B-GROUP RALLY CAR SETUP
I lucked out and placed 3rd in the first race, and no doubt next month when a few other members enter my overall standing will slip. However, here is the setup I used – JIC any of you can use it as a reference.
CHASSIS: SlottingPlus3D-I trimmed the chassis to fit *inside (not under) the body for freer float. The plastic they used is easily stripped by the front-axle grub screws (so once my front axle was adjusted I used locktite (nail polish also works) on the exposed threads of the top half of the upper grubs to prevent slipping. The heads of my lower grubs are Not exposed so I did not Locktite them (that would have blocked the head-hole for the wrench)).
BODY-SCREWS: 6mm Slot.It steel phillips-head with smooth shanks.
BALLAST: One 7gm lead-slug behind the guide boss with 7g lead-slugs stuck to each side of the motor. Total weight appx 95g.
BODY: I had a rally lexan interior (bought last year from ProfessorMotor) complete with navigator – so I replaced the already light and flat interior of my AvantSlot Imprezza.
Lexan windows are legal, so I replaced the windsheild and rear-window with sheet plastic from a HO car’s box (similar to what is used on some Pioneer and Scaley boxes). Page-protector sheet plastic is also thin, so if you want some, there are some sheet protectors in our Magazine bins below the rally track across from the power supplies and other common pit equipment.
I liked the driver names and flag in the side-rear-windows, so I carefully used a hot-razor-knife to cut out the side-rear-windows (which are reqd to be retained). I sanded the rough edges left by the hot knife off the side-rear-windows and tacked them in with tiny dabs of ShoeGoo.
GUIDE: ScaleAuto Red deep-racing guide, with long-shaft (so I could trim it to fit the ‘tall’ boss/tongue on the 3D chassis. Rounded the tip of the ‘battleship’ flag-nose -so it stopped clicking in the trough of the 2nd dip in the main straightaway. Trimmed from the back so it was 17.5mm long from the nose. Most of flag is leading the guidepost/flagpole. I added two thin metal-spacers help it move smoothly across the bottom of the 3D-chassis.
FRONT WHEELS/TIRES: Slot.It 15.8×10 aluminum short-hubs. A slight hub or spacer is needed to prevent tire rub on the 3D chassis. Tires: Slot.It Zero-Grip condoms (17dx10w) Flying 0.5mm off a flat block.
REAR WHEELS/TIRES: SlotingPlus 15.8×10 aluminum no-hubs (with 0.50/440 grubs). Tires: Slot.It F30s. (I first tried N22s but they were “too grippy” and did not drift enough).
MOTOR: A spare Ninco in-line 26,000rpm @14.8V ‘NC10-Exceeder’. At 12v this motor is 21,000; I ran at 10volts so effective rpm was 17,493.
GEARS: 28z(yellow)/9z = 3.11 therefore Calc’ed rear-wheel RPM at 10v is 5,625. Ball-bearings are used for the rear axles.
DRIVING TECHNIQUE: A smooth squeeze, with no abrupt braking or fast-feathers. A short pulse on the straight – slight throttle on the humps, agressive in the hill-climb, steady moderate squeeze in all the switch-backs.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose