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THUNDERSLOT Parts Analysis
— All chassis and body screws have a Torx-T6 head.
— Wheel grubs are 4-40 with a head for a 0.05-inch (1.3mm) hex driver (same as NSRs and common on 1/24 cars). Axle adjustment screws are also 4-40 – but Randy’s research says they are not the same as the wheel/crown screws! (different thread spacing?)
— OEM Tires are quite soft, seem like a 30-shore or maybe 25. The tread is easily trued off. Rated size is D:21mm x W:10mm //Diam (20.40mm), Width (9.90mm)
— Rear wheels look good but are plastic.
— The front-end is very light and wheelies are possible if your braids are not groomed tight to the guide shoe. OEM Braids are reasonable but may benefit from replacement by softer Slot.It copper braid.
— OEM guide looks reasonable, may be beneficial to replace with Slot.It deep-wood guide.
— Adding 3gm in the triangle of the pod, or 1~2 tungsten ‘magnet’ slugs in the chassis may prevent “Porposing” in the green-lane at the button-mans hairpin.
— Interior is Lexan with hard-plastic driver and hard-plastic windows.
— OEM Sidewinder motor is can-drive, rated equal to the Slot.It Orange (21.5k-RPM, 175qm-cm-TRQ) but seems to have more torque than rated.
— Triangle pod is similar to the NSR delta pod, including plastic ‘nuts’ for the pod screws.
*OEM = original equipment from manufacturer -
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AVAILABLE MODELS
#2-Red-coupe Surtees/Hobbs-BOAC500 Brands Hatch 1967 (CA00101S/W)
#2-Yellow-coupe Bonnier/Axelsson-BOAC500 Brands Hatch 1968 (CA00102S/W)
#8-Blue-coupe Leslie/Motschenbacher-Daytona 24Hrs 1969 (CA00103S/W)
#30-Blue-spyder Gurney CANAM Bridgehampton 1966 (CA00201S/W)
#52-White-spyder Revson CANAM Laguna Seca 1967 (CA00202S/W)
White-kit Coupe (CA001KS/W)
White-kit Spyder/CanAm (CA002KS/W) -
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More thoughts on the Thunderslot series:
The “white kit” comes with enough parts to build several versions of the Lola T70 Spyder:
There are two windshields, two dashboards, two driver heads, four roll bars and three engine options. There is a Chevy engine with vertical intakes, a cross-ram block as run by Donahue/Penske, and a Ford Indy dual overhead cam engine with bundle-of-snakes exhaust over the rear deck. Note that the engine supplied with the Gurney #30 car is incorrect as it has Chevrolet valve covers rather than the Gurney-Weslake heads on a small block Ford engine. Right now I am thinking that I am going to race a Spyder, set up as the #21 car with the Ford dual overhead cam engine as raced by Parnelli Jones and Mario Andretti. Presumably, this car, as well as others, will as some point be available from Thunderslot.
In comparing the coupes and spyders, my red coupe weighs 63.1 grams and the #30 Gurney spyder weighs 58.5 grams. The front/rear weight distribution between the two cars is within one percentage point. It remains to be seen how the two cars compare on the track. The spyder is a good bit lighter but the coupe may have a slightly higher center of gravity which may help weight transfer to the outside wheel for more cornering grip.
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Preliminary Thunderslot Series Rules
Guys, I apologize because I have been so busy that I have not had time to post rules for the Thunderslot series. Mark has taken the time to produce a set of rules and I have discussed them with him. I will post these preliminary rules shortly, with the goal of having final rules by Feb. 1. That will give everyone a couple of months to get their cars ready for the series.
My thoughts are to keep the cars as stock as possible, with two goals in mind: a level playing field and to keep the costs down. Any changes from stock that make the cars faster, as, say, independent front axles, will mean everyone will need to make the changes to be competitive. Rule changes from stock would primarily be due to a problem with stock parts–erratic behavior, failures, etc.–and not just to make the cars faster. To that end I propose stock chassis, stock anglewinder motor pod, stock guide, stock front wheels, stock motor, gears, axles, etc. The low grip front tires may be OK and either the trued original treaded rear tires or the optional slicks would be allowed. Probably, the optional larger diameter rear wheels may be allowed, due to concern that worn tires on the original wheels may mean that the chassis bottoms out on the track. Personally, I will try the original wheels to see if the tires will last.
I do not see a need for tire diameter specs in this series. With the adjustable front axle height, it is not necessary on the front, and the rears are self-limiting, due to low clearance below the chassis. Track would be limited by not exceeding the width of the body.
Added weight, above the chassis would be allowed. I think installing grub screws in the provided chassis holes on the edge, to control float to the body, would be OK.
Dibs should be called on car liveries. For duplicate liveries, car numbers must be changed. As I was the first to buy one of these cars, I would like to call dibs on the red Lola coupe #2. However, if I decide to run a roadster, this car livery would be available. If more cars become available, they would also be allowed, pending any production changes, different from the original cars. If anyone notices any changes between any of the existing or upcoming cars, such as width, motor, wheels, weight, etc., please bring it to my attention as soon as possible.
I am also considering running the series at 12 volts. I did some brief running with my cars on Saturday, while running the Revo Slot car, and the cars were controllable and very quick. I would like to hear what everyone thinks about this.
If anyone has input as to the rules, please post to this forum. Reasonable rules changes would be considered.
Thanks
Russell
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I do not like the idea of truing the front tires on stock plastic wheels and force fit axles. My roadster seems to bounce on the un-trued fronts. Marty tells me a very light touch on the truer will preserve the stock tire and wheel, but will it preserve the force fit on the axle?
I have had the #30 Gurney roadster for almost 4 months. I would change the number to 48 if I must to satisfy the “dibs” idea, but only reluctantly. It may be too late to really call dibs. (Letting Slot.it McLarens in the series would make more cars available;)
11 volts seems plenty on this light car.
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I have changed the number on my blue and silver Revo Slot to 68 with red numbers. Now it also has blue wheels in front and silver in rear to match the body colors.
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I would like to call Daytona 24 hours 1969 (#8) as my car for the Thunderslot series.
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I trued the front tires of the ThunderSlot carefully and discovered three things. The front axle is NOT knurled, so the plastic wheels side off without damage. The plastic wheels have inserts so I could put the tire truer axle through the wheels. I trued very carefully, test driving twice, still hopping after first true. Then discovered that the fronts were true but soft, very unlike our usual hard zero grips. I did not run laps after the last true, but expect real good times. This is also the car that lost a front axle height adjustment grub and I am still waiting for those parts.
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I also will be running the Red coupe #2 ill have to change the number.
Jordan will be running Dana # 52
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Do the NSRs fit the wheels OK? What is the part number? If the Thunderslot hard tires are so bad, it looks like it it will either be the NSRs or the stock treaded tires. Anyone else tried the optional tires?
I will extend the date for final Thunderslot rules to this weekend.
This is the car that I will be running:
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I trued the front stock tires on the stock plastic wheels like Marty suggested. Slow and light touch. They are round now but they have differing amounts of tread in patches around the tire. If I followed the regular club practice of truing tires until all of the tread is gone, I might have problems, but so far so good. The read slicks that came in the box are OK, but they lost a little chunk where the grub screw driver passes against the sidewall of the tire.
I’ll have the car long Saturday if you want to check it out.
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The NSR front tires seem to work fine on the plastic front wheels as the dimensions are very similar to the NSR wheels. The tires are 18×8 size and are part number 5226. I have trued one and it came out nice and I will true the other one this evening and let you know how it goes.
I could true the stock tires but I was afraid they would gum up when I went to true them down as much as I need to. Thoughts?
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OK, I take back what I said in my last post. The NSR tires are ever sol slightly too big and move around on the ThurderSlot front wheels. I also tried some Slot It front tires but had the same issue. I then moved to the stock tires and tried to true them to the point where they didn’t have any tread and in doing so melted the rubber because the tires are too soft. I am trying to clean them up and see if I can get them to work. Does anyone have any suggestions?
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ThunderSlot just announced their new cars for 2018. Here is the one we need now!
http://www.slotcar-today.com/en/notices/2018/02/thunderslot-2018-7025.php
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Marty
I have trued both the stock, treaded rear tires and the standard slick rear tires with no issue. I was surprised to hear that you had trouble with the stock fronts. In my cars, the stock fronts were already pretty round and I have not noticed any issue or bouncing of the front end. I have not yet tried truing the stock fronts.
The Thunderslot McLarens would be welcome in the series, pending a check of the cars for differences. If there is a difference in width, we would need to have a track spec. I was hoping to get by without one, just using the rule about extending past the body. I have noticed that the roadster Lola body may be slightly narrower in the rear than the coupe. In my swapping of chassis between the coupe and the roadster, I did not adjust the chassis when I went back and forth. The roadster was just slightly faster, a factor that may be mitigated if it can has a slightly narrower rear track.
