BarkingSpyder

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  • in reply to: 2020 Thunderslot Discussion #15195
    Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
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      CORRECTION ON MINUTE DETAILS OF “USELESS MATH TRICKS”
      COMPARING THE MICROSCOPIC BUT SIGNIFICANT DIFFERENCE BETWEEN NSR/THUNDERSLOT AND SLOT.IT 3/32IN AXLES

      Slot.IT Axles
      3/32in = 0.09375 X 25.4 = 2.38125mm Axle Diameter

      NSR/Thunderslot Axles
      2.37mm/25.4 = 0.9333 x 32in = 2.9858 [2.99/32 inch]

      *2.54 is the conversion factor to multiply inches to get metric equal

      "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
      Sammy with Montrose

      in reply to: Schedule 2020 #15194
      Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
      Participant

        As of 9/1
        ThunderSlot Schedule
        #4 Sept 5
        #5 Sept 19
        #6 Oct 3
        Planning Oct 10

        "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
        Sammy with Montrose

        in reply to: EQUIPMENT UPDATES – March 2020 #15186
        Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
        Participant

          NEW TRACK CLEANING TRUCK
          A few years ago I received a Gulf-livery race truck as a gift. I added the yoke for a Swifter(tm)(cr) pad, a routed-track guide, and some weights over the guide and the yoke.
          With a fresh Swifter and five laps on each lane the basic dust layer is easy & Fun to remove.
          ** Make sure to fluff the swifter feathers Back – away from the tires!

          "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
          Sammy with Montrose

          in reply to: 2019 Slot.it Group C #15184
          Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
          Participant

            FOR VIEWERS OF OUR FORUMS – here are common upgrade or spares for Slot.IT Series, esp. Group-C

            SOFT REAR TIRES – SIPT28 > F30 … “normal” Shore-30 rear tires for 15mmD x 10mmW wheels (aka PT28)
            No-Prep – we are a “dry” track
            ZERO GRIP FRONT TIRES – SIPT07 > ZO // 10×18.8 (aka PT07) Nail polish is allowed in some series, prohibited in others. Truing the Zero-grips seems to work better than ‘glazing’. Front tires are flown 0.25 to 1mm off the track as measured on a setup block with a 0.10-15in braid recess.

            ‘WOOD’ GUIDE SICH-07 Routed-track Pickup-Shoe with fixing screw; 7mm Deep vs. OEM 5mm depth (aka CH07)
            Eyelets/cups are used instead of OEM 2mm grubs to fix the motor wires to the pickup braids.

            WHEELS (fit the F30s) // fixed to axle by 2mm Grub screws (uses 0.91~.95mm Allen wrench)
            W17309715A **stock on many cars** – 17.3D x 9.75W mm rear Wheels; solid center nub/nib
            W15810215AF 15.8D x 10.2W mm rear Wheels; double shoulder (open center nub), lightweight
            *F30s fit wheels from 15 to 17mm Dia, 8 to 10mm Width wheels of any brand (common sizes 15.8×8, 16.5×8.2, 15.8×10, 17×8, 17×10) 14d x 11w are only allowed in Formula series.

            CROWN DRIVE GEARS (for In-line pods usually with small-can Mabuchi FA130 aka S-Can motors)
            SIGI23 .. Pink – 23 teeth aka 23z – fastest and hardest to tune
            SIGI24 .. Green – 24z – very fast
            SIGI25 .. Orange – 25z – fast – often a good choice for GP-C and other inline cars
            SIGI26 .. Blue – 26z – faster than the stock OEM Black 27z
            SIGI28 .. Yellow – 28z – slower than OEM black; use for a motor that is “too hot” (~ tached at over 20k RPM at 11 v)

            COMMON SPEC MOTOR
            SI MX-16 – 23k rpm 170g-TQ  FA130 aka S-Can (Short-can) Mabuchi style ‘D’ motor with plastic non-adjustable end-bell.  Smaller in size and less powerful than ‘long-can’  FK-180 ‘boxer’ style motors such as Hawk-7, Falcon, Phoenix, Eagle. These require a low-voltage burn-in (45min – 2 hrs @4-6v) and last 2-3 years as compared to a few months for the 1/24 motors.  Considered ‘sealed’ – magnets, brushes, armatures, bushings are not allowed to be upgraded, modified, or repaired.

