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All,
At this past Saturday’s club meeting we talked about a possible BRM and ScaleAuto race in Waxahachie on June 7th. The majority, specifically 8 of the 9 club members in attendance, voted to move forward with the event. Now that a large segment of the club have shown interest I wanted to make sure everyone else in the club know about this opportunity. I details about the race are listed below with more to come as we nail down the details. Please post to this forum if you are planning on going, are interested in going or have questions about the event. We are looking forward to taking a good group to the event and having a great time.
Marty
Proposed Race in Waxahachie
Date: Sunday, June 7th
Location: All Scale Raceway – Waxahachie, private track
Distance from Austin: 167.5 miles, 2 hours 40 minutes
Times: TBD
Race Format: 3 minute heats, 2 minutes to swap lanes, with call button
Rules: Existing rules as posted on Slot Car Illustrated with the exception of weight placement and having to use BRM
weights.
Tires: Foam for both BRM and ScaleAuto
Who: 1/24 Scale racers from Tyler, Dallas, Austin, Houston and San Antonio
Track: Blue King 155’, eight lane
Track Connectors – alligator clips
Voltage – between 12v and 13v
Track Direction – track runs counter clockwise, the big bank turn is turn #1
Cars: BRM Group C and ScaleAuto GT
Cost: $12 per race
Prizes: Trophies/Plaques
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All,
For anyone on the fence about getting a ScaleAuto car and wondering if it will work on our track – they will! ScaleAuto released a new soft compound tire that works great on our track. If you are purchasing one of these cars I would recommend getting these tires as well. They will allow you to use the ScaleAuto on our track so you can get a better understanding of how they work, how to set them up and how they drive. Let me know if you have any additional questions.
[attachment file=”IMG_1459.JPG”]
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I’m starting to think this is more trouble than its worth. By the VDS Z4 do you mean #SC-7059? And what’s the Japanese car? The Scale Auto website does not list any R4 chassis on Z4s. The #SC-7059 is listed with a SC-8000 R2 chassis. 132SlotCar.us doesn’t say crap about the chassis, although they do list numbers for chassis parts.
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Russell,
The Scale Auto website is a good source or information as well as Pendle Slot.
https://www.scaleauto-slot.com/catalog-2014
https://www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/The chassis you want is the SC-8000 R4. The R2 is OK but if you are spending the money you might as well get the latest version – the R4. It only comes on a select number of the ScaleAuto cars. Basically the latest releases.
The car I purchased is the Marc VDS Racing Team #SC-7059. I am using this car as a mule. I will be painting a car to match the team BMW Z4 from the 2014 Nurburgring 24 hours.
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First Time out with the Race Prepared BMW Z4
Just like a real test day I am here at Kings at 10:20pm on Saturday night running my “blue printed” ScaleAuto BMW Z4 for the first time. Here is what I have learned.
1. Every bolt, and I mean every bolt needs to be secured with blue Loctite. I didn’t put it on the rear axle supports and they came lose after the first 20 laps.
NOTE: The Philips head screws have an interesting head on them that does not mesh with all Philips head screwdrivers so make sure you have a good fit before you force a bad situation and round out one of these screws.2. When you think you have the screws tight, you don’t. I thought I had the motor mounting clamps and bolts tight but 153 laps later the screws loosened and the motor/pinion backed off of the motor and left the car at a standstill.
3. Be careful in truing the ScaleAuto soft rear tires #SC-4736. These tires worked great when I put them on the car. They weren’t true but I thought that could only make them better. Once again I was wrong. They are like truing very large shore 15 tires. You have to be very careful with them or they will melt/gum up. I was able to true a good pair of them and was looking forward to running them tonight. I was surprised when they did not have the same amount of traction they did before they were true. I was also surprised to see the rate at which they were shedding rubber. They ran like shore 15 tires with large balls of tire rubber building up on them when pushed hard. The tires could run for eight to ten laps before I would have to stop to remove the balled up rubber from the tires.
My best lap time of the evening was 4.529. Time to go home and spend some more time getting the BMW dialed in. Good luck to the rest of you working on your cars.
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Marty,
We need to figure out rules ASAP. Alan is in Europe and I don’t see the national rules being update anytime soon.
