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Mark,
Running a 6.9 is not that impressive when you look at the times that were run in the last rally series. One lap at 6.9 seconds does not a five minute heat make. There is much more to it than just one lap that is really not that impressive. If it were a 6.5 or 6.6 that would be a different thing.
You can get the Wera versions from Alan at 132slotcar.
Wera 118040 TX 5 x 40mm s/driver for TORX
Wera 118042 TX 6 x 40mm s/driver for TORX
Mark,
I have no issue with someone asking a question about car set up or for clarification of the rules but when they are so clearly stated I have trouble taking the time to answer a question that is irrelevant. You asked about adding carbon fiber parts and the rules clearly state:
GENERAL RULES – MODIFICATIONS
- All Scaleauto cars must run with the stock chassis they come with.
- No Scaleauto chassis tuning parts are allowed.
I don’t know how there can be any ambiguity in what was stated. These rules were created to keep cost in check and to make tech inspection of the cars easier. There is no need to ask a question about something that has already been clearly addressed in the rules.
I don’t have any superior knowledge of how the SC-8000 will compare to the SC-8003. I have run the SC-8000 cars for many hours but have less than 10 minutes on the SC-8300. I don’t know how it will work. No one yet knows what chassis will be the quickest. As I have stated before, I believe it will come down more to set up than to the chassis selected.
If I have not already answered your Q2 – yes, the rules are written to keep both chassis stock. This has nothing to do with Tom’s track and has everything to do with cost and ability to quickly tech the cars. These cars are expensive enough without purchasing numerous axle mounts, motor mounts, bearings, axles, H plates and more to find out what works and what does not.
- All Scaleauto cars must run with the stock chassis they come with.
- No Scaleauto chassis tuning parts are allowed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2aMP1sO1ErE
Mark,
Why is it important to ask what the advantage of adding illegal carbon fiber parts are to a SC-8000 chassis? What can be gained from the time someone would take to answer this question? If its illegal then there is no reason to even ask the question. Period.
The SC-8300 chassis is 11 grams lighter and that is not always a positive thing, Only time running them will let us know. As this point I don’t think either chassis has an advantage. I think its more up to set up than the chassis model.
Mark and All,
Just to clarify the rules – you are not allowed to use any chassis modification parts. All chassis must run in there stock configuration. If you are running a full steel SC-8000 chassis you are not allowed to add or modify it by using any carbon fiber parts. If you are running the newer SC-8003 chassis you must run in it the stock configuration with no modifications to the chassis.
Marty
Non-racing social event? Did someone say go karting? Driveway, COTA or K2. There is also the idea of dinner and drinks as well. I like the thinking.
Here are the items I would like to add to the agenda:
A discussion of the Scaleauto series and go over the basic rules, how to prepare the car and body and discuss when we can start practicing with the foam tires.
Discuss the rules for the NSR rally series along with the proposed practice dates.
Any updates on Tom Schaffer’s track.
Any Carrera series updates.
Landscaping dates for the calendar
I am good with opening the rules up more and running any motor style and in any configuration. The point of having just one option is one of cost. If we open it up and someone is winning wiht a different option then everyone goes out and spends more money to make their car as identical to the winners as possible. I think with such a new track and having no defined perfect set up it would be better to spend time driving and less on ordering.
Marty
Straight roads are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers. Colin McRae
All – I have run the full gamut of tires made available for Scaleauto cars that are either rubber or urethane. I have been unsuccessful in getting any to work nearly as well as the foam tires. Shawn has ordered some additional tires to try and we will see how those work. The weight of the cars makes it really hard on rubber tires. The BRM’s are lighter and you can use rubber tires although they do wear quickly.
You can practice with rubber tires and a magnet if you want but I would suggest just running the stock rubber tires without magnet until we are ready to make the move to foam tires. If you can do well with the rubber tires you will kill it with the foam tires.
I would stick with running the Scaleauto’s in Q3 during the summer and then clean the track before we run the Carrera series or agree to run foam tires on those cars as a trial run.
Randy – I don’t know what the best format is for letting you know what the best Scaleauto cars are for the track. Different driving styles can play into this decision to where what works for me does not work for you. You should test drive as many of the club members cars as you can and make your decision that way. For any of us to tell you what car to get could only work for us and then totally screw everyone else up as they all run to get a Viper or an Audi when what really works for you is the Porsche. If you feel good about a car you can start there. What cars do you like? Try the one you like and see how it is to drive. In closely matched series it can be the mental side of how you feel about what you are driving over what some people say is fast.
The Porsche was a birthday present from my wife. She purchased it from Pendle and it came with a set of foam wheels/tires for free.
All – If we are going to double up on a race I would rather see it on the 12th and move the club meeting to the 19th. My reasoning – if your Thunderslot car is not working well you will have to run two races with it if we double up on the 19th. If we race them on the 12th and you have an issue you have the whole week to sort it out before running it again. Thoughts?
Marty
Here is what lane spacing looks like between 1/32 and 1/24 scale cars.
I tested my new Scaleauto Porsche 911 – box stock, no trued tires – and was able to get it to perform very well with the stock rubber un-trued tires. I tried my older chassis Porsche 911 and the performance was completely different. The new chassis far out performed the old one. Looking forward to see how it can run with trued tires and a tuned chassis.
Without any additional testing I would highly recommend us allowing the new carbon fiber chassis. The adjustable front axle helps keep the rear tires flat. If you are going to buy a new car you might as well make it the nicer one since there is very little cost difference. Thoughts?
