Steve do you have specifics as to what is commonly a challenge? Better yet – do you have a recommendation for another car as backup? I got this car almost for free so I figured I’d try it out. I considered using an HRS2 chassis but initial fit checks made it seem a lot less hassle to use the stock chassis. What I did to the 512BB so far:
— Swapped out 32k@14.5v motor for broken-in Slot It Yellow-bell tach-measured as 24,800@11v, geared at 10/32 for an estimated 7,750 top rear wheel speed.
— Shaved some metal off the motor can b/c the stock position for the rear bushings was slam up against the can and jammed the rear axle. Poor design of the chassis – they had plenty of room to have put the bushing mounts well away from the motor but I guess they were in a hurry!? Stock plastic bushings were very flimsy and I guess let the motor fit fine and not bind the axle. The chassis is the typical thin, brittle, flexy styrene, similar to Scalextrics.
— Hollow rear axle and 15×8 rear wheels with P6s for shakedown runs and F30s for racing.
— Kept stock front axle & hubs b/c the stock front tires have similar profile (and compound?) as NoGrips (and the hubs will explode if I try to pull them off – they are glued on extremely tight!) Front axles comes with stock 6mm grub screws and height adjustment slots.
— Replaced guide with wood guide, plus new motor wire with eyelets.
— Trimmed chassis edge slightly to remove contact with body. ….but you cant get much float on this body b/c of the 4 sided body posts. No weights at this time. Full RTR weight not yet verified.
— Had to trim bottom of the cockpit insert to allow wires to be routed and to ease body mounting (it is very finicky out of the box).
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose