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There was a lot of discussion at the club meeting on Nov 19 regarding the difference in the Group 2 BMW’s available from BRM. The three pictures below should make it clear. The differences are largely in fender flares vs bulged fenders and the front air dams. Also, the LM version appears with an extra set of headlights mounted in one photo. I don’t remember seeing those on Randy’s, but maybe they are in the box.
It is worth noting that if you are looking at the white kits on BRM’s web site, the photos are wrong. The DRM and LM types are reversed.
I will be entering an Art Car version of one of these. Most likely the Type A.
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Thanks to the understanding of you guys, I will be entering the # 81 Zender Scirocco
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I will probably run one of these Alfas. I just ordered them.
My bad. I was doing an eBay search for BRM Alfa in 1:32 scale and there was a seller with a twin pack of Alfas, a red one and a yellow one. I thought that would give me a couple of options and I went ahead and ordered it before checking the item more closely. It was a twin pack of Revoslot Alfas. So……I guess I will run one of them on the rally track.
Russell
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UN BOX BOX BOX! (with a German accent)
I finally tried the BMW 91 Kleber Le Mans on my power strip and it was noisy. After a few hours I stopped it and later opened it up. On the track it was a 5.5 second mess. The front axle assemblies were fully tight, so I loosened them and lubed the bearing surfaces. They are cambered axle holders. Down to 4.5 seconds and with some practice 4.3. I am tempted to slap a BMW sticker on the chassis and run in the prototype class of Le Mans. The sedan is slowing it down, specifically where the front tires rub the fenders.
The Lexan rattles so I dabbed some Shoo Goo on the edges and that helped.
For some reason other than lead trigger finger it de-slots randomly in the button turn blue lane. Maybe I am driving randomly trying to find the braking point and intensity. Or is it torquing itself out of the turn? The spring loaded guide might be “wrong”. No weight added. No front auxiliary driving lights added. HMMMMMM.
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Randy – Happy to hear you were able to get your times down. I will say these cars like to be as low to the track as possible. I would remove the spring from the guide and see how low you can get the front of the car so the entire guide, with new thin braid, can get in the slot. As Chubby Checkers says “How low can you go?”
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All,
Due to the lack of durability in the stock BRM rear tires, the rules have been updated with a change to a required spec tire – Paul Gage, urethane, shore 20, part #XPG-21125LMDF. These tires are available from Slot Car Corner.
These tires will need to be glued to the rims, trued, and have their edges rounded to work well. These tires will not have the same level of grip as the stock tires but they will last significantly longer and be much easier to true.
The rules have been updated to reflect this change.
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I ordered the Kadett white kit from 132slotcar with plenty of time for it to ship early last week, but it still hasn’t shipped and I have received no responses to my inquiries. I’d heard this was an issue with them sometimes, but I had already done a couple orders with them and they were shipped immediately with no issues. Anyway, fingers crossed that a miracle happens! I am probably going to do another hydro-dip on this one. Stock pic for reference.
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A tire truing question for these “bigguns”: is it a general rule of thumb to have the front of the car such that tires should only touch when cornering or do we want those front tires making contact with the track at all times with these bigger cars? Without the adjustable axle height, I decided to true my front tires a little more today and have that front riding like a Group C car. But now I am feeling like maybe I should have followed Russel’s lead with the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!” philosophy. He said he didn’t anything to his car since last race and still smoked all of us with a 6 lap lead between him and 2nd.
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Mel,
I generally like to have the front tires just touch the track to help reduce some of the drag on the guide just a little bit. It’s a fine balance. If you have the tires riding up and all the pressure on the guide you might be slightly slower because of the friction/drag.
I agree with Russell’s statement – If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Many a slot car racer has fallen victim to messing with their car too much and watching the performance go backwards.
Best of luck with it!
Marty
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