Concors:
— Some small brass eyelets (a size smaller than we use for 1/32 guide motor wires) make great ‘nostrils’ in the Vipers air scoop where racing versions have pipes feeding the airfilter. To emphasize them I painted the scoop cutout a bright red.
— The baffles for the side air vents (for the front wheel wells) DO NOT fit the studs in the body. I had to cut the studs down and use a notch in the bottom of the shell (which did fit correctly) to snap in the baffles. BTW – out of the parts bag these baffles look at first like splitters but there is no obvious place to fit them on the nose of the car.
Rear Axle Spacers.
The stock wheels – made for rubber tires fit – but the sponge wheels are a different dimension and dont. Correct the spacing as follows:
1. Build right/passenger/nondrive side with (a) 2x long spacers (b) either an 1/16in plastic washer/spacer or 2-3 metal spacers.
2. Build left/spur side with (a) 1x short spacer. (Alternately: The spur spacer does not seem to be really needed and there are no obvious rules prohibiting it from being removed/left off.)
3. Use motor mounts to adjust gear lash. Dont use axle or gear spacers.
Guide spacers.
— Front tires need to touch track, but the blade needs to be as deep as can be (its not as deep as some other wood guides).
The 1/24s seem to easily ‘porpise’ out of the slot in some wavy parts of the track (hairpin and coming out of turn-1).
— Use some spacers to drive the blade down, so that the front tires just barely touch.
— To prevent the nut from working loose, put some LokTite on the guide threads and let it dry before adding nut. Put one thin spacer on top as a washer to improve movement. Lube it lightly.
— Get advice from Marty or Russ.
— The motor wires are a weird stiffness, its hard to get them to consistently auto-center the guide. I moved the shrinktape back to the motor so the wires were looser up near the guide.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose