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I like the idea of the Revo-Slot spec series. After the Goodwood series, which I really enjoyed, already having all the cars I built out for it, I have not had time to assemble and test unfamiliar cars for other series. As has been said, maybe only tires and gears to change. Everyone should be on equal footing.
For other series, I like Can Am, a spec Ford GT Slot.it series, and Trans AM.David asked if a metal motor pod would be allowed for his racer. Unless there are objections, I will allow this.
What about the “pro” series of SCX like this one: https://www.132slotcar.us/store/product_info.php?cPath=22_47&products_id=2929
How much of an advantage is four wheel drive?
The “pro” series claims other benefits like aluminum wheels, lightweight body, and adjustability. I wanted the Sainz car but could take one of the pro cars if needed. Is this series of cars better?
Thanks
Shawn
How about this Citroen: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SCX-DIGITAL-13040-Citroen-XSARA-WRC-Sweden-/131954252259?hash=item1eb91619e3:g:siMAAOSwmfhX7Hrv
Thanks
Russell
Question about eligible cars: I was looking at Auto Art rally cars and came across several that would appear to be eligible models but have earlier liveries. Examples:
Mitsubishi Lancer from 2002 rally
Subaru Impreza from 2004 rally
Peugeot 206 from 2003 rally
Ford FocusRS from 2003 rally
Did these cars change from 2002-4 rallies to 2005+ rallies? Does the model have to be specified as a 2005-2015 livery? Is it specific to the car (Peugeot 206 changed but Ford FocusRS did not, etc.?) I see some cars do not specify year. If I come across others, should I ask before purchasing?
The interior of the Carrera Corvette is flat plastic, but unnecessarily thick. I recommend .010″ white styrene sheet, which is what I used on the GTOs and Jaguar. First use some index card to get the necessary shape and then transfer it to the plastic. The Carrera dash can be cut level with the flat plastic. The seat tops, which are all that are visible in the Carrera, can be also cut flush and glued to the platform. I also recommend a double bend in the plastic which will add rigidity to the thin plastic. I don’t care much for typical lexan interiors as they just look like a blob (which can be improved with detail painting).
I also recommend retaining the original windshield as this is liable to get pressed upon during a race and should be rigid. Great care must be taken in cutting the windshield away from the rest of the “glass”. Using a razor saw, make sure to make very straight cuts without any side stresses. Clear plastic does not have the plasticizers that colored plastic does and is very brittle; it will crack. The side windows and rear window can be replaced with .010″ clear styrene. For the Porsche 935 I built from a wind-up toy, this is what I did. I used strip styrene superglued to the inside of the body to make a frame for the glass (make sure the super glue has dried before adding the clear, so it does not fog).
The Porsche had a complicated (and unfinished) interior with styrene interior door panels and a vacuum-formed hump in the middle that cleared the motor and chassis. I scratchbuilt the dash, mocking it up with index card first, then using a photo of the instrument panel.
For those using a 3D printed chassis, here are some suggestions.
First of all, the printed chassis needed will depend on what car you have. For both the Fly Ferrari GTO and the Monogram Jaguar I used Shapeways/Olifer 3D printed chassis. Shapeways has a number of companies that they print chassis for, such as CG Slotcars and Slot.it 3D Print Shop. The Olifer chassis are the only ones I have. Here is a page of their products: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/3d_olifer?li=pb
Note that Olifer makes two different Ferrari GTO chassis, one which will accept either a sidewinder or inline motor pod and one which is listed as IL Pod. The inline pod chassis does not have the wider bump out at the rear and will require that bump out be cut off a Slot.it pod. The advantage is that the chassis is narrower, giving more room for tires and wheels. The regular chassis will require hubless wheels to fit under the GTO body. The Jaguar only comes with the narrow chassis. Olifer also makes printed inline pods that have already been narrowed. These motor pods have an adjustable rear axle height using the stock Slot.it spherical bushings. If the axle height is set to standard, inline with the motor shaft, regular crown gears will work. If the axle height is raised, offset crowns will be needed.
The front axle on the Olifer chassis will also use the Slot.it spherical bushings ( SICH56B, or robbed from another motor pod).
I like these adjustable axle setups.
For axles, any regular 3/32 axle will work. I am not sure of the length, maybe 48 or 51mm. I grabbed axles from my parts box. The ones I had were too long so I cut them.
For wheels and tires there are lots of options. One of the easiest, and the ones I used, were the Classic Wire Spoke Wheel and Tire sets from BRM, part number S106S. This includes 15 X 7 front wheels and 15 X 8 rear wheels with tires and the great looking wire wheel inserts. You can use these tires, after truing, or you could change the rear tires. Although it is not marked, I believe the rear tires in the set are 30 Shore. I used Slot.it tires on the rear, some F22s and some F15. BRM also has tires in those hardness. If you get BRM wheels make sure to get the wheels for 3/32 axles; they also make wheels for Ninco 2.5mm wheels.
For my original GTO with the GT40 chassis, there was not enough room for the hubbed BRM rear wheels, so I had to use CB Design hubless wheels. The only way to get the wire wheel inserts out of the BRM wheels was to carefully cut the BRM wheels. This also required shaving the inside of the CB Design wheels to get the insert to fit. With the narrow Olifer chassis, the BRM Wheels can be used as is.
You also have the option of using any other wheels and tires. You could use Slot,it wheels with whatever insert you wanted. The Slot.it Zero Grip front tires are pretty wide and may not fit. For my Jaguar, I created a rubber mold of the Monogram plastic wheels to create correct Jaguar cast resin inserts. These required some tweaking and I may not be able to create duplicates at reasonable cost.
You can use any inline motors that you want. I tried orange end bell, 25K motors and Flat-Six motors. They all worked reasonably well.
Randy,
Yes, it definitely helps to have a lot of cars. I will check wheelbases of Slot.it cars to see what might match up to a particular car and see how the body mounts might work. The Slot.it HRS chassis have adjustable wheelbases and will fit a number of cars, but I don’t use them much. They are bulkier and heavier. With any of these conversions, body mounts will have to be re-configured. The Fly Ferrari GTO turned out to work well. Other cars may not.
Of course, nowadays there are so many 3D printed chassis available that will bolt right in. That would be the best bet for a conversion. If you have a particular car that you want to race, the handbuilt conversion may be the only option until someone comes out with a printed chassis.
Yes, of course the Fly would need all the parts for a complete car where the NSR would at least, nominally, be complete, but the end results would be that the costs were similar.
Guys
Here are my thoughts on 2017 race series:
Goodwood Series–Based on my belief that the series was based on the original races, I had already selected a car that I thought would be an extremely competitive car–a Strombecker Lotus 30 with a Slot.it GT 40 chassis. Just like the Fly Ferrari GTO, the GT40 chassis looked like a perfect fit. After talking with Ary about a coupe-only series and reviewing my Doug Nye book on Goodwood, I agree that roadsters like the Lotus would be more competitive than the coupes. That, plus the fact that they only ran the prototypes with the GT cars in 1964, I think the Goodwood series should be coupes only. This will result in a (hopefully) competitive series. Car options would include the myriad of FlyFerrari GTOs with either a GT40 chassis as I described in my how-to article (only with an inline motor instead of sidewinder) or the Shapeways Olifer or similar chassis. The Fly Ferraris are available for $50-$60 plus the chassis. Fly also has a Ferrari 250LM. There are Revell/Monogram Daytona Cobras and lightweight Jaguar E-types and vintage Monogram Ferrari 250 LM and Revell 289 Cobras with hardtops. If someone wanted more variety there are a lot of MMK cars available or a variety of Racer cars as well. I will bring my Goodwood book to the next event. It has vintage photos as well as photos and full race results for all the Revival races from 1998 to 2007.
Porsche 917–I disagree that the Fly/Shapeways series would be more expensive/difficult than the NSR series. There are a great variety of Fly 917’s available for $40-$60 plus a $15 chassis where the NSR’s are $80-$100. As for the Fly interior, it is easy to put in a flat sheet interior with a driver head and arms and an upper dash. I think either series would work.
More comments later
I’m starting to think this is more trouble than its worth. By the VDS Z4 do you mean #SC-7059? And what’s the Japanese car? The Scale Auto website does not list any R4 chassis on Z4s. The #SC-7059 is listed with a SC-8000 R2 chassis. 132SlotCar.us doesn’t say crap about the chassis, although they do list numbers for chassis parts.
