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Please review and discuss the rules draft for each series.
I will remove the draft comment whenever everyone is satisfied.
I think we can allow gluing tires in the TransAm and F1 series, as we aren’t changing wheels.
In the Open GT class we might want to qualify the tire extending beyond the body for those cars that actually had that on the track. (SEAT Leon comes to mind.)
Otherwise, so far so good. Interested to see other’s feedback.
Build it strong.
Keep it simple.
Make it work.
(Leroy Grumman)Bellator wrote:I think we can allow gluing tires in the TransAm and F1 series, as we aren’t changing wheels.
The only problem with that is that we don’t allow wheels to be exchanged or modified. I would probably ruin the plastic wheels if I had to remove a glued tire.
On the GT rules; Does this sound right: b) Body must be whole.?
I’m trying to say that the body may not have any holes and that all main parts need to be present. I guess we should add that a painted cockpit is needed.Gluing Tires
I would prefer to not allow gluing of tires in all but the GT Unlimited. My big reason for not gluing tires was the possible mess caused to the track.BRM Series
What happened to the BRM series? I just purchased all the parts along with another car just for this series. I hate to think I need to start talking smack just to get a series started.Marty
Marty,
Maybe you can do the BRM series Thursday nights instead of the Ad Hoc series, but we should open a separate thread for this discussion.
I’m good with this except 1 thing. Modern F1 needs to be run at 10V at well. I think 12 volts is too hot for the FF050 motors that are in those cars.
The following has changed under GT rules:
Body:
b) Body must be whole (model must look stock).
c) Painted cockpit is required.Tires:
c) No traction compounds are allowed.Racers,
FYI, I just checked with Rudy at Kings. He has not contacted Super Tires yet about stocking Yellow Dog tires, but was going to try to fit them onto his plate today.
F1 Tires: Sunday, I was working on prepping my F1 Scaley car for testing and evaluation. I had purchased some Slot.It F1 tires to try, but because of the narrow raised band on the Scaley rear wheels, the Slot.It tires do not fit very well. When installed, they take on a concave tread profile, tend to move around on the wheel, and are difficult to true. Russell had suggested maybe we could add an o-ring to each side of the wheel raised center area prior to installing the Slot.It tire, and possibly they would cure the loose fit issue. I went ahead and trued the stock tires and installed them for now.
Not having used Yellow Dog tires before, does anyone know if they fit the Scaley wheel better than Slot.It F1 tires do?
Jim J.
Jim,
There are Yellow Dogs made specifically for Scalex F1 rims: part# 1103Y (Outer Diameter: .794″ / Width: .453″).
What Russell suggested works perfectly, I did it to mine. I glued the o-rings, sanded them to be at the same level as the raised area and installed the F22’s.
Ary,
I would say by the way the rules currently are written for Modern F1, this mod would be legal. You are still using the Scaley wheel and are not gluing on the F22’s, only modifying the rim to accept Slot.It tires. Am I correct in my assumptions?
Also, what size and how many o-rings did you have to install on the rims to make the ridge wide enough? I think I still have a square edged o-ring belt taken from an old movie projector. You could cut a length of o-ring to wrap around each edge of the rim and carefully glue it in place with Walthers Goo. If I can find the belt, I’m sure there is enough material to do as many as 8 rims. Once the glue dries, sand the square o-ring to match the wheel ridge height.
I’ve had a tough time truing F22’s. They are almost as bad as F15’s as far as graining goes, and I do go very slow with the sanding process. When I tried to round the corners, it just led to more issues with the tire, no matter what grit of sandpaper I tried.
Jim J.
tele52 wrote:I would say by the way the rules currently are written for Modern F1, this mod would be legal.
I would assume that this is legal. If the majority agrees with that, I will add it to the rules.
Now; the F22’s are not performing as well as the yellow dogs. I happened to have a bag of F22’s and ended up installing them instead of ordering the yellow dogs.
I would recommend buying the appropriate yellow dogs and forget about the deal with o-rings, etc.
BTW, here are some pictures:
O-rings installed (CA glued) and sanded.
O-ring used. I don’t know the size. A few years ago I purchased a box of assorted o-rings (300 or so) from Harbor Freight — they may have it still.
Who broke what last night running at 12v? 😉
Autorama wrote:Update:
Both Trans-Am and Modern Formula One will be raced at 10 Volts.
Build it strong.
Keep it simple.
Make it work.
(Leroy Grumman)Brian,
Shawn had already suggested to race the F1’s @ 10Volts and he was right about it. Yesterday we raced Trans-Ams and apparently the motors had been broken-in … it was fast @ 10Volts. Marty was the only one that stayed on the track @ 12Volts, he had already set the car for that voltage with some weight. In the end we agreed to change it to 10 Volts.
I race at 12 volts or nothing! Just kidding. I did like running at 12 volts. My car is set up to run with weight at 12 volts and the differences in everyone’s motors were less aparent at 12 volts than they were at 10.
Just like running Kings Scalextric rental cars at 6 volts for the kiddies where tt only takes one slip up and you are done because there is not enough power to catch back up. 12 volts requires more control all around especially with the cars being as top heavy as they are.
Wait a minute, what about eleven?
Marty
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