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Autorama wrote:turboman93 wrote:
I’m in. 2 man team using the same car. Would you set minimum lap times to make it more about consistency?
Shawn, please explain.
Setting a minimum lap time helps to allow slower cars to be competitive with the faster cars. Let’s say that the minimum lap time is 4.1s. Any lap time that is faster doesn’t count. Not sure if our timing system can do that but I’m hoping it can. It then makes it more about being consistent than just all out fast. Just like a real endurance race.
-Shawn
A question of rules interpretation:
If I were to use the first race as my throw out race, would I be allowed to enter a different car for the remaining races (Mickey Mouse 956)? Just wonderin’……
Thanks,
Jim J.
I’m in for this, but our fridge is nowhere big enough to “fuel” a race of this duration with beer and sodas 😀 .
I’m in. 2 man team using the same car. Would you set minimum lap times to make it more about consistency?
Please remove my points as I’m not eligible for points. I don’t want to take away points from the people that are officially in this series.
For classic F1, are the skinny tire cars part of the equation? Either way, I am in favor of retaining the button magnets.
Classic GT would also be cool. I am anxious to see the list of classic GT’s.
My .02 cents worth….
Jim J.
I’m all in for the Classic GT. I would suggest Ninco and Carrera with a NC8 spec motor. Non-magnet of course.
Shawn,
Excellent tips, thank you. I have several white body kits and rattle cans of Tamiya paint and primer. The only thing I’m missing is Tamiya clear. I was thinking of trying the Future floor “wax” for the clear coat. I’ve read you can spray it thru your airbrush straight out of the bottle without diluting it, and you have water/windex cleanup. It flows out real nice, and presents a pretty durable finish once dried.Jim J.
Thanks, Jim! Before I start, I wash the body with dishwashing liquid to remove any left over oil from the molding process. I use primer first to help smooth out some of the rough areas in the body. I use the Tamiya white fine primer for this. I have made a stand from a Slot.it body screw epoxied on the end of a chop stick. This allows for the body to be raised and still able to paint the bottom part of the body. I’ll mist the first 2 coats of the base color them 1-3 coats of medium spray. I tend to wait a day before actually painting once the primer is on. I’ll mask the car off for any other paint work like the interiors on the Porsches and the headlight buckets. I use the Tamiya making tape as it’s easy to apply and remove. Once that’s done, I’ll leave overnight and follow the next day with the decals. Allow the decals to dry overnight and then spray the clear over the entire body like the base paint. Once that has been allowed to dry, assemble the rest of the body parts.
Shawn,
Once again, two excellent paint jobs. They look far better in person than what the photos depict.
I forgot to ask you yesterday, do you prime the bodies first, and if so, with Tamiya primer? I was wondering if white bodies could be painted without the primer if they were first washed with Simple Green and plenty of warm water to remove any traces of mold release still on the body?
Thanks.
Jim J.
