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/posted by Mark for Randy and John.
1. Group-F type series (like 2017 Spring Classic Laguna Seca): Combined running of 1983-2007 World SportsCar Championship, LMPs, and 1966-72 Can-Am cars.
2. CanAm (its been three years-2014 since our last)
3. Modern WEC and IMSA Prototypes (like the WeatherTech Series)
4. Slot.It Ford GT-40 Mk-1 & Mk-II"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrosea) I suggest we clearly define what is an “irregularity”.
b) We should also consider them in regards to importance for (i) Technical fairness [i.e. does it clearly provide a technical advantage] (ii) authenticity of appearance or conformance to 1×1.
c) I suggest we vote on the rules – at least as a ‘feedback’ to the series manager.
Basically, if I am going to be dinged for cosmetics or a minor technical variance – I need to know in advance b/c otherwise I am f’ed. Speaking of such, if someone’s car is clearly several hundredths ahead of others (say, as tested by a netural 3rd party) it should be looked at – not necessarily DQ’ed. But if the car is hundredths slower – wtf is the impact of a variance, esp., if it may actually be a negative-advantage.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseSample Tuning (with expert help) that has produced multiple low to mid 4.1 s
— Appx 40:f/60:r weight distro
— Appx 4.5-6gm ballast – appx 3.5-4.5g in the center magnet holes in the pod, 1-1.5 on the nose to keep the guide from porpoising in the hairpin. Spread the ballast around. Too much weight on the nose produces a pendulum effect with hard tail whip in esses and hairpin.
— Cabin tub is close to the pod and can interfere with certain ballast methods and locations.
— Solder tabs on motor need to be very flat; wires should not be on top of motor
— Open air-ride channel has less hop in turns (than if filled with o-rings); Supergrips
— 20k motor — Gear-ratio: 2.6 to 2.7 — Rear wheel RPM: appx 7,000
— Tight pod (reduces hop)
NOTE: The torquey motor and Supergrips still combine to result in minor hops under a heavy or quick finger. Motor may climb out of pod during impacts under acceleration."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseDitto for Bobby – if he gets a third Sandeman-Piper 43 he needs to have a different number and perhaps some minor but obvious change to the livery (nose, tail, or cabin roof color or decal perhaps?)
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseSounds interesting Stevo. What about actually spec’ing the LMP motors to be in a certain range, say 22k min – 25k max, and perhaps models like Flat-6-RS and Boxer-2? Any ideas on spec’ing a particular motor pod orientation, say something challenging like anglewinder?
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontrosePer Jordan already has the Sandeman-Piper Green #43. So either Brett needs to choose a different car or paint the tail a different color or replace the race number. Spyder
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose917 2017 Dibs List Updated
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose917 2017 SERIES DIBS LIST
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose
Lancia Beta Monte – 51 – fruit-of-the-loom – Racer/Sideways
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseSorry Ary, but what is really changed? The Keel is the fin/blade and the longest part of the guide, hence the only component of the guide that could be visible from under the nose. Also, how is this different from any other series where the general rule is that – from above, you are not allowed to have any part of the guide (aka. the keel/blade) visible from under the body, spoiler or the chassis.
What am I not understanding … I do not understand the impact of the change b/c it appears there is no effective change.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseVoters-Remorse!
…yes I voted for the black medium chassis, but I have two and they both are warped (and I don’t want to get a taco like Dave got when he baked his Mosler chassis b/c it was warped).
Can we re-consider allowing the Green (ultra hard) and White (hard) chassis? Regarding the argument of keeping the cost down …… come on …. it’s an additional $10usd on top of what is already a $90 stock (and $120 if you include new motor, guide and spare tires) car.
If I have a $120 car I don’t want it’s performance compromised because I can’t add an $10 chassis.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseBrett dibs the Green #43 David Piper, Sandeman (NSR1092)
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose@Carrera Corvette update – My car ‘porpoised’ out of the slot in tight turns, I assume due to the stiff stock centering spring. I loosened it by prying the center legs out but that did not seem to help. I replaced the stock guide with a tongue from the HRS-2 chassis kit; but it is appx 3mm too shallow and thus requires a guide with a long shaft (e.g. ScaleAuto) and a 3mm thick spacer (e.g. a Scalextric case screw washer).
The car is very rear heavy, so I added 14gm behind the front axle in order to reach a 40/60 F/R balance. The 25k Yellow bell seems needed because she’s a slightly chubby girl, but when goosed in the wrong spot the rear-end can swing or hop.
I used a Lexan driver/cockpit, for a Ferrari 512bb; I used the side-chad to cover the rear area. Its passable, but bug-fugly compared to Russel’s cabin/driver! Lexan packing end-pieces from Racer cars worked very well for windshield and rear window.
The hardest issue is the front wheels/tires – the best solution was an independent wheel set from a Carrera Cheeta, with zero-grips – producing an 18d X 10w final size. (loaned to Rich for a while).
Rich’s Stingray has the stock guide but does not porpoise like mine; but seems to have other handling issues.
This is one hard to handle American Woman!!
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseGreat questions Randy! I am curious on the gurus ideas on the models – I would guess that lower and wider and lighter are a good baseline (e.g. MG, BMW), but curious about the wheelbase effect (e.g. are the MG and VW prone to fish-tail b/c of their length and wheelbase?)
The issues about the screw and wing rules is a recurring one. I agree that we should either – enforce them or re-write them or delete them (note we seem to arbitrarily enforce them on a case by case basis. These rules are rather verbose esp. since they rarely result in hazard penalties.) We should discuss these in a future monthly meeting.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseHigh tech Russell! The chassis looks like a great custom job also.
Blue-tack also helps keep wires attached to the chassis and to tune the “spring” tension on the guide. Little quarter inch blobs at the front of the chassis seem to work well.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose
