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I think that the rules for the Monte Carlo series should be somewhat loose concerning wheel/tire width/track width. There are a lot of unknowns with the rally track for car size, width and so on. A small car with little wheels/tires may well outrun a larger car with wide tires. Keeping things open for the first races will allow for experimentation to find out what works. The balance between tire grip for the straights versus the cars sliding in the handbrake turns will be interesting.
Russell
The Tyco track I built for our son has 1/4″ masonite between all the track sections, but it would add weight to the track. I don’t think the track edge/border would be too much of a problem unless you were running magnetless cars.
Front Axle Grub Screws
I had the issue with the lower front axle grub screws not holding in the chassis; the grub screws would just spin. I took several strands of copper guide braid (maybe 6 or 7 strands), twisted it together and put it in the grub screw hole, with the end of it sticking out, and screwed in the grub screw. This seemed to make it hold. It stayed firm through the race last week.
Russell
Frank and everyone
As you can see in the photos, I have enough track to make this 4-lane layout that would fit on the rally track top (blue tape). It would be too much trouble to set it up temporarily, but I am working on a possible track mounting platform. I will keep you posted.
Russell
Hello Frank,
I started with a Model Motoring vibrator set in 1961 and followed with AFX. There are several of us in the club that are still fond of HO and have a number of cars; I have AFX’s through Mega G cars. we would set up an HO track on top of the cover for our rally track when we were located at King’s Hobby. I made plug-in adapters for Tyco/Aurora track that allow fitment of power supplies and modern controllers. I have enough lock-and-joiner track for a 4-lane track on top of our 4′ X 14′ rally track, but we are using the rally track frequently and setting up such a track takes a while. There is a possibility that I could make a table-top surface that would fit inside the rally track so that we would have quicker setup for both the rally track and HO. We do not have enough room in our clubhouse for a third stand-alone setup. We could possibly hang one from the ceiling as another alternative.
Is the 80′ track you mention, your track? I have never driven on a routed HO track; that would be cool. I wish we had room for one. Thanks so much for checking in with us. If you are ever in Austin on a Saturday, you should come by. We are normally there on Saturday afternoons, although sometimes we may not be.
Russell
I believe that I was the one who first bought one of the Group 2 BRM/TTX 1:24 “mini” cars for a possible series. I propose that we defer these cars for consideration for series in the second half of the year. I think that these cars would make an excellent series, I have not run any of them yet. Considering the array of chassis setups, some with differentials, some with freewheeling fronts, and the variety of cars, we need more time with these cars to see which cars and which setups we want to include for a series.
Russell
I believe that I was the one who brought up the Group 2 BRM/TTX 1:24 “mini” cars for a possible series. I propose that we defer these cars for consideration for series in the second half of the year. I think that these cars would make an excellent series, I have not run any of them yet. Considering the array of chassis setups, some with differentials, some with freewheeling fronts, and the variety of cars, we need more time with these cars to see which cars and which setups we want to include for a series.
Russell
I believe that I was the one who brought up the Group 2 BRM/TTX 1:24 “mini” cars for a possible series. I propose that we defer these cars for consideration for series in the second half of the year. I think that these cars would make an excellent series, I have not run any of them yet. Considering the array of chassis setups, some with differentials, some with freewheeling fronts, and the variety of cars, we need more time with these cars to see which cars and which setups we want to include for a series.
Russell
I had forgotten about Ary’s followup on NSR gears. It just goes to show how much information is in ASCC files.
Russel
I was a little slow to process the data. Since the Slot.it and NSR pinions have the same diameter, each pinion will have the same pitch as their counterpart in the other manufacturer. Eight and nine tooth pinions will have the best gear pitch; ten and eleven tooth pinions should be avoided.
Russell
Gear Pitch
Ary wrote a terrific article on gear pitch 10 years ago that everyone should read: http://austinslotcarclub.com/forums/topic/gears-pitch-mesh-a-look-into-slot-it-variable-pitch-gears/
With the diameter of Slot.it pinions fixed, the pitch varies with the number of teeth, while all Slot.it crown gears have a fixed pitch of 48; their diameter changes. For that reason, the optimum Slot.it gear mesh is achieved with an 8 tooth Slot.it pinion. 9 tooth is OK too; 10 tooth is marginal, and 11 tooth should be avoided. I do not know the pitch of NSR pinions and crowns to know how they compare to the Slot.it gears. The pitch of the NSR gears can be calculated by using the formulas in Ary’s article.
This is a separate issue than allowing Slot.it gears in the NSR cars, but if anyone does so, the pitch should be calculated to see how well disparate gears will mesh.
Russell
I like the idea of running small cars on the Rally track. There are quite a variety of small cars that should run well on the rally track. Many of these cars are too small to run well on the big track; there are cars like a birdcage Maserati, Chaparral 1, King Cobra, original 911, C1 Corvette and StingRay, Lancia D50, Ferrari Dino, and many others. Perhaps we could run an “open” class.
I agree that stop collars can produce more drag, but they are not the only option. Attached is a photo of my Jaguar lightweight that I built four years ago. I am doing some work on it. I originally had two stop collars on it. I put a .005 Slot Car Corner axle spacer, then a .100 axle spacer on the outside of the motor pod, opposite the crown teeth. This limits the axle side play away from a tight gear mesh. The original axle collar is still located behind the crown gear, but it no longer makes contact; the .100 spacer is the limiter. I will probably be removing the collar. Although not totally necessary, I will probably put a spacer on the other end of the axle that will limit the axle play toward tight gear mesh. That way, instead of side load to the crown gear, the side loads will be to the two axle spacers. Once adjusted there will be no more drag than axle spacers. I will see how it works when I have a chance to test it.
Russell
