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FROM ARY’S INITIAL PROPOSAL RULES NOT PUBLISHED YET – FINAL QUARTER RACING CLASS
“Factory stock” Carrera GT Class: WEC /IMSA – year range TBD but definitely no cars prior to 2013. I will be sharing more details during the club meeting.</p>
Analog models without magnet + stock everything (wheels, motor, gears, etc).– CG Slotcars Carrera guide adapter + Slot.it wood guide.– NSR 5230 Supergrip (20.5 x11) rear tires + Stock front tires.– Polarity switch can be removed and wiring replaced.– Chassis sanding is allowed for float but gap should not be larger than the thickness of a credit card.
— Aston Martin Vantage V12
— Audi R8 LMS<— BMW M6 GTLM<br — Chevrolet Corvette CR7 — Ferrari 458<— Ferrari 488>— Ford GT RC— Lamborguini HuracanAre you crazy? Stock gearing, plastic wheels??>Ok, as far as the plastic wheels go — yeah, we need to give it a try. I have checked the wheels of 10 or so Carrera cars I have purchased in the past 4 to 5 years and found all to be round and centered.>Now, instead of changing the car gearing, each racer will be able to change the voltage of their lanes. We would still be limited to the power supply range (6 to 16 volts) but that is plenty to allow all cars, regardless of weight, to reach their maximum potential.</p>
>Car list may be changed.</p> -
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Notes on the CG Guide Adapters: The ‘Standard’ size fits the BMW and Ford-GT. The large size can fit if sanded down. I recommend sanding down the adapter, not enlarging the chassis hole, (b/c a replacement adapter is easier to get than a new chassis). Reference Ary’s video.
Warning: It does Not take very much sanding to make the large adapter fit. Be sure it slides in easy, without warping from forcing it. Also: These are 3D printed items and the track facing part of the adapter has a rough finish that needs careful sanding to smooth it.Removing Rear Magnet: The magnet behind the motor is held in with a U-shaped clip. Try and pry it out with a small flat-blade screwdriver. If it sticks, you can very very very carefully pop out it out from the bottom of the chassis by placing the screwdriver on one side of the exposed part of the magnet and popping it with your palm. Carefully!
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Ary – in the BMW M6 GTLM, the chassis wells for the front body screws bulge into the wheel well, these may interfere with Slot.It wheels – when trying to fit them into the wheel-well so the tire is not visible outside the fenders/wells.
Can we flatten the round part of the screw-well that protrudes into the wheel-well? It’s basically a minor filing operation with a emory board (no major loss of chassis material and hence weight). -
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Hey all – planning on joining the group for this series – looking over the cars that are allowed, I’m planning on picking up this version of the Ford GT (Carrera 1/32 Evolution Ford GT Race Car #67) and then being brutally trounced my first few races. 🙂 If there’s any reason this won’t meet the requirements, I’d appreciate a note. Hope to make it out to the Rally event to meet some of y’all.
—Erik (Stabn’Steer)
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Question from the newbie.
the rules say regarding rear wheels/tires
– Rear Wheels: Stock Carrera or Slot.it’s (or similar) ‘17.3 x 9.75 mm’ short hub alternatives.I am having a devil of a time finding 17.3×9.75 in stock anywhere. I have found a 17×9.75 (and easily found 17×10). Does the “OR SIMILAR” item in the rules allow for slight differences as long as the wheel has a 15mm hub and the tire measures 20mm diameter in tech?
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The common wheel to use is the Slot It 17×10 in either aluminum or magnesium. You can use a Slot It F30 tire in 20×10 or a BRM shore 25 in the 20×11 size. Either of these tires will work. The Slot It tires are far more consistent and provide good grip. The BRM tires are a little wider but do not always perform well. I will have all of these items at the track this Saturday if you are planning on being there. I can also show you some other tips for better performance.
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So upon reading the rules and then reviewing the current setups of the members at the club who had cars there. John has CB wheels Randy has Scaleauto wheels and Mark has CB design wheels. All of them are “similar”. I have decided to change the rule to be simply 17×10 mm max. I hope this does not ruffle any feathers.
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Reason prevails!
Are Ninco N80754 PRORACE EVO 3 Wheels 17.4 x 10.2mm hubless with realistic spokes allowed? -
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Alright, what times are people running in setting up their cars? I have a 25K motor with 9×23 gearing and a 112gr car that needs my 1/24 controller with all of its brakes and the best I can run is 4.18 on the edge and 4.22 without pushing at qualifying pace. Anyone else had time to run their cars?
Marty
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I doubt my results are of much interest (ha!) but I’ve been happy to see a 4.4x at the absolute limit and I suspect there are a couple tenths still in there by doing a few more tweaks to help with acceleration and top speed. 4.5 consistent laps aren’t too tough. So…I am buoyed by your times since I don’t think they’re completely out of the ballpark for me…by the end of the season!
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My car is a rabid dog. I tried the old F30 ‘s that barely pass inspection and ran a best of 4.5xx, then tried new trued NSR. and new trued F30’s. Never better than 4,5 and most 4.6-7. I was running without marshals and got a mile of chasing the wrecked car. I will not be at practice Thursday until late if at all. However, I got a new golf course schedule that does not include Saturday so I can get to meetings and practice. I added some weight but did not get to run many laps. More stable but needs the 25k motor I guess.
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Marty – as far as I am aware, you and David have some of the fastest practice times so far.
I won’t say you guys set the bar for us – since that got me in trouble last time 😉Obviously these are temperamental beasts, esp. in the weight/balance tuning. Gear selection also seems to be crapshoot – with 9/23-25 (@25k mtr) seeming to be the range where torque and RPMs have to be balanced. They aint thunderslots or revos : (
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I appreciate the adjustment to the credit card rule but I don’t know about the 1mm smaller diameter tires. The glue in guide adapter on both of my cars have been put in at a depth to account for the larger diameter. I don’t know if they would work with the smaller diameter of the front wheels. I will check on it.
I can tell you that increased float makes a huge difference in the performance of these cars. I am running my body screws all the way out and allowing the body to have tons of float.
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I agree about the guide being already set for the current tire diameter. Either I’d have to find a way to break the current guide free (which…I suppose…may not be that horrible with these 3d printed critters and a bit of dremel action), or buy another chassis to use smaller diameter wheels. Thus, I’d not be a fan of this option…especially if it turns out to be an advantage.
What’s the driving idea behind offering a smaller diameter wheel? If it is just to make things faster…since we’re all already working under the same limitations, I don’t see a need for it.
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