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Athough not officially approved as a series yet, (@11/30/20) many members seem interested in the NSR Formula 86/89 cars as a 2021 series.The cars are available from many popular retailers: Pendle, Electric Dreams, CloverLeaf, LEB Hobbies
CloverLeaf: White & Test $63 Decorated $70 (many liveries) Spares-limited
LEB Hobbies: White & Test $70 Decorated $77 (many liveries) Spares- $1~2 higher than others
Power Hobbies: White & Test $70 Decorated $75 – 85. Spares-limited
Professor Motor: White & Test $70 Decorated $85 – 95. Spares-moderate
Electric Dreams: White $75 Test $80 Decorated $90-100. Spares-extensive, some higher than others; many DECALS available for Test cars.
PendleSlot: US prices are competitive with Electric Dreams. Liveries & Spares-extensive
….
SCC – no current stock @11/30
132slotcar.US – no current stock @11/30"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseThe OHMITE rheostats/potentiometers have a few differences from the stock/OEM pots:
— Benefit: They are harder to move and hence are less likely to be accidentally moved during a race.
— Benefit: The resistor coil is exposed, hence easy to clean and vents heat easier*
— Benefit: Slightly more precise than the smaller OEM wire-wound pots.— Risk: Since the coils, wiper and ceramic base are exposed; damage from a drop can be significant (but overall these are industrial grade and very tough)
— Mounting: The mounting neck is 7/32in and requires a plastic or metal sleeve to fit the 3/8in holes in the PCB. A plastic washer (ID=7/32; OD=1/2~7/16) is needed to secure the shaft to the PCB.— Knobs: The shaft is 1/8in vs. 1/4in and hence requires new knobs. Koford knobs are available.
M463B annodized black with dot $2.50
e-slotcar.com/koford-variabrake-knob-with-set-screw-and-1-8-post-hole-kof-m463b/M463A bare aluminum with drilled spot $1.50
e-slotcar.com/koford-variabrake-knob-for-1-8-shaft-with-set-screw-kof-m463a/*Caveat: Since the pots are not directly in the power-path they don’t actually need to be high-wattage (i.e. do not need a power rating over 5w or Amperage rating over 3A). But the exposed coils of the Ohmites should still be cooler than those in the enclosed CTS pots.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseMarty I cannot find the latest setup info on the Houston track. Just one of the early ones reco. C1s, 26 or 27 crown with a 9z pinion, Ch10 guide and maybe a few more details. Nothing on front axle height, braid depth etc. Please insert the post number or link. Spyder out.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseWe may need to have a outreach activity where we call and/or text each active member to obtain their comments.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseCUTE. Interesting. I actually owned a SIMCA in 1970-71.
These are 1/24s? they look like adolescent Revoslots. Hopefully one day they extend the trans-am models to the 1/32 size; perhaps license their GP-c models also in 1/32 etc.I like the independent front axles.
But I wonder why they have a ‘cambered’ (cupcake) option for the rear- it seems like there too many chances for friction (from the u-joint) and maybe not the best handling on a flat slot-car track(?)"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseThanks for the positive comments! These videos were made by a club founder and leadering racer who has been involved in slot cars since he was a teen (starting in Brazil). Ary Barbosa (Autorama) has experience including racing 1-24 flexi and piano wire cars (e.g. at “Z-Raceway” in Austin before it finally closed in 2004) plus extensive 1/32 RTR experience. He is a consistent podium winner and one of our excellent mentors. Other helpful videos and posts are made by another founder, Marty Muehlegger (Porshce-917) and our concours expert Russell Mill (Chap-65) and miniatures craftsman Marc Tyler (Datto).
Compared to some other slot-car tutorials, factors of the high quality of our videos include: — minimum hemming and hawing, — we get to the point instead of talking aimlessly as we wave the car or part around, — no overly produced or poorly matched music, — Fairly high quality camera work – the camera is stable, focused and contains the subject, — we don’t endlessly repeat instructions or easy to find best practices.