As far as tires go, we should get whichever foam tires are being used in Waxahachie; do we know that?Regarding the currently published rules (https://slotcarillustrated.com/portal/forums/showthread.php?p=899357):
Let’s start the wrongs list:
– Stock gearing: (fundamentally wrong – must on our club will understand why as it has been discussed over and over (there aren’t 2 motors alike, nevermind 20).
– Shoe goo only: those of us who raced at the BRM 24hrs know how well that rule worked – epoxy should be allowed.The good list: I did see that we can use lock nuts and use any size t-nuts to adjust body movement.
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under ground Clearance
• The front of the car cannot be held up by the braid when checking this measurement.
WTF does this mean. I have been reading through the rules and this one I don’t understand.
also how else would they be attached
• Soldering is only means by which to attach lead wires to the motor terminals.
are we running at 12v?
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Steve,
The braid from the guide is not permitted to push the front of the car up to give it the 1mm required ground clearance. The surface plate used to measure the 1mm has a large hole in it where the guide would go so it does not affect the measurement of the ground clearance at the front of the car.
https://www.radiokontrol.it/attrezzatura-scaleauto-SC-5003/product/4026250We are running at 12 volts.
Great questions.
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BRM and Scaleauto tuning day is set for April 25th at 1pm. If you are planning on attending the BRM-Scaleauto races in Waxahachie please plan on attending this tuning session so we can share notes and help each other get our cars ready for the race. I will have spare parts for both BRM and Scaleauto cars. If you are running a BRM I would suggest you order an anglewinder chassis conversion kit. You will need to make sure the chassis is absolutely flat and be prepared to bake it if it is not.
I look forward to seeing everyone on the 25th.
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Will we have another tuning and practice day in the coming weeks? I think Sundays would probably be best, or after our regular Sat races.
What is the plan for building/tuning cars for the people going who dont have their cars (or cannot afford one).
What is our strategy regarding the BRM -vs- Scaleautos.
— Who is racing BRM only, …Scaleauto only …..Who is racing both (verify data on our forum)
— Who has a car; who needs to borrow a car?
— Who needs tires, gears, etc. Can they buy from Marty or should buy from Alan/132slots.
— Schedule a BRM practice; … a SA practice (on the same day I assume, but can we designate specific times or order?)
— Weight and body float tuning — need some guidance
— Sponge Tire truing — need some guidance
— BRM front tires – should we true them to get them to minimum diameter, or just let the track do the work?
— Local tech inspection. Confirm that everyone meets the specs before the trip? -
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Will we have another tuning and practice day in the coming weeks? I think Sundays would probably be best, or after our regular Sat races.
[b]Topic for Saturday’s club meeting[/b]
I just got my ScaleAuto white kit, and sponges for both cars. I’d like to put on sponges and practice, but dont want to mess up the tracks traction. (or I can live with rubber and just practice with sponges on Sunday morning at AllScale).
[b]Don’t wait to get to All Scale Raceway to practice. The sooner you begin the sooner you will get an understanding on how the cars handle. You will also need to drive on the track to tune your car as best as possible for the race. [/b]I also think we need to get some cars together for the people going who dont have their cars (or cannot afford one).
I think we also need to have a strategy regarding the BRM -vs- Scaleautos.
[b]What do you mean “strategy”?[/b]
— Who is racing BRM only, …Scaleauto only …..Who is racing both (verify data on our forum)
[b]Topic for Saturday’s club meeting[/b]
— Who has a car; who needs to borrow a car?
[b]Topic for Saturday’s club meeting[/b]
— Who needs tires, gears, etc. Can they buy from Marty or should buy from Alan/132slots.
[b]I have everything anyone would need to get their car set up. People can use my parts for a tuning session and for the race when we are in Waxahachie.[/b]
— Schedule a BRM practice; … a SA practice (on the same day I assume, but can we designate specific times or order?)
[b]This is more up to what everyone’s schedule will allow. We can discuss this and many of your other points at Saturday’s club meeting[/b]
— Weight and body float tuning — need some guidance
[b]Other than saying you want to have body float using weight and where to put it is up to the individual based on their car and their driving style.[/b]
— Sponge Tire truing — need some guidance
[b]No different than rubber except it takes much less time and effort. Be sure not to true them so much that they do not meet the rules.[/b]
— BRM front tires – should we true them to get them to minimum diameter, or just let the track do the work?
[b]True them but don’t true them down to the minimum because they will wear during the race.[/b]
— Local tech inspection. Does everyone meet the specs before the trip?
[b]The rules are posted. Anyone building a car that is not meet the specs should have their head examined. If anyone has any questions they can ask either Ary or me to check their car and make sure its legal.[/b] -
SCALEAUTO GEAR LASH ADJUSTMENT
Is the recommended method to adjust the lash by moving the motor in/out with the motor mount screws?
[b]Yes. Use both motor mounts as needed to move the motor back and forth to get the mesh just right. You want to check the mesh all the way around the spur gear to make sure its set correctly. You also can check the spur gear to see how true it is by moving the pinion away from the spur, hold the chassis completely still and line up a piece of paper or something next to the spur gear and then slowly spin the spur around and check the run out of the spur gear. You can also use this method to check if its warped. Not all spur gears are created equally.[/b]Also, other than replacing any spurs that are not oval or tacoed, are there any other best practices?
[b]Just make sure the mesh is good all around the spur and not just in a couple of spots.[/b] -
GUIDE DEPTH GUAGE
…aka….surface plate used to measure the 1mm ….Marty do you have one of these? How safe will it be just to eye-ball the guide and use a micrometer/caliper?
[b]I don’t have one of the super nice Scaleauto 1mm surface plates but I do have their little measuring tool that we can use to check the clearance. 1mm is very small. I doubt it will be an issue.[/b][attachment file=”SC-5043-01.jpg”]
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I am looking into a hotel for Sat. night. What is the physical address for the track? Is anyone else spending Sat. night? Mark and I are thinking of sharing a room for the night. I will be in Temple all day Sat. and will head to Waxihatchi later that evening after my conferance is over.
Rich Racing Team -
I have attached the final list of Austin Slot Car Club racers that will be heading to Waxahachie for the BRM and ScaleAuto races on June 7th. Please review the list and let me know if you have any changes or revisions I need to be aware of.
Here are the directions to the track from the owner of the track Lonny –
From dallas go south on 35 to the foreston rd. exit take a right turn at the stop sign follow the road around it will make a real sharp left turn and I will be the secound place on the left the raceway is in the big building on the hill look for a big american flag (972)483-1128 – [i]Lonny[/i] -
Below is a note from The Tyler Club. Lets hope for some dry weather.
[i]Hi Marty,
I think we will have at least seven for both classes from Tyler and Dallas. We may have a few more for one class. The guy in Houston will be racing elsewhere that day.
We are looking forward to it.
I wanted to let you know of one potential problem. Lonny’s track is in a metal building that unfortunately does leak when it rains. We would not be able to race if it did rain. I would check with Lonny at 972-921-2527 if it is forecast to rain on raceday.
Thanks.
Chris[/i]
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HOW TO MOUNT BRM SPONGE TIRES?
1. What is the recommended adhesive to mount the BRM sponges to the wheels?
— Clear nail polich or top-coat?
— Rubber or contact cement? (seems like it would be too lumpy…)
— 3M spray adhesive?2. Application:
— Smear a thin layer on all of the wheel tre mounting surface?
— Apply 4 or 5 dots or lines at equadistant points on the wheel?
— Dots on the inside rim only?3. Tools
— A Q-tip? k-boob skewer? long zip-tie? toothpik?
— stiff paint brush like used with rubber cement?
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BLACK FOAM TAPE
The rules for both the ScaleAuto and BRM cars keep mentioning ‘black foam tape’ to buttress wing uprights.1. Is this any significantly better than just putting a 1/16in layer of ShoeGoo from the decklid up to the wing, along the uprights?
2. Is this neoprene type weatherstrip tape we can get at Home Depot/Lowes?
3. Marty/Ary/Sean do you have any of this tape? -
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You have to sand the rear inserts – they are made to fit the stock wheels for the rubber tires – the sponge wheels are apparently just slightly smaller in diameter. The hub on the back of the insert is ok – its the edge that needs sanding. Also – you may need to sand the brake calipers a little because they press against the inside of the wheel and make the brake disk cocked, and hence prevent the insert from seating itself fully.
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Steve I had to use one short axle spacer, then used a white nylon spacer 1/16 to get the wheel inside the drive side wheel well.
I guess since the spur has a robust collar on it you are not going to see any slop without the spacer. Rules-wise I dont think they prohibit removing the spacers on the spur side.
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