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I just trued two sets of the original treaded front tires and did not have a problem. I took it slow, did not use any lighter fluid. It is not necessary to completely erase the tread; you only need to true until the tire is round. My preference is to run these tires, but we can vote by Saturday about allowing the Slot.it 15X8 standard aluminum front wheel with Slot.it Zero Grips as options. Please vote either in this forum or at the race on Saturday.
Also, I believe that Thunderslot no longer uses the #4-40 sets screw and instead uses the M2.5X3 grub screws for everything. Care must be taken with rear wheels to see which screw the wheels take. My earlier ones were #4-40 but my white kit came with all M2.5X3 screws, which fit the wheels that came with the kit.
Russell
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Russsell – I think I broke some rules in setting up my Thunderslot car but wanted to run it by you. I didn’t have any Slot It 15″ alloy short hub wheels so I used the Slot It 15″ plastic front wheels that come stock on all Slot It cars. Will these be allowed since the wheels that came off of the Thunderslot are basically the same thing?
I also did not have any Slot It guides and installed a Scaleauto one in its place. We have always allowed either a Scaleauto or Slot It guide so I didn’t know if this would be allowed. I would just run the stock guide but one of the screws holding the wire was striped and there was nothing I could do to fix it.
Thoughts?
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My intention for the series was to run the cars as stock as possible. The cars are nearly a 4 second car out of the box and I did not really see a reason to change anything. I wanted to minimize cost and have equalized cars in a driver’s series. The natural tendency with a slot car is to do everything you can to make the car quicker. Setup skill and parts selection play heavily into this. I only wanted to allow changes due to erratic behavior or problems with the stock parts. An example of what I did not want were independent front axles. This would probably make the cars faster, but if it was allowed, everyone would need to do it to be competitive.
In hindsight, I should have said that the original, treaded tires and original wheels would be required. Even without truing, the two cars I had ran well. But…..we usually allow hard front tires, and there were slicks available for the rear, so I went along with allowing them. Then, some members had trouble with truing the Thunderslot front tires and Slot.it ZeroGrips would not fit, so I said OK to the Slot.it 15 X 8 aluminum front wheel, figuring this was an easily available and cheap alternative. Now, if we allow the Slot.it plastic wheel, this brings a third wheel and third tire into the mix. Undoubtedly, one of these setups will be quicker than the others, so to get the fastest car, members may need to buy all the options and try them out, which defeats the purpose of a simple, driver’s series.
By the same token, allowing the Scale Auto quide may result in the same situation. In the past we have generally allowed Slot.it wood guides in nearly all series as the guide of choice. This guide is nearly 2mm. deeper than the Thunderslot guide. I don’t have a Scale Auto guide so I don’t know it’s dimensions and performance, but it could be a situation where it is faster. Then everyone may need to switch. As an alternative, I will make all grub screws on the ThunderSlot car open, so you could use a different screw in the Thunderslot guide.
I am sorry that there have been problems; it seems to be typical for a try-to-be stock series.
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So far on Thursday evenings David and I have my roadster and his coupe. As best I can tell David is a better driver than me, but the racing is close with 4.0′ s and some sub 4’s. We have practiced in real drastically different track conditions. I have broken the 4.0 second barrier, but not as often as David. David has not expressed faults on my car recently so it must be getting close. I am not having guide problems with the stock guide. We have changed our front wheels to aluminum and I think Zero grips, but I think the Goodyear fronts may be ok. I only have the tiniest ballast (little finger nail size) near the guide.