Please visit our Youtube channel for races (Six series with six rounds = 36 per year) and other tutorials. Please search this site is also filled with other hidden Gems of knowledge and opinion, and visit our Facebook page for helpful posts and pictures.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseJust an FYI, our planning meeting was bumped from Nov 14 since too many people were not available. Look for a new TBD date, possibly in early December.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseGUIDE FOR THE HSARC TRACK
HSARC recommended either the OEM snap-in guide, or the screw SICH10 “racing-guide”.The original guide has a 21mm blade Length (6.5mm depth, 1.25 thickness). A CH10 seems to be 18mm in length (no ‘battleship’ leading edge). A CH85 is a screw version of the original guide, with a small 3mm leading edge (for 21mm)
I was wrong in a previous post – the ‘deep-wood/routed’ guide SICH07 has a 24mm blade Length
not 27mm from the previous post. Depth is 8mm vs the OEM blades with 6.5mm depth.OEM/CH85 Depth 6.50 Length 21mm Thick 1.25
CH10 Depth 6.50 Length 18mm Thick 1.25
CH07 Depth 8.00 Length 24mm Thick 2.00
Scaleauto Red Depth 8.00 Length 23mm Thick 1.75
1-24 Depth 8.00 Length 23mm Thick 2.00 //parma, slick-7, koford etc
Carrera Depth 7.75 Length 26mm Thick 1.75
Scalextric Depth 6.75 Length 18mm Thick 1.25"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseTIRES FOR THE HSARC TRACK
C1 compound tires are standard OEM on many Slot.ITs
Using a magnifying glass on the branded (e.g goodyear, firestone, pirelli …) OEM tires you will find many of them are PT1159s, which has a C1 compound, and close to the same size as the PT28(F30)s. PT1159C1 9.5 W x 17.2 D (should be tight even without glue)
as compared to the PT28(F30) 10 W x 19.5 DMost of us have these C1 spare tires rattling around in our pitboxes, unless we trashed them or used them on static models. These can be glued with CA, rubberized black CA, or ShoeGoo.
OTHER C1 TIRES THAT MAY BE IN YOUR SPARES:
PT1228C1 9.5 W x 17.8 D
PT35 (1140) 9.5 W x 19.8 D
PT34 (1145) 10 W x 18.5 D
PT2121C1 (1121 = 10 x 19.5) same size as F30SLOT.IT NUMBERING SCHEMES: Slot.IT part numbers often, but not always, are the 4-digit Drawing aka Mold number. Some part numbers seem to have no meaning (e.g. PT28, PT34) while others include the compound (e.g. PT1228C1, PT1172N22).
The “C” in the compound name is for Carerra; Tires with a “P” in their compound name (P1, P6) the “P” is for plastic (or Perspex) as in Scalextric, Ninco, Carrera tracks. The ones with a “N” are usually 22-shore with a hybrid or full Urethane base, “N” = Ninco since the tires are made to dig into the gritty Ninco track surface. N22 tires are basically equal to NSR Ultragrips; leave lots of grey dust.
Slot.IT does not either (a) have an explicit documented reference of the compound Prefix meanings, it is derived from the recommended surfaces they match the tires to.
(b) consistency in including the Mold-number (e.g. the 11xx or 12xx etc.) or compound number on the tire.
For example, tires with a “P6” compound only have the Slot.IT name on the Sidewall, the only clue they are P6s is they are near the same size as a PT28(F30), they are rubber-based and almost as soft as F30s. There are 3 P6 tires, PT24, PT25, PT1207P6.
(c) Consistency across the years on part numbers."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseSPYDER WEB of 2021 Candidate Series:
Q1 Slot.IT McLaren vs. Group-C //lets try something new for Q1
Q2 Racer Group-5 //it has been awhile
H1 BRM 1/24 Group-C //let’s finish what we started in 2019
H2 Targa Florio Rally //let’s finish what we started in 2019 (2019-series-nsr-porsche-908-3-rally)
Q3 NSR F1 //only new car I plan to spend money on.
Q4 Trans-Am or Gumball Fun Series //lets try something new!?!?Guiding Criteria:
– We talk alot about “controlling costs”; let’s actually do it and re-cycle series.
– Not every series needs to be a quest for a new ET and Lap record. This is supposed to be fun (so I heard) not a mirror of actual pro racing and their spending “drag-races”.
– Let’s complete what we only started in 2019.
– Sure I love Revoslot and Thunderslot also, but 3 years in a row? we need a break for other Options!"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseDTM TUNING CHALLENGES
1. BODY FLOAT – a very light/little looseness of the body screws prevents several handling issues. Float needs to come from the MotorPod. Lap Times instantly decreased by 0.2sec (4.4 > 4.2s)2. GEAR RATIO-Orange(25) seems to be the best compromise for my Opel. Unless you are a “Mush” button user, or have a light “finger”, Green(24) can jack-rabbit in the climbs out of the esses and coming out of the “button” turn (a.k.a. T6, T7) Blue(26) is controllable but Slow.
3. WEIGHT DISTRO ****
With an Orange(25) crown, a single 2.5 Slot.IT tungsten “slug” in the Front Pod slot seems to balance the Opel. A 2nd “slug” in the Rear Pod slot (e.g. NOT recommended) makes the car easier to handle in the corners, but encourages the Fishtail coming out of the Esses (a.k.a. T3), and at the button (T6, 7). Randy reported better handling of his Merc with a few grams behind the Guide; my Opel (with alloy front wheels) does not seem to need that.
** Dave reported that two small lead disks (1/2 to 1gram each) on the outer edge of the pan, appx 3/8in ahead (8-9mm) of the Front Pod slot, improved his handling. Make sure they are 1-2mm away from the edge of the chassis so that the body skirt is not hitting them.4. TIRES
For the ASCC Rounds, F30s (SIPT28) seem to have plenty of grip, but chatter in the corners, even if well-trued and radiused (probably the rear weight trying to drift).
Some people are experimenting with F22 (SIPT1207F22 D19.7-21 x W10mm; NOT SIPT29 D20.8 x W12.4) and N22 tires (SIPT1171N22 D19.7-21 x W10mm)
For the HSARC Rounds, Marty says they recommend the OEM tires, have a C1 compound (the catalog says they are designed for Scalextric and Ninco abrasive tracks) The stock tires may be SIPT1228-C1 (D17.8 x W9.5), or SIPT1159-C1 (D17.2 x W9.5) [in case you need to chase them down in your spares box!]5. GUIDE
As usual, replace the M2 grubs with eyelets for the motor wires.
For the ASCC Rounds, Marty approved our typical SICH07 “deep-wood-guide” which has a 7mm deep blade, with an 27mm Length.
For the HSARC Rounds, Marty says they recommend either the OEM snap in guide, or the screw SICH10 “racing-guide” which has a 21mm Length. (I assume the 27 mm blade of the SICH07 may bind in the sharp 90-deg corners they have?)"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseDTM RULES
DTM-Proxy-Car-Rules_Oct 2020"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseWING RULE QUESTION – To reinforce the Opel’s wing, with extra tiny struts, I glued a piece of styrene ‘between’ the wing struts (license plate size). Legal?
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseTEST-N-TUNE NOTES OCT 18 2020
We are experiencing a problem with fine dust on track, if (a) we leave the doors open, (b) we do Not cover the track between tests and races. Please cover track when you leave : )Dave hit a 3.9; using a 9/23 (pink) gear ratio, F22 tires. Running an Opel.
Randy hit 4.4s with the Merc F30s 9/28? (he had stock gears, not sure if he changed them later)
I hit 4.4s; Running an Opel. F30s. Tried both 9/23(pink) and 9/24(green) ratios (both seemed Too Hot, neither improved the times!)
NOTE to have a calculated rear-wheel RPM of 7800, the ratio is 2.69, hence a 9/24(grn). For 7500 2.78, 9/25(orange)
…
— The cars are extremely noisy, I guess from the body rattling against the pan (with loose body screws for float).
— The best spot for adding any weight, IF needed, is not clear. The Opel’s don’t seem to really need any additional weight. I tried the 2.5g slug in the front pod slot, rear pod slot, and without the slug with little obvious change.
— Randy’s Merc handled better with a few grams behind the guide.
— The black end-bell 21k motor *seems lethargic (in response), even at 12v.
— In the Esses the rear can swing around in the 2nd curve (both Merc and Opel)
— The use of the Spherical bushings in the front uprights is “iffy”. They seem to stick in the channels making adjusting the axle height very tedious. Also, because they are designed for the rear drive axle, (hence designed to be broke in from an active axle) they seem overly tight for a passive front axle. **I obtained smoother action (less friction) and easier axle height adjustment using our typical practice of just using long grub screws, no bushings.**I also obtained smoother action using Aluminum front wheels; which also adds a useful gram or 2 on the guide.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose
