Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Frank and everyone
As you can see in the photos, I have enough track to make this 4-lane layout that would fit on the rally track top (blue tape). It would be too much trouble to set it up temporarily, but I am working on a possible track mounting platform. I will keep you posted.
Russell
Hello Frank,
I started with a Model Motoring vibrator set in 1961 and followed with AFX. There are several of us in the club that are still fond of HO and have a number of cars; I have AFX’s through Mega G cars. we would set up an HO track on top of the cover for our rally track when we were located at King’s Hobby. I made plug-in adapters for Tyco/Aurora track that allow fitment of power supplies and modern controllers. I have enough lock-and-joiner track for a 4-lane track on top of our 4′ X 14′ rally track, but we are using the rally track frequently and setting up such a track takes a while. There is a possibility that I could make a table-top surface that would fit inside the rally track so that we would have quicker setup for both the rally track and HO. We do not have enough room in our clubhouse for a third stand-alone setup. We could possibly hang one from the ceiling as another alternative.
Is the 80′ track you mention, your track? I have never driven on a routed HO track; that would be cool. I wish we had room for one. Thanks so much for checking in with us. If you are ever in Austin on a Saturday, you should come by. We are normally there on Saturday afternoons, although sometimes we may not be.
Russell
I believe that I was the one who first bought one of the Group 2 BRM/TTX 1:24 “mini” cars for a possible series. I propose that we defer these cars for consideration for series in the second half of the year. I think that these cars would make an excellent series, I have not run any of them yet. Considering the array of chassis setups, some with differentials, some with freewheeling fronts, and the variety of cars, we need more time with these cars to see which cars and which setups we want to include for a series.
Russell
I believe that I was the one who brought up the Group 2 BRM/TTX 1:24 “mini” cars for a possible series. I propose that we defer these cars for consideration for series in the second half of the year. I think that these cars would make an excellent series, I have not run any of them yet. Considering the array of chassis setups, some with differentials, some with freewheeling fronts, and the variety of cars, we need more time with these cars to see which cars and which setups we want to include for a series.
Russell
I believe that I was the one who brought up the Group 2 BRM/TTX 1:24 “mini” cars for a possible series. I propose that we defer these cars for consideration for series in the second half of the year. I think that these cars would make an excellent series, I have not run any of them yet. Considering the array of chassis setups, some with differentials, some with freewheeling fronts, and the variety of cars, we need more time with these cars to see which cars and which setups we want to include for a series.
Russell
I had forgotten about Ary’s followup on NSR gears. It just goes to show how much information is in ASCC files.
Russel
I was a little slow to process the data. Since the Slot.it and NSR pinions have the same diameter, each pinion will have the same pitch as their counterpart in the other manufacturer. Eight and nine tooth pinions will have the best gear pitch; ten and eleven tooth pinions should be avoided.
Russell
Gear Pitch
Ary wrote a terrific article on gear pitch 10 years ago that everyone should read: http://austinslotcarclub.com/forums/topic/gears-pitch-mesh-a-look-into-slot-it-variable-pitch-gears/
With the diameter of Slot.it pinions fixed, the pitch varies with the number of teeth, while all Slot.it crown gears have a fixed pitch of 48; their diameter changes. For that reason, the optimum Slot.it gear mesh is achieved with an 8 tooth Slot.it pinion. 9 tooth is OK too; 10 tooth is marginal, and 11 tooth should be avoided. I do not know the pitch of NSR pinions and crowns to know how they compare to the Slot.it gears. The pitch of the NSR gears can be calculated by using the formulas in Ary’s article.
This is a separate issue than allowing Slot.it gears in the NSR cars, but if anyone does so, the pitch should be calculated to see how well disparate gears will mesh.
Russell
I like the idea of running small cars on the Rally track. There are quite a variety of small cars that should run well on the rally track. Many of these cars are too small to run well on the big track; there are cars like a birdcage Maserati, Chaparral 1, King Cobra, original 911, C1 Corvette and StingRay, Lancia D50, Ferrari Dino, and many others. Perhaps we could run an “open” class.
I agree that stop collars can produce more drag, but they are not the only option. Attached is a photo of my Jaguar lightweight that I built four years ago. I am doing some work on it. I originally had two stop collars on it. I put a .005 Slot Car Corner axle spacer, then a .100 axle spacer on the outside of the motor pod, opposite the crown teeth. This limits the axle side play away from a tight gear mesh. The original axle collar is still located behind the crown gear, but it no longer makes contact; the .100 spacer is the limiter. I will probably be removing the collar. Although not totally necessary, I will probably put a spacer on the other end of the axle that will limit the axle play toward tight gear mesh. That way, instead of side load to the crown gear, the side loads will be to the two axle spacers. Once adjusted there will be no more drag than axle spacers. I will see how it works when I have a chance to test it.
Russell
John
The issue with the stock crowns is the wearing of the channel for the motor shaft, right? (too tight? too binding?) Or is there some issue with the mesh itself? If it is the wearing/friction, then cutting off the end of the motor shaft and adjusting everything tightly, without too much side axle play, would seem the simplest solution. Assuming that would be legal….. I have not had a chance to run my car at all, but that is probably the first thing I would try.
.
Erik
CSX 2299 is not a 427. 427s start with chassis number CSX 3XXX. Your car was the second Daytona Coupe completed. I have the Monogram Viking Blue #21 CSX 2299. While we encourage period liveries and allow fantasy liveries, there is no need to repaint your car. Besides, I think the 65 Guardsman Blue car looks better. My #21 has a 3D printed chassis and a thin, sheet aluminum interior, with thin-cast resin dash, console, driver, and spare tire/wheel. I have flat sheet plastic interiors in other TT cars, with dash top and driver head and shoulders that look fine and are easy to do. I would think that the front motor would be very difficult to make competitive.
CSX 2299, after an impressive list of drivers in period, was sold to Michael Shoen in 1969 for $5100. Mike Shoen wrote The Cobra-Ferrari Wars.
Looking forward to seeing your car. I plan on being at HQ on Saturday and bring my six TT cars to test.
Russell
