BarkingSpyder

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  • in reply to: Hello from Germany #9318
    Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
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      Holger did you come to ATX yet?  We are on North Lamar – Kings Hobby Shop -check the website schedule. Mark L

      "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
      Sammy with Montrose

      in reply to: Hello from Germany #9315
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        Great looking track Holger!  We are in Austin, 330km (180mi) South of Dallas, 330km West of Houston. Club track is in Kings Hobby, appx 7km North of downtown Austin on Lamar Boulevard.  We practice Thurs evenings 18:00-21:00, race on Sat 12:00 to 15:00. You may be able to borrow a spare car if you want to enter the race. We have races 13-Aug and 20-Aug.

        "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
        Sammy with Montrose

        in reply to: 2 entrys for same race #9229
        Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
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          Lance – re the race control software – yes it randomizes as a suggestion, but Steve can over-ride it (we do that to have a specific person race first so they can leave early if they have a family obligation et al.)   So – if its allowed – and you do enter two cars – you can be setup to race different cars in different heats.  But more manipulation may be needed, depending on how many people are entered.

          Least complicated solution – race different cars on different days.

          "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
          Sammy with Montrose

          in reply to: 2 entrys for same race #9196
          Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
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            Lance & Marty we will have this on the agenda for the June 25 meeting.  Lance that is a day for Modern Touring car (I forget if you have one) but come up to ATX anyway so we can see you!

            My 2-cents ($2.84 in todays money) – you can Build and Race more than one car – But generally not on the Same day. It is a little confusing to competitors and marshalls, but as your experience should show will be most confusing to you – since for each race you would have to mentally adjust to the performance of the different cars and the related controller settings.  So, if it’s a day we only have 5 racers (our bare minimum) perhaps we could add the 2nd car under a 2nd racer name for another $5 fee.

            However, that situation can be seen as a little unfair b/c one racer is having twice the fun and does not have time to marshall, so everyone else marshalls more than ‘their fair share’.

            Again – we will add to agenda for June 25.

            "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
            Sammy with Montrose

            Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
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              The SVQ chassis has a flimsy nylon sleeve glued inside a thin ring of carbon-fibre. The guide rocks because the sleeve is not thick enough to give a tight fit with the typical shaft of a Slot.It or ScaleAuto guide. With the added mass of the stainless chassis and the power of the long-can motors it’s not hard to break this flimsy Guide-Boss.  Preventative or restorative reinforcement can be done with a metal patch.  (1) Alejandro has CNC’ed some aluminum plates appx 2mm thick that can be bonded to the top of the carbon-fibre.  Dremel to fit – keep some ‘wings’ to reinforce the strut area.

              Alexs Alum Plate-2

              (2) I have used some 1/24 brass tongues (1.5mm thick) with brass tubing soldered together into a patch I bond with epoxy to the bottom of the chassis (it can also be bonded on top).  The tubing is 5mm (6/32) outside diameter (4mm – 5/32 ID) – by 4mm tall. BTW the guide becomes incredibly smooth in its sweep and has no forward-back rocking.

              BrassPlate with Brass Tube-2

              Again, Dremel to fit and keep some ‘wings’ to support the struts/suspension arms. When mounting below the chassis, paint the bare brass with nail polish or enamel to prevent shorts, (do not paint below the guide b/c it will bind).

              "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
              Sammy with Montrose

              in reply to: Scaleauto Endurance Race in Dallas #9165
              Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
              Participant

                Marty, I am on the fence.  In spite of my generally horrible skills I enjoy the track, like the guys from Tyler, and altho it’s a long day – like to hang around and drag race (and I have new car to try…) and talk to some of the friends I have made up there.

                "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                Sammy with Montrose

                Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
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                  NEXT TIME WE RACE THESE

                  Based on our experience I request we consider these changes in specs:

                  1. We use the aluminum ScaleAuto motor pod (to prevent carrier strut breakage).
                  2. We allow Slot It (PA20-AL) or Slotting-Plus (SP02195) F1 hubs.
                    My experience with the AllSlot hubs is that the threads in the hub for the grub screw seem to strip easy (I have three pairs of AllSlot wheels where One of the pair has stripped threads). The PA20s have a solid hub so no more need for o-rings and the weirdness matching tire diameters during truing when the tire pushes down into the airhub channel (even when o-rings are present) and marbles itselft to death.
                    PA20s have a 12mm dia rim, 14.5mm diam nub, 11.5mm wide with a 6mm wide nub/nib. The AllSlots measure the same with a 7mm nib. The NSR 5020? tires have a 7mm nib-slot but seem to fit tight and centered on the PA20s. Maybe some glue or one o-ring could be used if they were to slip.
                    The SP021950s (aka. SLPL40114512 ) use a 2.5grub. They are spec’ed at 14.5dia-nub at 12mm wide rim. I used these on a custom project and they are durable and good looking wheels.

                  "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                  Sammy with Montrose

                  Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
                  Participant

                    The AllSlot Formula GP rear body post is only connected to the engine cowl with three thin stips of plastic.  In a hard crash if these crack the body can jam on the crown and lead to extreme problems. Damage can possibly be prevented bonding piano wire (5/64 or thinner) to join the back of the post to the body and to reinforce the other bridges to the wing-T.  A wire on the bottom of the wing-T can be used to prevent flexing of the wing-mount.Wingpatch-Top-1 Wingpatch-Top-2 Wingpatch-Side-1

                    "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                    Sammy with Montrose

                    Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
                    Participant

                      Ary et al. – can we consider allowing the ScaleAuto 1/32 plastic pod (SC-6523) as an alternative to the Slot.It pod?  This pod seems to have a more solid area around (below) the bushings and maybe it will be less likely to crack.  It costs $12 in the US.

                      https://www.professormotor.com/product-p/sc-6523.htm

                       

                      "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                      Sammy with Montrose

                      Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
                      Participant

                        The Slot.It long-can inline motor pod we are using has a gap below the bushing carrier and a medium size leading strut and tiny trailing strut.  The mass of the steel chassis can easily break the struts in a hard crash (and can bend your axle).  This happened to Marty, Dave and I.  To prevent the struts from cracking, remove the rear axle and fill the little triangle gap under the bushing with Epoxy or Bond-IC. DO NOT use CA/superglue. ShoeGoo may work ….  Realize that this is a preventative patch and has not been tested yet.

                        If you use Bond-IC you must cure it with its UV light. Epoxy needs to cure overnight. Wait until the material has cured before re-assembly otherwise you may either get some in the bushing carrier or weaken it with axle  lube.  Good Luck!IMG_20160424_154409226

                        "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                        Sammy with Montrose

                        in reply to: 2016 Tech Log Blank Template #9059
                        Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
                        Participant

                          Blank template located at:  Tech Log Template

                          Instructions:

                          Don’t edit the blank template – download it for your specific series.

                          Update racers and inspection criteria per your series.

                          WHEN ENTERING Data – strike thru people not racing. Add guests (Alex/railgun, Max M, Roy, Austin etc. )

                          Optionally – Upload either the sheet or the image as part of the race results.

                          "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                          Sammy with Montrose

                          in reply to: Tools and Supplies #9004
                          Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
                          Participant

                            A drill chuck for the Dremel grinder is installed. It can handle very small bits and bits up to appx 1/8in//3mm. Extra collets are also added, JIC a small bit spins in the chuck – the collets may grab better.

                            "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                            Sammy with Montrose

                            in reply to: ASCC Club Meeting Summary – Dec 2015 #8757
                            Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
                            Participant

                              In the minutes it was incorrectly stated that the new Formula GP chassis needed the offset motor pod – that is not true – see Ary’s post on the new chassis for all the details.

                              "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                              Sammy with Montrose

                              in reply to: Touring car addition #8755
                              Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
                              Participant

                                The Avant Slot Subaru Impreza is listed in the acceptable model table. It is an AWD with a long can inline motor and impressive engineering. It looks like a change of the guide and the rear wheels/tires are the major mods needed. I just want to confirm that these cars are legal for the Touring Series and what if any mods are needed (to convert from rally to touring -other than remove the Navigator).

                                https://www.ebay.com/itm/Avant-Slot-51007-Subaru-Impreza-N14-Global-Rally-4×4-11-Limited-Edition-1-32-/111717435476
                                https://www.google.com/search?q=avant+slot+subaru+impreza&biw=1440&bih=771&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwib34eZk4TKAhWBZCYKHbQhCTsQ_AUIBigB&dpr=1#imgrc=Ex6udCGA_mFjiM%3A

                                "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                                Sammy with Montrose

                                in reply to: ASCC Club Meeting Summary – June 2015 #8751
                                Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
                                Participant

                                  Minutes from June 13 attached. Somehow not added during the original update.

                                  "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                                  Sammy with Montrose

                                Viewing 15 posts - 466 through 480 (of 533 total)