Slot.it Ferrari F40 Setup

[Autorama]

Let me first say that this setup was a “lucky shot”.

I really liked the Slot.it F40 with the factory setup: offset inline motor pod. After replacing the stock rear tires with P6s and the guide for the wooden track version, I was getting high 3.9 second laps, but the car was unpredictable – good straight speed but didn’t handle the turns well. Trying to fix that problem, I increased the factory gear ratio of 2.88 (9/26) to 3.0 (9/27); it didn’t really help, it was handling the turns a little better but now I could not get bellow 4.0 second laps.

I really wasn’t planning on using the F40 as my GT entry; I already had a McLaren F1 that was turning low 3.9 laps and it was consistent. 

With a Mclaren already set as my GT car, I figured I could play around setting up another. After looking at what I had available I spotted a Slot.it Audi R8C Raw; this car is by far the worst performing Slot.it car I ever purchased, it just simply does not work (maybe the track style, me , whatever — it is BAD!!). Contrary to what you would expect on a low performance car, the Audi Raw comes from factory with “nice” parts: Evo6 chassis with a Flat6-R motor on an anglewinder setup; and I decided to give that setup a shot on the F40.

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Here is the setup:

• Slot.it Ferrari F40
  • Stock chassis: chassis was baked.
  • Stock front/rear axles, wheels and inserts.
  • Low profile zero grip front tires (PT15): 17X10. I removed the little plastic caps to raise the front axle and used grub screws instead. As I normally do, the front tire sits 0.5~1.0mm above the surface when set on a setup block. There is no way to keep the axle from moving up — it did have a bit of play upwards. 
  • BRM Shore 25 GT tires (S-104): Those are 20X11. True the tires and use lighter fluid to smooth’em out.
  • Offset anglewinder motor pod (CH60): this pod is for an Evo 6 chassis and has two additional screw posts on each side of the motor. The posts had to be clipped off as they were interfering with body float.
  • Flat6-R motor (MN11H): nothing was done to the motor, just install it.
  • 6.75mm 11 tooth pinion (PI6711o).
  • Light ergal 29 tooth anglewinder gear (GA169e).

• Pod and Body screw settings
  • Body screws were 3/4 turn loose.
  • Front pod screws were 3/4 turn loose.
  • Rear pod screws were 1 turn loose.

• Track:
  • Front track was 60.30mm.
  • Rear track was 62.25mm.

• Weight and magnetic down force
  • Weight was 83 grams.
  • Magnetic down force was 19 grams.

• Body:
  • The body was flexing inwards and interfering with float. To fix this issue I glued a piece of Plastruct tubing inside the body.

 

Here are some pictures:

 

The car was stuck to the track and produced a 3.832 seconds lap. Like I said before, this was a lucky shot and I will retired the car of competitions. 

This setup may work with some other Slot.it models, all you need to do is try it.

[tele52]

Ary,

I wish you would reconsider your decision to retire your F40 from competition. You have moved the bar up another notch and it gives us all something to shoot at. I have already made changes to my Mosler hoping to improve performance and improve driveability. After all, isn’t this what racing is all about? 

Jim

[Bellator]

I’m with Jim.  Keep it running.  Gives the rest of us a target to shoot for.  

[Autorama]

I have made my mind to use a different car each race.

Lap times have already been set with the F40 and we/I can use them as a benchmark. I figure I should take the opportunity to play around with different brands, setups, etc; I really do enjoy the mix and match aspect of this series. The F40 was pretty much entirely made of Slot.it parts, I need to do something different now. And hey, I do have another Ferrari ready to race 

[Author]

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