            PINIONS
            For our track, often the best performance is from the OEM 9z pinion (Inline) and 11z (sidewinder and anglewinder)

            VOLTAGE & Rear Wheel RPM
            For our 55-foot lazy-8, mild hill-climb, most of our 1/32 RTR series handle best at 11 volts. For the larger 1/24 BRM and Scaleauto series, 12v is often used. In some 1/32 series with heavy cars or low-torque motors we may also use 12v.
            RPM- best performance on our track seems to occur with tach’ed rear-wheel RPMs of 7,500 – 7,800; for some cars and some drivers up to 8k – 8.2k is manageable, but this is NOT common.
            *These results are for plastic-chassis, ‘scale’ 1/32 ready-to-race (RTR) cars weighing on average between 60-80 grams.

            "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
            Sammy with Montrose

            in reply to: Schedule 2020 #15183
            Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
            Participant

              My vote – Q4 proxy – Slot.It McLaren. Good running cars, not much different technically from the Group-C, easy to restore from the garage box, easy to buy if needed. As John commented last year, 12v seemed a “little hot” for these cars so I propose we race at 11v, just like 97.8% of the other Slot.IT series.
              Q1 – Group-C JIC we get some potential new members, and it requires minimal prep esp. during the typically busy month of Dec.

              p.s. Posting with the new version of WordPress is a PAIN. I never know if my post will save or not, and yes I am using Chrome so it’s not the browser. It’s also a real big pain for a formum post if you try to attach or insert Images, Files and any URLs.

              "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
              Sammy with Montrose

              in reply to: 2020 Thunderslot Discussion #15181
              Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
              Participant

                Attached is a table of the effective speed on our Thunderslots, as a combination of gear-ratios and tire diameter. This makes it obvious that it pays to measure your tires after a post-race clean-up true. The difference between a tire trued to 19mm and 19.5 is 0.5 MPH true scale and 16mph at 1/32 scale speed. 19.5mm vs 20mm = 0.4mph (13mph); 19-20mm = 0.9mph (29mph) difference.  The 20mm size is somewhat of an outlier though, because that’s effectively an untrued virgin tire on a 14.85-rib wheel; so the lower sizes are more significant.

                Another factor not covered here is that for the smaller diameter tires your magnetic-downforce should be higher; which is also affected by how loose your motor pod is (hence how close to the track it sinks).

                "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                Sammy with Montrose

                in reply to: Schedule 2020 #15148
                Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
                Participant

                  ThunderSlot Schedule
                  #3 Aug 22
                  #4 Sept 12
                  #5 Sept 26
                  Annual Planning Meeting Oct 10
                  #6 Oct 17

                  ?? Blacklight 10/31

                  "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                  Sammy with Montrose

                  in reply to: 2020 Thunderslot Discussion #15146
                  Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
                  Participant

                    My Lola spyder body is so warped (stop the snickering!) that it affects the front wheel heights and warps the chassis if the screws are ‘just tight enough’. Obviously affects the handling esp. in the esses and back straight.
                    This thing is twisted like a Mobius (or donut twist if you prefer)
                    Looking at the nose, the left front fender skirt is 2mm off the block/track.
                    Looking at the rear, the left fender wheel appears 2mm~3mm higher then the driver/right side.

                    I had a white kit for spares (since when we started racing these 3 years ago spares were very rare in the USA, or even at PSR). It’s body is also warped altho not as much (Fr 1mm Rr 0.5mm) as the painted one (Revson can-am). So, new spare body received from Cloverleaf this week … the MF is as warped as the original Revson!

                    Apparently this is not rare as a few blogs/boards have (not very enouraging) threads on the issue.
                    hrwforum.com/forum/-1-32-scale/18589-straightening-a-thunderslot-chassis

                    "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                    Sammy with Montrose

                    in reply to: 2020 Thunderslot Discussion #15145
                    Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
                    Participant

                      ShoeGoo seems to work best. Has a clean removal also.

                      Note that the 14.3×10 wheels (THRMR001AL) use a different grub screw 2.5mm
                      than the 14.9×10 wheels (THRMR002AL) 4-40.