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Detailing the interior of the Thunderslot Lola T70
I detailed the interior of the Thunderslot Lola T70 Spyder white kit. The back panel of the interior should be body color, so I masked the interior and painted it with the same DupliColor paint as the body. Then I painted the rest of the interior with Model Master Non-buffing Aluminum Metalizer. The restored Gurney car was dual black seat inserts but most of the cars in period only had a driver’s seat and the other side was left bare aluminum. I painted the driver’s side flat black. The filler covers on the top of the side fuel tanks are just blobs on the vacuum interior, so I cut some .002″ Stainless sheet to the oval shape, dimpling around the edges to simulate the bolts, and using a hole punch in the middle where the filler cap is. The stainless was a little too shiny so I brushed a coat of flat clear on top and then glued the covers in place. The “dash” cross member is painted in some of the Lolas; in others it is left in aluminum, so I painted it with the metalizer. I painted the instrument panel flat black, then used a #11 blade to scrape the paint off of the instrument bezels and the numeral bumps inside. I topped it off with some red detail paint and a drop of canopy glue for the dial lenses. After painting the driver figure, I decided to make some seat belts. I put a length of blue masking tape on a piece of glass, cut it into narrow strips, and blackened it with a Sharpie. I cut small pieces of the stainless sheet and bent it around the tape, and putting a drop of black in the middle with a Sharpie. The strips are glued to the back side of the bottom of the driver’s torso, run up over the chest, and into holes in the back panel of the interior. None of the roll bars in the kit were correct for the #21 car, so I used a bent paper clip. Finally, I added some wiring to the front of the instrument panel, using some wire from an old wired “mouse”.
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RULES CHANGE: THE THUNDERSLOT SERIES WILL BE RUN AT 12 VOLTS
After the RevoSlot race today we tested the Thunderslot cars with multiple drivers at both 11 volts and 12 volts. The cars were stable and driveable at 12 volts and the decision was made to run the series at 12 volts.
I was able to run a lap of 3.740 seconds at twelve volts in my #21 spyder. I took the chassis out of that car and put it in my coupe body and ran a lap of 3.744 seconds. It was slightly more difficult to run regular laps as fast in the coupe. Regular laps were 2 to 4 hundredths slower in the coupe. Try to measure .04 seconds with a stopwatch! David ran a lap of 3.798 seconds but had not yet added weight to the front.
My chassis has the original, treaded front tires which had been trued on the original plastic wheels, with tread still visible. The optional, slick rear tires had been trued on the original rear wheels. I adjusted the front axle height, installed grub screws on the edges of the chassis to adjust chassis to body clearance, and added a small weight between the front axle and the guide post. With the testing, it appears the spyder and coupe were very close in time. A little tweaking of the chassis to the coupe body may have helped. The coupe body is slightly wider at the rear, which would allow a rear track 1 or 2 mm wider. Driver skill should make more of a difference than choosing between the coupe and spyder. Speeds on the various cars running were close.
Expectations are that this will be a fun series to run. If you have not purchased your car yet, there is still time!
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Russell,
I noticed on Thunderslot’s home page that they are running a spec series with rules very similar to ours. The one thing of note was the following:
8) is allowed the shimming of the front columns of the coach of the Lola T 70 CAN AM (Spyder) with spacers / shims up to a maximum of 1.5 mm.
Has anyone noticed anything about the spyder where it needs a 1.5mm shim under the front body mounts?
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For those of you selecting a custom livery for your Lola:
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Marty
I have not noticed an issue with tire rub with the original wheels and tires. It could be possible that the Slot.it tires and wheels are wider and might rub. The chassis to body spacing can be adjusted with the outer front grub screws, pushing the body upward from the chassis. I would like to check further to investigate this, but my initial feeling is that spacers would be allowed, but unnecessary, on the front posts.
The coupe track can be widened 2mm from the spyder track. As the coupe is ever so slightly slower than the spyder, this could be an equalizer. If it gains too much advantage, the maximum track width could be specified but my initial inclination is not to spec it. I will test this also.
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Russell,
I did some digging last night and discovered that the reason for the 1.5mm spacers under the front body posts was due to how close to the track the small front spoiler is. This is not an issue with our track but apparently is an issue with plastic tracks where the track can come in contact with the spoiler. We should not have any issues at all with the spoilers and should not have to install any spacers under the front body posts.
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I did some testing today with three Thunderslot chassis in both the spyder and coupe bodies. All three chassis had trued original front tires on stock plastic wheels. One chassis had trued original treaded rears, the other two had trued Thunderslot slicks. One of the latter chassis had a small weight in the nose, the other two had no weight added. I made two runs of 10-15 laps with each chassis in the spyder, the coupe, and the coupe with the rear track widened about 2mm to fit the wider coupe body. I recorded fastest lap and median lap in each run.
The first chassis with the trued, treaded rear tires was not optimized and there was some tire chatter. This was the slowest chassis with the least amount of track time. The median times and best times between the spyder and the coupe were virtually identical. After widening the rear track, both the median and fastest time improved about .1 sec.
