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All, I just took a first look at the car. Out of the box, I could tell something was rubbing inside as I manually turned the rear wheels. The stock stop collar is too wide for the corresponding cavity in the body. As I would rather not grind the body, can we allow aftermarket stop collars? It looks like one could also sand the stock stop collar but I am not sure how much material can be removed/if it would work given the thickness of the grub screw.

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I’ll race this fella:

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I was imagining driving through it, and it seems very fluid. I can’t wait to see a video recording of a run. As aways, incredible workmanship.

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Russell,

Impeccable work; as always.

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Russell,

Thank you for all the work reporting the series!

Although the final podium is correct, I noticed an issue with the numbers. When I add all my results, dropping the worst result (round 3 – 17), the total is 100 points (21+20+20+20+19), not 98.

 

Ary

 

 

 

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[quote=13189]Curious about this rule in this series: Front axle lower adjustment caps allowed I’ve been searching for these, without any luck. And it would suggest that if one was to apply lower adjustment caps, they’d just make the front suspension floppy, since we are not allowed to change the tops of the front suspension (I have the Lancia and Mercedes, and neither have screw holes on the top of the suspension bearings as are shown in the “how to” videos). Can someone enlighten me here before I have to tech anyone? [/quote]

Erik,

Slot.it’s first generation chassis did not include the front axle screw adjustment – in fact, there was no way to properly adjust the height.

In the first gen chassis the max height of the front axle was fixed – determined by the height of the front axle support arches. The lower height limit could be adjusted by the removal of a plastic cap that was mounted in a fixed height support in the chassis – which in turn dictated the lower limit.

I have attached a PDF review of the Lancia LC2 84 created by David Kennedy for Slot Car Illustrated where you can see the first gen chassis and the “axle adjustment. Note that although he does not mention it, removing the plastic cap would introduce a massive amount of vertical play in the front axle.

My honest suggestion, given that your chassis do not have top adjustment, would be to simply buy the latest iteration of chassis for that specific model – it will have the top and bottom adjustments.

 

Attachments:

1. Review-_-Slot-it-Lancia-LC2-_BP-Malardeau_-SlotCarIllustrated.com_.pdf

[Autorama]

All,

I have adjusted the body float gap thickness.

Now,

Should we adjust the tire diameter to 1mm smaller than the current requirements? From 20 rear and 19 front, to 19 rear and 18 front?

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Steve, I am not sure about what would be the best way to describe it in the rules but need to add that we allowed the removal of the “cup” portion of the mounting posts.

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I will bring Mediterranean appetizers and, possibly, desert as well.

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[quote=11193]I second the nom for Shawn for Pres. I nominate both David Cass and myself for VP. I nominate Ary for Secretary. I nominate Russel for Treasurer // if that spot is also open. [/quote][quote=11241]I nominate Alex for Secretary. [/quote][quote=11243]I nominate Marty to continue as Treasurer [/quote]

Why are you guys nominating other people for office?

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Ok,

Using the plastic wheels is out of the question. Not because the wheels are not round or because the tires do not fit well; the issue is simply that I cannot figure out a way to true tires on plastic wheels.

Taking the wheels out is a bad idea as it may enlarge the axle hole. Leaving them on, and trying to true using the Tire Razor truer is possibly just as bad – that truer is wrong in so many ways, I will save the “review” for later.

Anyhow, we can still race a Carrera based GT series but we would have to change the wheels; not what I had in mind.

 

 

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Marty,

Wheels are round and the rear tires suggested fit nicely — fit better than the original front tires, but we can change that in the future.

I’m still working in the car but should have it ready by Saturday.

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[quote=11183]— “Factory stock” Carrera GT Class: WEC /IMSA – year range TBD but definitely no cars prior to 2013. I will be sharing more details during the club meeting. [/quote]

I’m ready to share the details:

“Factory Stock” Carrera GT Class (2015 to 2017):

–  Analog models without magnet + stock everything (wheels, motor, gears, etc).
– CG Slotcars Carrera guide adapter + Slot.it wood guide.
– NSR 5230 Supergrip (20.5 x11) rear tires + Stock front tires.
– Polarity switch can be removed and wiring replaced.
– Chassis sanding is allowed for float but gap should not be larger than the thickness of a credit card.

Models:

— Aston Martin Vantage V12

— Audi R8 LMS

— BMW M6 GTLM

— Chevrolet Corvette CR7

— Ferrari 458

— Ferrari 488

— Ford GT RC

— Lamborguini Huracan

Additional details:

Are you crazy? Stock gearing, plastic wheels??

Ok, as far as the plastic wheels go — yeah, we need to give it a try. I have checked the wheels of 10 or so Carrera cars I have purchased in the past 4 to 5 years and found all to be round and centered.

Now, instead of changing the car gearing, each racer will be able to change the voltage of their lanes. We would still be limited to the power supply range (6 to 16 volts) but that is plenty to allow all cars, regardless of weight, to reach their maximum potential.

_____________

Car list may be changed.

More details on the attached spreadsheet.

Attachments:

1. CARRERA-GT-CLASS.xlsx

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— “Factory stock” Carrera GT Class: WEC /IMSA – year range TBD but definitely no cars prior to 2013.

I will be sharing more details during the club meeting.

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Marty,

No suspension kits allowed, and no nail polish either. 🙂

Please consider the 917 rules:

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