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Thunder Slot screw menagerie
Body and pod to chassis TORX T6
Wheels, crown gear, and guide braid 4/40 coarse threads grub like NSR grub hex.
Front axle adjustment and optional body height adjustment M2.5 x 3mm fine threads grub NSR size hex
THUNDERSLOT Parts Analysis
— All chassis and body screws have a Torx-T6 head.
— Wheel grubs are 4-40 with a head for a 0.05-inch (1.3mm) hex driver (same as NSRs and common on 1/24 cars). Axle adjustment screws are also 4-40 – but Randy’s research says they are not the same as the wheel/crown screws! (different thread spacing?)
— OEM Tires are quite soft, seem like a 30-shore or maybe 25. The tread is easily trued off. Rated size is D:21mm x W:10mm //Diam (20.40mm), Width (9.90mm)
— Rear wheels look good but are plastic.
— The front-end is very light and wheelies are possible if your braids are not groomed tight to the guide shoe. OEM Braids are reasonable but may benefit from replacement by softer Slot.It copper braid.
— OEM guide looks reasonable, may be beneficial to replace with Slot.It deep-wood guide.
— Adding 3gm in the triangle of the pod, or 1~2 tungsten ‘magnet’ slugs in the chassis may prevent “Porposing” in the green-lane at the button-mans hairpin.
— Interior is Lexan with hard-plastic driver and hard-plastic windows.
— OEM Sidewinder motor is can-drive, rated equal to the Slot.It Orange (21.5k-RPM, 175qm-cm-TRQ) but seems to have more torque than rated.
— Triangle pod is similar to the NSR delta pod, including plastic ‘nuts’ for the pod screws.
*OEM = original equipment from manufacturer"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseDIBS: Mark/Spyder; #52 White/Dana-LugunaSeca 1967 Peter Revson (Number changed to #21)
PR ETs on Jan 13 2018 – @ 11volts: 3.953, 3.964, 3.973, 3.990, 4.072
(PR=personal result as in running; ET=elapsed time)"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseAVAILABLE MODELS
#2-Red-coupe Surtees/Hobbs-BOAC500 Brands Hatch 1967 (CA00101S/W)
#2-Yellow-coupe Bonnier/Axelsson-BOAC500 Brands Hatch 1968 (CA00102S/W)
#8-Blue-coupe Leslie/Motschenbacher-Daytona 24Hrs 1969 (CA00103S/W)
#30-Blue-spyder Gurney CANAM Bridgehampton 1966 (CA00201S/W)
#52-White-spyder Revson CANAM Laguna Seca 1967 (CA00202S/W)
White-kit Coupe (CA001KS/W)
White-kit Spyder/CanAm (CA002KS/W)"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseI don’t believe the Slot.it wood guide to be necessary on these cars. I’m with Russell on keeping these as stock as possible.
More thoughts on the Thunderslot series:
The “white kit” comes with enough parts to build several versions of the Lola T70 Spyder:
There are two windshields, two dashboards, two driver heads, four roll bars and three engine options. There is a Chevy engine with vertical intakes, a cross-ram block as run by Donahue/Penske, and a Ford Indy dual overhead cam engine with bundle-of-snakes exhaust over the rear deck. Note that the engine supplied with the Gurney #30 car is incorrect as it has Chevrolet valve covers rather than the Gurney-Weslake heads on a small block Ford engine. Right now I am thinking that I am going to race a Spyder, set up as the #21 car with the Ford dual overhead cam engine as raced by Parnelli Jones and Mario Andretti. Presumably, this car, as well as others, will as some point be available from Thunderslot.
In comparing the coupes and spyders, my red coupe weighs 63.1 grams and the #30 Gurney spyder weighs 58.5 grams. The front/rear weight distribution between the two cars is within one percentage point. It remains to be seen how the two cars compare on the track. The spyder is a good bit lighter but the coupe may have a slightly higher center of gravity which may help weight transfer to the outside wheel for more cornering grip.
Preliminary Thunderslot Series Rules
Guys, I apologize because I have been so busy that I have not had time to post rules for the Thunderslot series. Mark has taken the time to produce a set of rules and I have discussed them with him. I will post these preliminary rules shortly, with the goal of having final rules by Feb. 1. That will give everyone a couple of months to get their cars ready for the series.
My thoughts are to keep the cars as stock as possible, with two goals in mind: a level playing field and to keep the costs down. Any changes from stock that make the cars faster, as, say, independent front axles, will mean everyone will need to make the changes to be competitive. Rule changes from stock would primarily be due to a problem with stock parts–erratic behavior, failures, etc.–and not just to make the cars faster. To that end I propose stock chassis, stock anglewinder motor pod, stock guide, stock front wheels, stock motor, gears, axles, etc. The low grip front tires may be OK and either the trued original treaded rear tires or the optional slicks would be allowed. Probably, the optional larger diameter rear wheels may be allowed, due to concern that worn tires on the original wheels may mean that the chassis bottoms out on the track. Personally, I will try the original wheels to see if the tires will last.
I do not see a need for tire diameter specs in this series. With the adjustable front axle height, it is not necessary on the front, and the rears are self-limiting, due to low clearance below the chassis. Track would be limited by not exceeding the width of the body.
Added weight, above the chassis would be allowed. I think installing grub screws in the provided chassis holes on the edge, to control float to the body, would be OK.
Dibs should be called on car liveries. For duplicate liveries, car numbers must be changed. As I was the first to buy one of these cars, I would like to call dibs on the red Lola coupe #2. However, if I decide to run a roadster, this car livery would be available. If more cars become available, they would also be allowed, pending any production changes, different from the original cars. If anyone notices any changes between any of the existing or upcoming cars, such as width, motor, wheels, weight, etc., please bring it to my attention as soon as possible.
I am also considering running the series at 12 volts. I did some brief running with my cars on Saturday, while running the Revo Slot car, and the cars were controllable and very quick. I would like to hear what everyone thinks about this.
If anyone has input as to the rules, please post to this forum. Reasonable rules changes would be considered.
Thanks
Russell
I do not like the idea of truing the front tires on stock plastic wheels and force fit axles. My roadster seems to bounce on the un-trued fronts. Marty tells me a very light touch on the truer will preserve the stock tire and wheel, but will it preserve the force fit on the axle?
I have had the #30 Gurney roadster for almost 4 months. I would change the number to 48 if I must to satisfy the “dibs” idea, but only reluctantly. It may be too late to really call dibs. (Letting Slot.it McLarens in the series would make more cars available;)
11 volts seems plenty on this light car.
I have changed the number on my blue and silver Revo Slot to 68 with red numbers. Now it also has blue wheels in front and silver in rear to match the body colors.
I would like to call Daytona 24 hours 1969 (#8) as my car for the Thunderslot series.
I trued the front tires of the ThunderSlot carefully and discovered three things. The front axle is NOT knurled, so the plastic wheels side off without damage. The plastic wheels have inserts so I could put the tire truer axle through the wheels. I trued very carefully, test driving twice, still hopping after first true. Then discovered that the fronts were true but soft, very unlike our usual hard zero grips. I did not run laps after the last true, but expect real good times. This is also the car that lost a front axle height adjustment grub and I am still waiting for those parts.
I also will be running the Red coupe #2 ill have to change the number.
Jordan will be running Dana # 52
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