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So – Erik – WHEN are you bringing your track to the club?? Check the calendar for ‘open/dark’ weekends or bring it by some Saturday for post-series “desert” race.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseRussel I have noticed wear on the tips of the teeth on my pinion, so I am going to research if any brass pinions are available at the same size (& pitch) as the OEM pinion.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseNo problem Russ! Nothing under the shelf.
BTW- with the LED strips Alex has there is plenty of room (if stapled or otherwise tightly afixed to the bottom of the shelf). But those LEDs are so freaking bright they may blind someone!
— I may actually be able to retrofit the ‘old’ right-side shop light with the LEDs, as an experiment."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseGood News: these new cars use phillips-head body screws.
Bad News – the body screws are small and short.
The chassis is body specific; otherwise the architecture is the same as the 2017/18 Porsche.
Guide, wheels, tires, motor mount, float plate.
*The guide screw is still a #6-Torx."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontrosePIT TABLE LIGHTS
I have purchased three 36inch LED shop lights – for $15/ea! These have a very high output (4,000 Lumens) and should light up the pit table very nicely. I will install soon, hanging from the ceiling.
Alejandro has donated some LED strips and companion power supplies; I will experiment with mounting those under the shelf where the Truing machines and power supplies are."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseCOTA-Bob, thanks for your interest in our club and reaching out to us (altho in an unusual spot (Meeting Minutes?) in our forum – LOL! We are a non-profit club and therefore are not really allowed to have a vendor tent at COTA; which are very expensive BTW 🙁
DOCUMENTARY-To shoot videos of our track and club you may meet us on Thurs Feb 28 at Kings Hobby Shop (8810 N Lamar Blvd, Austin, TX 78753) between 6pm to 9pm (no cost to visit). Naturally you can get a good idea of our track and club via other parts of this website, and our Facebook site. Our track at Kings will be open for test-n-tune on Sat March 2 (11a-6p) since many of the club members will also be at COTA for the Pirelli-Blancpain GT race; however a few members can meet you at Kings if you can commit to a time.
RACING-As explained on our site et al. we primarily race 1/32 and 1/24 scale cars; our track is not set up or banked for door-stops/wings, and we are dry (no glue), and prohibit silicone tires. So, if your cars fit these constraints you are welcome to run them (or borrow some of the shops rent cars; or a member’s spare). Mark Lucas (2019 secretary)
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseSome other notes:
Ary brought up forming an American team to race at a Scaleauto World Championship near Barcelona in July. Russell showed how he planned to repair the south corner of the track in the near future."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseDIBS – RS0023 Chrysler VIPER GTS-R P Belmondo Racing Gulf #57
spyder/21"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontrosePLUMBING
The back toilet has been fixed again (Feb 2) … the decaying plumbing is blocking the innards of the filler with flack and rust – so about every 6-8 months it looks like it will have to be replaced.
LIGHTING
The right hand florescent light has ‘bit the dust’. The bulbs are good, but this funky light does Not have a ballast or starter like typical shop lights – both seem to be handled by the proprietary switch and the wiring is the most complex I have ever seen in a florescent fixture. Further the 18-inch size is rather odd (24s are more common) so I can’t just replace the head unit.
1* Rudy has donated to the club a Ferrari red gooseneck lamp with a round bulb. I will replace the right hand florescent with this.
2* As per our club meeting 2/9 I will get some LEP shop lights to hang from the ceiling; -and- see if we can get some small under-counter LEDs to further improve visibility."... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseTom – the Shutdown and trap area are important and tricky. Alot of damage can occur to cars if the shutdown does not slow the cars and if the trap allows cars to fall on the floor.
If you are running glue the combination of the glue (heavier than the light glue used on the running surface) and shorted-rails provide braking. If you are Not using glue you may need to consider embedding block magnets (available from HaborFreight for 99c a pair) into routed holes in the wood next to the rails. These slow the cars by attracting the motor can and any steel in the chassis. Based on my experience you will need several pairs of magnets 5 to 10 pairs per lane spaced about 3-inches apart from the previous pair. #97505, #98406
https://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-2-ceramic-block-magnets-97504.htmlSince you ran out of room for a “bag/net” you may need to experiment with a ‘box’ made out of foam, such as used for pool floats (small life jackets and boxing practice helmets). The purpose of the box is to prevent cars from bouncing out onto the floor.
https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/trc-recreation-texas-tech-university-sunsation%C2%AE-pool-float#repChildCatid=3812642
https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/trc-recreation-kids-texas-a-m-university-super-soft%E2%84%A2-life-vest#repChildCatid=3812624"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseMark/DATTO
1. If you do Not have the adjustable chassis the replacement is: Slot.it SICS08T-60B Lancia LC2 Chassis EVO6, https://www.professormotor.com/product-p/sics08t-60b.htm2. F30s are easy to find and *if needed* buy some from a club member (I have some spares as do most members). In lieu of cash, trade them the ones you ordered when they arrive, no need to wait on the shipment. Ditto for other common parts such as the deep wood guide Slot.it SICH07 and braid.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseN22s -these are similar to some of the softer NSR tires in that gluing can be tricky. CA, even the rubber-infused type, can easily split the tread, esp. near the molding nipple and seam.
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseErick – great car! Lancias are in the minority but the ones that run seem to be competitive. Yes you may want to have a labeler ready to make a new number (I have one at the track). A tape stripe on the wing or a few alternate sponsor decals may also be useful.
With the non-adjustable chassis, you can still adjust downward axle height with an Eyelit, and upward height with x2 2mm*5mm grub screws in 2mm drilled holes (many chassis have at least the dimples for the bottom grubs) .
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseMark (“not_spyder”) – for most race series we do not require advance-declaration, you can show up on the first day or any following weekend. The only condition is that you Have prepp’ed your car to comply with the published rules. For example, for the Group-C you cannot enter a GP-C Carrera or Fly even if the livery, body, etc. match the real Group-C era. But, for more ‘open’ spec series as long as you avoid anything ‘Prohibited’ you can enter.
As Erick said, if you have a duplicate livery, many of us have spare numbers or decals to make your car unique. A strip of black or colored electrical tape on the wing may be good enough.
**Naturally, Do Not Avoid Practice and show up Sat at 1:10pm expecting to do decent-get some practice time in Thurs nights (6-9p) and Sat morning (10a-12:45p)**
If you have submitted your member application and first-years dues, all you need is $5 (and some patience)! Our $300 DeFalco controllers, $200 tire-truers, $70 pinion presses etc are yours to borrow for free! It is recommended you race at least 5 rounds of a series, but you can race one weekend or all six; and you can start whatever weekend you are ready.
Note for the Group-C – a Quarterly race, we generally race two weekends each month, usually the first and third Sat. The 2nd Sat is when we have the half-year series and a team meeting. The 4th week is used for -events at COTA, -extra build and practice for current or upcoming series, -fun events (HO, Drags, vintage, ad-hoc), -or hangout with your family :O
EXPECTATIONS – you may do Great or Bad in your first race. No Big Deal – everyone will help you tune your car and driving techniques, as much as you want and accept. We All have good and bad races; but we come back for the fun and camaraderie! It often takes a few series before you get the “feel” of the track and how much tuning is needed for being competitive. We will help you develop both your driving and engineering skills, as well as sharing what vendors are good sources and what parts are interchangeable among series. Likewise most members will lend you whatever tools you need or sell/trade a part you need (but have not received in the mail yet).
If you don’t think your car is ready – you can still race! Many members have ‘spares’ in their livery that you can borrow for free (on race day), and of course you can use the DeFalco or PARMA controllers for free. If you are a member you pay $5, if not yet $10. You do Not have to pay for all races in the future of a series; just pay as you play.
If you choose to sit out-you can learn alot by Marshaling; *after watching experienced members marshal. Pay close attention to lane colors, don’t look away from your corner, don’t think too-much and take too much time to re-slot a car.
Group-C prep is real EASY. Buy a Porsche 962 or 956; or Lancia. Add Slot.It Zero-grip tires up front, Slot.It F30s in the rear. Replace the stock guide with a Slot.It “deep wood” guide and GO! After the first race or some practice you *may want to add one Slot.It “magnet shaped tungsten weight” in front of the motor, and maybe replace the OEM black crown gear with a hotter Blue or Orange crown. There is not much more you are Allowed to do and in most cases not much you really Want to do to the car! The next trick is learn the “feel” of the track and how to drive it (e.g. where and how long to brake). It is typical to take three or more races to get the feel of the track under the pressure of racing – but it is all fun and if you stick it out you will love it!
"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with MontroseTom, looks Great! I am doing some fresh solder on my 1/24 drag cars to get ready, as well as a Flexi and Wingee (mass of a wing-car and thingee) for trying all the tracks out.
–Just curious, what will be your “sand-trap” for the drag strip? Some people use a nylon bag, others a net, other a foam trap.
–Are you using a single power-supply for all lanes, or splits (1 ps per two or three lanes?) For the strip are you using a battery system with 16volts or a single power supply?
–Are you thinking about leagues or ad-hoc races, or simply renting track time until interest grows?"... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
Sammy with Montrose