In chassis number two, the times were just about the same in all runs and variations. There were slight time variations between runs with the same setup, but all the differences were so small as to be considered testing error. There was little difference if the rear track was widened.
In the fastest chassis, with the nose weight and the most practice laps, the spyder’s fast lap and median lap were both about .1 sec. faster than the coupe. After widening the rear track, the coupe narrowed the times to about .05 sec. behind the spyder.
These tests were done by just swapping the chassis, setting the mounting screws to about the same amount of body float. No tweaking was tried to optimize setup.
My conclusion from this is that the cars are close enough as is, especially if the coupe runs with wider rear track, so I stand by the rules as written. When new cars come out, they will need to be checked against existing cars.
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I was working on a new Thunderslot spyder car last night and noticed an issue with the motor pod. I reached out to the good folks at Slot Car Corner about it and they told me they have seen a couple of issues like this. You may want to check your car and make sure the motor pod is correct. The issue is with the moulding of the bushing holders. The one on the left side of the car was angled out and not in alignment with the other side. This caused a lot of friction and the rear wheels would not turn freely. See the images. Something worth checking out on your cars.
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BUSHING MOUNTS:
Looks like a molding issue or heat somewhere in the storage/shipping process before assembly. As you were remarking yesterday the QA/testing certainly sucked and the car should have never been packaged!
p.s. the bushings appear to have sleeve pressed into the Oilite main bushing- a pseudo ball bearing effect. They also need to be firmly held in the Pod, with the spacers and spur – does not appear to be enough room for a spacer – except maybe inside on the right/non-drive side. -
SPYDER FRONT CLEARANCES
— On my Spyder, the spoiler hits the track in two spots- the climb out of the esses (mild power loss is noticeable) and in the Green hairpin/button where it will porpoise out. I added 1.5mm nylon spacers under the body posts, 1.5g over the guide, and slightly sanded the spoiler. Braking spot also has an effect in the Green hairpin, a very late brake spot (last section of the fence) results in power-up at the actual turn-which pops the guide out. A slightly earlier brake spot (end of tree) results in earlier power up and less chance of porpoise.
— Front wheels/tires – a Slot.It 14.5×8 alloy hub with Slot.It NoGrips works better than the stock wheels/tires.
TYRES
Replacement slick rear tires-these seem to be softer than Shore-30, maybe 25-7? Like the soft NSR tires they crack easy with ever-so-slightly ‘too much’ tire glue (even with rubberized slow drying glue …) Honestly I prefer the OEM treaded 30s with the tread trued off.
FLOAT
Fairly tight body float, with most of the float in the pod seems to work; prevents tire rub.
WEIGHT
In addition to the guide weight, my car handles better with 2 tungsten slugs mid-pod.
PERFORMANCE
I have not hit the 3.7s that a few people have hit, but yesterday had many 3.8s and 3.9s were the norm during about 250+ practice laps. !These are my first 3.8s in any car – thanks Russell for sponsoring this series! -
In putting my spyder back together tonight I realized another reason why Thunderslot may have been talking about putting a 1.5mm spacer under the front body posts.
As you can see from the pictures below the front axle mounts come in contact with the body before the chassis makes contact with the front body posts. I’m guessing but I would say that the space is about 1.5mm. The chassis is flexible enough that it will easily bend to mount flush to the body posts but the chassis is then pressing hard against the front axle posts which cancels out the body float. I believe we should allow the 1.5mm spacers under the front body posts to allow the chassis more float. Thoughts?
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Marty, sorry about the issue with the motor pod. I have a spare motor pod if you need it.
As far as the clearance issues, I am fine with racers putting whatever spacers they want on the front body posts, but, as I said it is unnecessary if you use the front outboard grub screws on the chassis. Screwing these inward raises the front of the body above the chassis by 2mm or more and you can adjust it as needed without having to fiddle with spacers.
And Mark, I am not sure what front wheels you are using, but the ones we spec’d were the 15 X 8 (Part #1508215A) wheels. I measure 13.6 mm at the wheel lip and 15.93 mm over the rib.
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Hello everyone
Eddie here, my thunderslot white kit just arrived with missing body mount screws. I need a resource on where to find the right body screws. Can I used fly body screws because I have extras on those. I have not test fit those body screws. I’m debating on the livery on my Lola coupe. I’m leaning towards this from 1968 sebring race.
I’m going to keep my tires stock and trued. I’ll be testing it this Thursday evening then will make necessary rules compliance adjustments. Looking forward to racingAttachments:
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Eddie, I have some spare screws. That may be safer than potentially splitting the body posts from screws with a different pitch or width. I will bring Thurs.
Tuning Action Items:
— Lightly glue rear tires on wheels.
— Carefully true off the treads on the stock/OEM rear tires.
— Optionally- Replace front wheels with Slot.It alloy 15.8×8.2 wheels (W1580-8215A, W15808225A, WH1183, WH1184, WH1210) front tires with Slot.It SIPT15 17x10mm ZeroGrips
— Add 3mm dia grub screws (Kings does Not have them) to the chassis pan to adjust body and skirt height to prevent hitting the track in the hairpin and hillclimb. See Russells earlier posts [11940][11930][11903]
— Add 0.5mm spacer to guide shaft (to prevent pop-out de-slot in corners)
— Adjust axle grub screws to barely fly the front tires 0.5 to 1mm (credit card) over track.
— Experiment with adding 1-3gm weight in nose/guide area (prevent pop-out de-slot)
— These must remain stock: body, chassis, pod, pinion, crown, motor, axles
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MOTOR/GUIDE WIRE PROBLEMS
Heads-up, the motor wires are susceptible to breaking at the eyelet/ferrel. Thunderslot flattens normal size ferrels, then secures them against the pickup-braid with fat grub screws (2.5mm, 3mm?) much like BRM guides. **The flattening creates a sharp edge that cuts the sparse strands in the thin (1mm?) stock wire. Similar to a solder-break or lose eyelet the only symptoms are periodic power loss followed soon by complete lack of response to the controller.SOLUTION-You must replace the wire (since they leave very little slack in the stock wires).
Using a large size ferrel (2 to 2.5mm) will work; and if used the grub screws are not needed and in fact cannot screw in deep enough to stay in the guide.
But if you again use normal/small ferrels, they require flattening so that the grubs can grab enough ‘meat’ in the threads to hold the braid and ferrel in the guide. Obviously this continues the risk of the wires being cut by the ferrel. -
Just as a provision I bough 1 mm diam Thunderslot wire and I was planning to change the original.
I was waiting to ask Russ if I can do that once I show him the wire
I have 1 meter of that thing, if somebody needs and is approved by the race manager please let me know
Please Russel let me know where and when can I show you this wire
And Thanks
PD. TO Russel did you check the clear paint yet???
Regards
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She’s stock plus lead weight up front behind the guide.
She tends to flip or fly off.
I have a stock guide and I do have a famous slot spacer that can fit the post of the guide. I’m not gonna install it.
Tried to fit slot rear tires off the slot it matra, fit well will bring it just case.
Can race the first half tomorrowAttachments:
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I had a great time doing my first race today, even with a wonky car. Tight body screws, tyres need a little more truing. All thd club members are great, welcoming and very very helpful. Its a learning experience and I am looking forward to the next race and growing.
I appreciate it very much!
Thank you y’all -
Eddie-you may want someone to walk through each aspect of your car to determine where the ‘drag’ was that was slowing you down. With minimal tuning your car should be turning 4.1-3.9s easy.
Slot.It tires are Non-Spec – I have some ThunderSlots if you need a pair.
You cannot change the guide, but about 3gm of weight and a 1mm spacer may help prevent the flips and rolls in the tight corners. You may need spacers on the front posts – see previous posts about flexing the front axle carriers when they press against the body.
Other flips and rolls are just you getting use to the braking spots in the corners. -
ANOTHER ‘TIRE’ SERIES
The T/S stock tires wear quickly. I am on my 3rd set. When new and minimally trued (some tread barely visible) the larger diameter resulted in a “taller” (aka. higher) gear ratio and hence faster times (3.8 regular, occasional 3.7s) from the longer roll-out.Now, my chassis is hugging the track, obvious by the scruff marks on the motor-can. Handling is great b/c of the higher magnetic-downforce (and lower CG), but I can barely creep into the upper 3.8s 🙁
Looks like for this weekend I need to true up some new shoes! -
Thanks Shawn! I followed the tuning advice you gave to John last Sat about keeping the front tires close to the track and hence keeping the CG of the rear relatively ‘down’ to prevent rolls & fishtails. By tuning my guide height and “flying” height I got back more consistent 3.8s that seemed to grow to 3.9s as rear tire wear increased – and yet I am still Not porpoising out in the green hairpin.
Again – Thanks! -
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