                      Cloverleaf has the spurs and foam rim fillers in stock.
                      SPURS GE31SWP Blue, GE30SWP Orange $7   (1 per bag)
                      FOAM RIM RINGS – RMRFM001 $7  (4 per bag)

                      Calculated Rear-wheel RPMS (with No rollout, or tire diameter factored in)
                      32/11 = 2.90 21500/2.9 = 7414
                      31/11 = 2.82 = 7624
                      30/11 = 2.73 = 7875
                      32/12 = 2.67 = 8052  //extremely hot, wheelies and bunny hops are unpredictable

                      NOTES: The Thunderslot spurs are all 17mm OD and the pinion is 7mm.
                      Whereas NSR spurs are 17.5, require 6.5mm pinions
                      Axles ODs for both brands = 2.37mm, vs. 2.38 for Slot.IT and most other 1/32 brands

                      Useless math tricks:
                      3/32 = 0.09375 X 25.4 = 2.38125mm
                      2.37mm / 25.4 = 0.9333 x 32 = 2.9858in [2.99/32]

                      "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                      Sammy with Montrose

                      in reply to: 2020 Thunderslot Discussion #15118
                      Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
                      Participant

                        Erick – both the Hudy and PN-Racing truers can work on a 5Amp power supply.
                        — I have been using this $80, extremely portable power supply for at least 10 months:
                        e-slotcar.com > power-supplies > gophert-32v-5amp-power-supply-cps-3205ii
                        — This $60 small desk PS is also useful:
                        amazon > Dr.meter 30V/5A Variable Linear DC Bench Power Supply

                        A P/S (with a 5a, 10a or more capability) you previously used for 1/24 cars should also work.
                        *****
                        Without contact and with wheel(s) installed, the free-spin ‘load’ should range from 1.4a to 1.9a. This reference setting should be done with as small a free height as possible (since the tension from the drive belts add their own load). Voltage used is typically 3.0 – 3.5.  Higher voltage needed for free-spin ~may be~ a symptom of bearings needing lube.

                        "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                        Sammy with Montrose

                        in reply to: 2020 Thunderslot Discussion #15109
                        Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
                        Participant

                          The shiny Thinderslot tires appear to be some form of Urethane, so like some of the NSR urethane based tires the sidewalls can crack – even with the ‘rubberized’ CA glues (such as those sold for RC tires). Last year I took a clue from Dave and tried ShoeGoo. If you need to glue your T/S tires you can fill the air-gap channel with a bead of ShoeGoo. Bonus – when removing old tires – it takes some persistence but with a really hard tug the Shoegoo comes off very cleanly.

                          To more fully fill the gap – two 13mm (1/2in inside diameter) faucet O-rings can be used. These are alternatives to the $9 foam-donuts sold by Thunderslot for filling the 14.3mm high gap in the OEM TRMR001AL wheels. The O-Rigs must be trued to match the height of the shoulder ribs – either

                          14.3mm for the OEM wheels (TRMR001AL) -or- 14.9mm for the Replacement wheels (TRMR002AL). I suggest using an Emory Board for the cutting rather than ruining your rims on a truing grinder-wheel.

                          #10 O-Ring 1/2in (13mm) inside diameter O-ring (3/32 thick)
                          #9 O-Ring 7/16in (12mm) inside diameter O-ring (3/32 thick)

                          Permatex Car Window Seal silicone glue works ok for a while, then seems to ‘shed’ from the aluminum.
                          Urethane glue is available – but apparently only in a 10-oz Caulk-gun size for $20.

                          "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                          Sammy with Montrose

                          in reply to: Schedule 2020 #15105
                          Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
                          Participant

                            ThunderSlot Schedule
                            #1 July 11
                            #2 July 22
                            #3 Aug 8
                            #4 Aug 22
                            #5 Sept 12
                            #6 Sept 26
                            Annual Planning Meeting Oct 10

                            "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                            Sammy with Montrose

                            in reply to: It's Alive! The new home track table #15084
                            Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
                            Participant

                              SLOT MODS — look out! Marty this is your calling!

                              "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                              Sammy with Montrose

                              in reply to: ASCC Monthly Meeting – May 11 2020 #15037
                              Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
                              Participant

                                I have three 6-feet long XLR controller extension cords I will drop off at the HQ on Memorial Monday 5/25.
                                These are a little over-kill with the existing 3 foot cords on most of our controllers, but this gives lots of flexibility in location, including being able to keep your controller in hand while self-marshalling during practice or a race with only two marshalls.
                                -or- being at the Race-control (track call button) position in a very very small race (3 people).

                                "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                                Sammy with Montrose

                                in reply to: EQUIPMENT UPDATES – March 2020 #15035
                                Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
                                Participant

                                  TRACK CLEANER Pole plus future cleaner Truck[attachment file=”Cleaner_truck-Small image.jpg”]

                                  "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
                                  Sammy with Montrose

                                Viewing 15 posts - 211 through 225 (of 533 total)