correctly, we are in this *hobby for Fun and friendship, not angst =:
I hear you and will take action to reduce the angst.
Cpt Obvious and Major Buzzkill signing off …"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseGreat idea and we can discuss at April meeting.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose[Reply to 12006-Shawn]
Shawn and Russ I Apologize. Guys as these dates were flying around I did some “What-Ifs” with the calendar. For the last 3 years I have entered the dates in Google Calendar and made a corresponding Word version for the corkboard. I check the COTA schedule and make sure we don’t schedule races the same weekends as F1, PWC, MotoGP, and SVRA; likewise I schedule races around the annual planning meeting, Christmas party and holiday weekends. When I find potential conflicts I point them out to the Series Manager (SM). Sometimes the SMs pay attention to the *future* calendar dates, but often they seem to focus on the most imminent events. The whole process takes a few hours and requires focused attention to detail.*In this case-I Apologize for being too-proactive in changing the dates. I had no idea the changes would be taken as if they were “hard” changes, IMHO they certainly could not be firm until a) the event was imminent (as per Russ, one month away) and b) the Series Manager declared them as final.
In my mind the dates were clearly Drafts until a) & b) had occurred.
Again – I apologize for the confusion and will not do again; certainly there was never even the least intent of these dates being taken as absolutes.
Series Managers – please view your series in Google Calendar and coordinate all changes with Steve B."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose[Reply to 12022-Russ]
SERIES MANAGER AUTHORITY-This has been ‘the elephant in the room’ we discuss (at practice anyway) almost every year and often when someone other than the race manager makes un-vetted decisions or just influences the proletariate in favor of their recommendations (2017-917 being a notable instance).One *possible* natural approach could be: SM proposes rules; solicits changes -based on experimentation (like the sidecars) up to the final-rules date; vets changes via vote with club; makes a command decision (influenced by the vote). Dates are no different-SM should vet changes with members and in the end make the final decision. They are responsible for rules and stories/results so they naturally should have great influence on rules and dates.
Essentially, either the members need to convince the SM to change per the common preferences, or the SM convinces the members that their rules have strong merit. Mutual Respect is key to this working-(1) members should try and understand the SM’s approach (as we did with the hard-line specs for the Revoslot); and the (2) SM should respect that series participation may suffer if members consider some rules technically or financially burdensome.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontrosePROPOSAL TO MOVE TO Q4 – Since this is a Quarterly series, can we not swap it with the Carrera series? This solves the residue problem. The half-year race at that time is the Rally which will not run on the road course and hence not affected like the Lotus series.
After the 1/24 SA series is over we can clean the track and have 2-3 weeks to let the whole thing dry in time for 2019-Series-1.TIRE MATERIAL -Has anyone tested these ScaleAuto rubber tires (against the foamies)
SC-4731, 24×12 Slick, Soft, RT; SC-4736, 24×13 Slick, Soft – $12 @132Slotcar.USAFFECT ON 1/32 CARS -History shows that temporarily (a few weeks) F30s/SuperGrips actually have more grip (hence less drift in the corners) and goo/marble/shed quickly. Then, as the track dries the grip becomes unpredictable, kinda like when you reach a magnet’s break-point.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseCONFUSED : )
Eddie – this car is gorgeous! Are you (a) offering this car for sale or (b) informing us that you are restoring it and will demo to us some time later this year?"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseMOTOR/GUIDE WIRE PROBLEMS
Heads-up, the motor wires are susceptible to breaking at the eyelet/ferrel. Thunderslot flattens normal size ferrels, then secures them against the pickup-braid with fat grub screws (2.5mm, 3mm?) much like BRM guides. **The flattening creates a sharp edge that cuts the sparse strands in the thin (1mm?) stock wire. Similar to a solder-break or lose eyelet the only symptoms are periodic power loss followed soon by complete lack of response to the controller.SOLUTION-You must replace the wire (since they leave very little slack in the stock wires).
Using a large size ferrel (2 to 2.5mm) will work; and if used the grub screws are not needed and in fact cannot screw in deep enough to stay in the guide.
But if you again use normal/small ferrels, they require flattening so that the grubs can grab enough ‘meat’ in the threads to hold the braid and ferrel in the guide. Obviously this continues the risk of the wires being cut by the ferrel."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseLets dicuss today. Russ – what are your specific recommendations?
Do you want to move move #3 to April 19
and #4 to April 26?
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontrosePendle (PSR) has these cars for 140gbp ==> $196 USD
SC-7046C SC-7068R SC-7062R SC-7024RC SC-7027RC SC-7046R SC-7048R SC-7050R
Always check to see if the desciption claims they have the Carbon fibre chassis kit – ‘SC8003C Scaleauto GT3 Chassis Kit’For anyone who already has a ScaleAuto 1/24 car – the main parts are still steel – the carbon fibre parts are:
SC-8003c – Complete Kit $100 usd (front plate, H-plate, tounge with metal chassis main plate) SC-8102C, SC-8153c, SC-8104C
SC-8101c – H-Plate (float plate) $24 usd
SC-8153c – Front sub-plate $16 usd
SC-8156c – Motor sub-plate $16 usdAlans carbon parts:
SC-8003C GT1 1/24 Scale Chassis with carbon fiber parts $90 – includes the metal chassis plate SC-8102C, SC-8153c, SC-8104C (H, front sub plate, tounge)
SC-8101c – H-Plate (float plate) $28
SC-8102c – Alternative H-Plate (float plate) $25 // has less material
SC-8104c – Guide Tongue $15I dont think 132slotcars.us has any of the cars. The GT3s are below but it is not clear if they have the carbon kit – an email or call to Alan could clarify.
Cars with the new chassis should have a C or RC in the suffix.
SC-7030 (BMW) SC-7038 SC-7039 (Porsches) $180.**us"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseMarty, that basic logic is sound. So 1 more vote for the 12th for Thunderslot #3. and moving the May meeting to the 19th.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseEddie, I have some spare screws. That may be safer than potentially splitting the body posts from screws with a different pitch or width. I will bring Thurs.
Tuning Action Items:
— Lightly glue rear tires on wheels.
— Carefully true off the treads on the stock/OEM rear tires.
— Optionally- Replace front wheels with Slot.It alloy 15.8×8.2 wheels (W1580-8215A, W15808225A, WH1183, WH1184, WH1210) front tires with Slot.It SIPT15 17x10mm ZeroGrips
— Add 3mm dia grub screws (Kings does Not have them) to the chassis pan to adjust body and skirt height to prevent hitting the track in the hairpin and hillclimb. See Russells earlier posts [11940][11930][11903]
— Add 0.5mm spacer to guide shaft (to prevent pop-out de-slot in corners)
— Adjust axle grub screws to barely fly the front tires 0.5 to 1mm (credit card) over track.
— Experiment with adding 1-3gm weight in nose/guide area (prevent pop-out de-slot)
— These must remain stock: body, chassis, pod, pinion, crown, motor, axles"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose
