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Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
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    ANSWERS from Ary, Marty, and others (thanks guys!)
    1. Dimensions for:
    a. Braid Recess: Depth is 1.1mm (for 1/4″ braid), channel is 3/4″
    b. Guide Slot: 1/8″ x 9mm deep.

    2. If we do not need any magnetic downforce, is there any problem with using copper tape?
    ANSWER: Copper tape works great for conductivity and is super easy to put on and does not require any additional routing for the braid. You can just rout the guide slot with a 1/8″ router bit, paint it and then put on copper tape. (no channel needed)

    3. Who are good sources for braid or tape?
    ANSWER: Braid: Jim Honneycut at Magnatech Raceway in San Antonio. He will also have the 3M double sided tape you will need to apply it.
    Tape: Blue Moon Stain Glass store here in Austin.

    4. Does the braid/tape need to be glued or taped? Use 3M double sided tape.

    5. For a total length of 28 ft
    a. How much paint is needed? 1 gallon (2 coats).
    b. What kind of paint, epoxy, latex? We used latex eggshell for the road track.
    c. Is a special primer needed? Primer for Latext.
    d. Application Method: hand brushing, spray gun? Brushing will be fine. Track must be painted before any braid or copper tape is put down.

    5. Would CNC routing be cost effective? Maybe not. CNC setup for what you want will cost around $300, cutting cost will depend on how long it will take.

    6. Any other considerations or recommendations?
    A. Plastic track will be significantly more affordable and quicker, especially for the first time in a non-official event. We can design an MDF track if there is enough interest to do this again in the future.

    B. After the traps, a short dead spot (3in of no braid) is needed, followed by non-powered braid/tape that is shorted across the pickups-this will provide controller-less braking.

    C. You will also need to find a timing system. For drag races you need sensors at the beginning and end of a run (if distance beween starting tree and timing trap is 22ft, you need cables that long between the sensors and timing computer.

    D. A Commercial Power supply needed, such as a Pyramid.

    E. Controller stations are needed with XLR females.

    F. Foam and perhaps side rails may be needed in the shutdown area to catch cars.

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    BarkingSpyder

    At 4-years old in Pensacola I repaired my steering linkage on my Ford Pedal-car. Dad later converted this car to a Blue Angel with ailerons and elevators with a working "stick/yoke"; the rudder was controlled by the steering wheel. I like all motorsports - I grew up going to a NASCAR Feeder track with Sportsman and Modified classes, and was lucky to attend drag races in 1970 at Orange County Raceway. My first solder-iron was a Christmas gift at 9yo; I modified T-Jets to be AFX spec before AFX Cars were in local stores. I rebuilt a few tractor & car (SIMCA) engines plus transmissions by 15yo (I still have my ring-compressor and valve spring tool) I am a former mountain and road bike geek & perennial sound engineer. Struggling guitar hobbyist and Amp "tweeker"