Trans-Am, Modern F1 & GT Unlimited Rules

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    • #189
      Avatar photoAutorama
      Keymaster

      Please review and discuss the rules draft for each series.

      Trans-Am

      Modern F1

      Gt Unlimited

      I will remove the draft comment whenever everyone is satisfied.

    • #1169
      Avatar photoBellator
      Keymaster

      I think we can allow gluing tires in the TransAm and F1 series, as we aren’t changing wheels.

      In the Open GT class we might want to qualify the tire extending beyond the body for those cars that actually had that on the track. (SEAT Leon comes to mind.)

      Otherwise, so far so good. Interested to see other’s feedback.

    • #1170
      Avatar photoAutorama
      Keymaster

      Bellator wrote:

      I think we can allow gluing tires in the TransAm and F1 series, as we aren’t changing wheels.

      The only problem with that is that we don’t allow wheels to be exchanged or modified. I would probably ruin the plastic wheels if I had to remove a glued tire.

      On the GT rules; Does this sound right: b) Body must be whole.?
      I’m trying to say that the body may not have any holes and that all main parts need to be present. I guess we should add that a painted cockpit is needed.

    • #1171
      Avatar photoporsche917
      Moderator

      Gluing Tires
      I would prefer to not allow gluing of tires in all but the GT Unlimited. My big reason for not gluing tires was the possible mess caused to the track.

      BRM Series
      What happened to the BRM series? I just purchased all the parts along with another car just for this series. I hate to think I need to start talking smack just to get a series started.

      Marty

    • #1172
      Avatar photoAutorama
      Keymaster

      Marty,

      Maybe you can do the BRM series Thursday nights instead of the Ad Hoc series, but we should open a separate thread for this discussion.

    • #1173
      Avatar phototurboman93
      Participant

      I’m good with this except 1 thing. Modern F1 needs to be run at 10V at well. I think 12 volts is too hot for the FF050 motors that are in those cars.

    • #1174
      Avatar photoAutorama
      Keymaster

      The following has changed under GT rules:

      Body:
      b) Body must be whole (model must look stock).
      c) Painted cockpit is required.

      Tires:
      c) No traction compounds are allowed.

    • #1175
      Avatar phototele52
      Participant

      Racers,

      FYI, I just checked with Rudy at Kings. He has not contacted Super Tires yet about stocking Yellow Dog tires, but was going to try to fit them onto his plate today.

      F1 Tires: Sunday, I was working on prepping my F1 Scaley car for testing and evaluation. I had purchased some Slot.It F1 tires to try, but because of the narrow raised band on the Scaley rear wheels, the Slot.It tires do not fit very well. When installed, they take on a concave tread profile, tend to move around on the wheel, and are difficult to true. Russell had suggested maybe we could add an o-ring to each side of the wheel raised center area prior to installing the Slot.It tire, and possibly they would cure the loose fit issue. I went ahead and trued the stock tires and installed them for now.

      Not having used Yellow Dog tires before, does anyone know if they fit the Scaley wheel better than Slot.It F1 tires do?

      Jim J.

    • #1176
      Avatar photoAutorama
      Keymaster

      Jim,

      There are Yellow Dogs made specifically for Scalex F1 rims: part# 1103Y (Outer Diameter: .794″ / Width: .453″).

      What Russell suggested works perfectly, I did it to mine. I glued the o-rings, sanded them to be at the same level as the raised area and installed the F22’s.

    • #1177
      Avatar phototele52
      Participant

      Ary,

      I would say by the way the rules currently are written for Modern F1, this mod would be legal. You are still using the Scaley wheel and are not gluing on the F22’s, only modifying the rim to accept Slot.It tires. Am I correct in my assumptions?

      Also, what size and how many o-rings did you have to install on the rims to make the ridge wide enough? I think I still have a square edged o-ring belt taken from an old movie projector. You could cut a length of o-ring to wrap around each edge of the rim and carefully glue it in place with Walthers Goo. If I can find the belt, I’m sure there is enough material to do as many as 8 rims. Once the glue dries, sand the square o-ring to match the wheel ridge height.

      I’ve had a tough time truing F22’s. They are almost as bad as F15’s as far as graining goes, and I do go very slow with the sanding process. When I tried to round the corners, it just led to more issues with the tire, no matter what grit of sandpaper I tried.

      Jim J.

    • #1178
      Avatar photoAutorama
      Keymaster

       

      tele52 wrote:

      I would say by the way the rules currently are written for Modern F1, this mod would be legal.

       

      I would assume that this is legal. If the majority agrees with that, I will add it to the rules.

      Now; the F22’s are not performing as well as the yellow dogs. I happened to have a bag of F22’s and ended up installing them instead of ordering the yellow dogs.

      I would recommend buying the appropriate yellow dogs and forget about the deal with o-rings, etc.

      BTW, here are some pictures:

      O-rings installed (CA glued) and sanded.

      O-ring used. I don’t know the size. A few years ago I purchased a box of assorted o-rings (300 or so) from Harbor Freight — they may have it still.

    • #1179
      Avatar photoAutorama
      Keymaster

      Update:

      Both Trans-Am and Modern Formula One will be raced at 10 Volts.

    • #1180
      Avatar photoBellator
      Keymaster

      Who broke what last night running at 12v? 😉

       

      Autorama wrote:

      Update:

       

      Both Trans-Am and Modern Formula One will be raced at 10 Volts.

       

    • #1181
      Avatar photoAutorama
      Keymaster

      Brian,

      Shawn had already suggested to race the F1’s @ 10Volts and he was right about it. Yesterday we raced Trans-Ams and apparently the motors had been broken-in … it was fast @ 10Volts. Marty was the only one that stayed on the track @ 12Volts, he had already set the car for that voltage with some weight. In the end we agreed to change it to 10 Volts.

    • #1182
      Avatar photoporsche917
      Moderator

      I race at 12 volts or nothing! Just kidding. I did like running at 12 volts. My car is set up to run with weight at 12 volts and the differences in everyone’s motors were less aparent at 12 volts than they were at 10.

      Just like running Kings Scalextric rental cars at 6 volts for the kiddies where tt only takes one slip up and you are done because there is not enough power to catch back up. 12 volts requires more control all around especially with the cars being as top heavy as they are.

      Wait a minute, what about eleven?

      Marty

    • #1183
      Avatar photoAutorama
      Keymaster

      After further testings, we will be racing the series at 11 volts — and yes, it is final this time :lol:.

    • #1184
      Avatar photoraces2u
      Participant

      I may be a neophyte to the serious world of competitive slot racing, but I don’t understand why you limit the F1 slot cars to Scalextric only. I also am not 100% in accordance with the “no magnets” rule for F1 either, as the real F1 cars are designed to give the maximum amount of downforce possible. In fact, a real F1 car generates so much down force that in theory it could drive upside down on a ceiling at 120 MPH. That is why real F1 cars don’t “drift” and how they hug the tight turns so well. In fact, the drivers are subjected to over 4G’s in some turns. I would gladly participate in an F1 race where any and all magnets were allowed as long as they did not interfere with the look or integrity of the stock chassis, and I would really like to see how the various types stand up against each other, being that some brands have turning front wheels while others don’t. I need to keep abreast of what is going on with you all as I would really like to participate in the next F1 race, mags or no mags, scaley or otherwise.

    • #1185
      Avatar photoBellator
      Keymaster

      races2u wrote:

      I may be a neophyte to the serious world of competitive slot racing, but I don’t understand why you limit the F1 slot cars to Scalextric only.

      This keeps the playing field more equal, placing more emphasis on driving skills than car manufacturer.

      races2u wrote:

      I also am not 100% in accordance with the “no magnets” rule for F1 either, as the real F1 cars are designed to give the maximum amount of downforce possible. In fact, a real F1 car generates so much down force that in theory it could drive upside down on a ceiling at 120 MPH. That is why real F1 cars don’t “drift” and how they hug the tight turns so well. In fact, the drivers are subjected to over 4G’s in some turns.

      Most of us understand and appreciate the basic physics of the 1:1 F1 cars, but keep in mind that even an F1 car will drift in a tight turn. Tight turns are more about mechanical grip and car control than aerodynamic grip. The downforce required to perform the mythical upside down driving occurs at speed on straights and long high-radius sweeping turns.

      races2u wrote:

      I would gladly participate in an F1 race where any and all magnets were allowed as long as they did not interfere with the look or integrity of the stock chassis, and I would really like to see how the various types stand up against each other, being that some brands have turning front wheels while others don’t.

      The reason we don’t race magnets is that it becomes more a race of mashing throttles than real car control. Another reason is that when magnets loose their grip they do so in a very dramatic way, and with little or no warning. That leads to broken cars and damaged scenery. We use tire selection to replicate mechanical grip in the turns.

      The manufacturers are different enough that racing them against each other in anything other than varying degrees of “open” classes (in which the rules allow many modifications) is not viable. For example: as a general rule the SCX cars don’t run well at anything less than 14 volts. The Carrera cars tend to carry more weight and require more voltage to be performant. And the Scaley cars have their own performance envelope, that tends to emerge at 11 volts and higher.

      If you follow the various proxy series on any of the national and international forums you will see that they are designed in a way that either pits same-manufacturer cars of the same class against each other, or they allow modifications to the cars that encourage the equalization of their varying performance ranges. The allowable modifications are designed with a certain amount of realism in mind. (i.e. GT2 car modifications will tend to constrain performance so they will be slower than GT1 cars, which will be constrained to be slower than what the rules will allow for an LMP car.)

      races2u wrote:

      I need to keep abreast of what is going on with you all as I would really like to participate in the next F1 race, mags or no mags, scaley or otherwise.

      We start our F1 series in Q3.

      B

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