[Autorama]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1…   is this one legal

Yes, DTM cars are also legal.

[Autorama]

Steer clear from the non-RACING FLY cars; those are front motored and are useless for this series. If you are buying a FLY car, it needs to have “RACING” somewhere in the description.

The Fly RACING cars come from factory with inline fk-180 motors (rear drive, pod-mounted), they also include a lightweight vacuum formed interior. The Fly RACING KIT comes unassembled with extra motor mounts, gears and springs. 

New update list of the easiest brands to work with:

1. FLY Racing Kit; FLY Racing (BMW M3 & Alfa 156)
2. Spirit (Peugeot 406 Coupe – Silhouette version is NOT ALLOWED)
3. ProSlot (Alfa 156)
4. Scalextric
5. Autoart
6. Ninco
7. SCX

9999. Fly Slot, non-racing.

[Autorama]

First post has been updated with the rules.

The easiest brands to work with, in my opinion, are:

1. FLY Racing Kit; FLY Racing (BMW M3 & Alfa 156)
2. Spirit (Peugeot 406 Coupe – Silhouette version is NOT ALLOWED)
3. ProSlot (Alfa 156)
4. Scalextric
5. Autoart
6. Ninco
7. SCX

Good luck to all.

[Autorama]

Stephen,

This should help you: https://www.slotcarillustrated.com/portal/forums/showthread.php?t=50659

 

BTW, Proslot (no longer in business) also made an Alfa 156; it is a podded, sidewinder chassis. There’s one on Ebay with 3 days left: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-32-Pro-Slot-3-SELENIA-ALFA-ROMEO-GT-used-/170933400930?pt=Slot_Cars&hash=item27cc6cb562

Here are a few more pictures of the Proslot Alfa: https://photobucket.com/images/Alfa+Romeo+156+White+-+Proslot/

 

I always thought this would be a good car to prep.

Ary.

[Autorama]

hey out of Autoart/Ninco/scalextric/SCX which is the most raceable or able to mod the easiest to be competative

I would forget SCX, they need the most work and generally are very narrow cars; the other brands will all need about the same amount of work. Scaley and Autoart will be sidewinder cars, Ninco will probably be anglewinder; all will need new wheels & gears.

Also I was noticing alot of BMW M3 models  is that covered under the 3 series. It is kinda a gray zone as it is the 3 series entry of the M series

BMW is one of the model that can be used both on Touring and GT; for touring you need to look at the body, it should look like the street version.

I also have problems identifying differences between touring and GT cars; my best advice is to use google images .

---

Clipped from wikipedia:

For the casual observer, there can be a great deal of confusion when it comes to classifying closed-wheel racing cars as ‘touring cars’ or ‘sports cars’ (also known as GT cars).

In general, however, touring cars are based upon family cars (such as hatchbacks, saloons or estates), while GT racing cars are based upon more powerful and expensive sports cars, such as Ferraris or Lamborghinis (and are thus usually coupes). Underneath the bodywork, a touring car is often more closely related to its road-going origins, using many original components and mountings, while some top-flight GT cars are purpose-built tube-frame racing chassis underneath a cosmetic body shell.

[Autorama]

All,

Do your research before purchasing the touring cars!! If you plan on purchasing a Fly touring car, make sure it is the racing version; most of the regular versions have motors mounted on the front – you don’t want those.

 

[Autorama]

Yes, those are the rules. The rules will be slightly modified when it comes to the car setup but you can start looking for cars with the provided list.

[Autorama]

West,

I think the sidewinder motor orientation is the best on NSR cars; inline is also not bad, just not as smooth as the sidewinder. We have had no luck with the anglewinder setup, the long can motors produce too much torque, even after replacing the chassis and motor-pod with their hardest options, the car still hops when being accelerated.

One think that we noticed on our wood track was that the air-ride hubs will increase the chance of a car to hop; replacing those hubs with regulars (solid center rib) would decrease hopping greatly.

Now, I would assume a problem with the tires if your car is tail happy but since you mentioned the air-ride hubs, those could be the problem – I have not had any luck with that type of hub. Also, assuming F22 are the best tires for your track, NSR super grips should be the best alternative – between NSR and MJK.

I hope this helps, keep us posted.

[Autorama]

Hi,

That image was not made by me and I don’t have a way to enlarge it. Here is the original .jpg image I downloaded years ago: (https://s9.postimage.org/bw2387ndb/chassisbalancingpoints.jpg)

Btw, I have no problem reading the instructions after printing the image on a full sheet of paper, in the other hand, reading on the computer screen is a bit harder.

[Autorama]

I have found one picture showing a carbon fiber bumper to protect the front spoiler:

but this bumper is not included on the kit DoSlot sells, maybe we need to contact the fella and ask for it.

Anyway, take a look at this link: https://picasaweb.google.com/109586671652648536965/DoSlotFormelZ#. Do the F1s seem a little to short and too wide?

[Autorama]

Here you go:

 

[Autorama]

Bob,

I threaded the tire truer axle in order to keep the plastic hubs in place; instead of sliding the plastic hubs you twist them into the axle. 

The only problem with this is that you will need to buy the extra axle for the truer, metal hubs will not fit in the threaded axle. 

[Autorama]

Bob, the box looks sharp! British green?

I don’t know where to get a handle from a shelf but I will look around for one.

[Autorama]

Brandon,

Talking about tool boxes, I think you were looking for something like this:

Can you see the cylindrical containers inside? $9 at Walmart, by the beads section.

[Autorama]

This deal is done!! Thank you, Marty.

[Author]

Posts