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my heart wants to say yes but it is too far out of spec if it was like 17.1 I would prob let it slide but as to stick to the rule I will have to say no
"If everything seems under control you're just not going fast enough" - Mario Andretti
KEIN – what if the wheel physically measures 15mm at the rim, and 17.1mm at the rib? (regardless of its spec on paper?) I just checked them last night.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseAlright, what times are people running in setting up their cars? I have a 25K motor with 9×23 gearing and a 112gr car that needs my 1/24 controller with all of its brakes and the best I can run is 4.18 on the edge and 4.22 without pushing at qualifying pace. Anyone else had time to run their cars?
Marty
I doubt my results are of much interest (ha!) but I’ve been happy to see a 4.4x at the absolute limit and I suspect there are a couple tenths still in there by doing a few more tweaks to help with acceleration and top speed. 4.5 consistent laps aren’t too tough. So…I am buoyed by your times since I don’t think they’re completely out of the ballpark for me…by the end of the season!
--Stabn'Steer
My car is a rabid dog. I tried the old F30 ‘s that barely pass inspection and ran a best of 4.5xx, then tried new trued NSR. and new trued F30’s. Never better than 4,5 and most 4.6-7. I was running without marshals and got a mile of chasing the wrecked car. I will not be at practice Thursday until late if at all. However, I got a new golf course schedule that does not include Saturday so I can get to meetings and practice. I added some weight but did not get to run many laps. More stable but needs the 25k motor I guess.
Marty – as far as I am aware, you and David have some of the fastest practice times so far.
I won’t say you guys set the bar for us – since that got me in trouble last time 😉Obviously these are temperamental beasts, esp. in the weight/balance tuning. Gear selection also seems to be crapshoot – with 9/23-25 (@25k mtr) seeming to be the range where torque and RPMs have to be balanced. They aint thunderslots or revos : (
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseAll,
I have adjusted the body float gap thickness.
Now,
Should we adjust the tire diameter to 1mm smaller than the current requirements? From 20 rear and 19 front, to 19 rear and 18 front?
I appreciate the adjustment to the credit card rule but I don’t know about the 1mm smaller diameter tires. The glue in guide adapter on both of my cars have been put in at a depth to account for the larger diameter. I don’t know if they would work with the smaller diameter of the front wheels. I will check on it.
I can tell you that increased float makes a huge difference in the performance of these cars. I am running my body screws all the way out and allowing the body to have tons of float.
I agree about the guide being already set for the current tire diameter. Either I’d have to find a way to break the current guide free (which…I suppose…may not be that horrible with these 3d printed critters and a bit of dremel action), or buy another chassis to use smaller diameter wheels. Thus, I’d not be a fan of this option…especially if it turns out to be an advantage.
What’s the driving idea behind offering a smaller diameter wheel? If it is just to make things faster…since we’re all already working under the same limitations, I don’t see a need for it.
--Stabn'Steer
ARY/STEVE
Are you offering to *allow smaller diameter tires (esp. the rears) to (a) accommodate clearance in the rear wheel wells – esp. if we have very loose body screws (and hence can have interior rubbing in a corner) (b) allow for tire wear."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseQuestion…rule says:
“Traction compounds are prohibited.”
Does that include putting nail polish on front tires (anti-traction compound!)? I’ve had to cut down my zero grips to get them somewhere between minimum legal and hilariously too tall, and that makes them a bit grippier than before.
--Stabn'Steer
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