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I am posting this to the club to discuss an opportunity we have to participate in our next proxy race with the Houston Scale Auto Racing club. They are fans of our current Thunderslot Proxy race series and reached out to see if we would be interested in doing another proxy race with them.
In our September club meeting we discussed making the clubs upcoming Q4 series a proxy and the current proxy racers and marshals supported the decision and agreed to continue in their current roles so doing this proxy series with another club is not far outside the realm of what we were already planning on doing.
The Houston club agreed with all the rules we currently use for our proxy which meant all we had left to do was to figure out what car would work best for everyone. The Slot It McLaren was mentioned but none of the Houston members had one. The limited availability combined with the limited liveries make this a weak choice so we looked at other options. We know we wanted to run a Slot It car as they would be the easiest for members to tune. We wanted to pick a current model that was readily available. We wanted to pick a car that had multiple liveries. All of these requirements led us to select the Slot It’s DTM cars. This has the much added benefit of allowing us to get Dave Kennedy and Mauricio the owner of Slot It to help promote the series and provide the club with some fantastic publicity and maybe some new members.
The big commitment for our members is in the purchase and tuning a new car. Being a Slot It the design and construction of the car is familiar to all of us and understanding how to set it up should be easier for most everyone. Some members have already purchased one knowing it was planned to be the clubs Q4 race this year. I know that I have one, Ary has one, Randy has one and Mark has one. The cars are readily available from multiple slot car retailers as well as eBay for $50 to $60. The rules have a limited number of things you can do to the car so the expense of any additional parts should be minimal. It should not be too difficult for members to get a car and set it up. I would be willing to do the tuning work if a member wants to purchase a car and the parts. Before buying a car please view the clubs forum on the DTM series for notes on what Alfa cars to stay away from.
The first race would be held October 24th. This gives us slightly less than a month to get a car ready. The timing is not perfect but there’s not too much work to be done on these cars.
I would like to see all the club’s members participate in what stands to be a great promotion event for the club. Attached are the proxy race rules as well as the rules for the cars. We will be discussing this at next club meeting on Saturday the 3rd. I will also have this event posted to the clubs forum. Please post any questions about the series to this forum for all to view.
FAQ’s
Where do the races take place?
The cars from our club and the Houston club would be raced at our track by our proxy racers and then be sent off to Houston where they would be raced by the Houston club.
What does it cost?
The same race fee as it would normally be – $5 for premium members and $10 for basic members.
What cars will be used?
We are going to use the Slot It DTM cars for this proxy series. Why these? In working to get Slot It involved we needed to run a car that is current and readily available from multiple There is some great information on the clubs 2020 Series Discussion on the club’s forum on our website.
Will there be awards?
Yes. Plaques will be awarded for this series just like they are for our other series.
How do I set up my car for the Houston track?
One of the big parts of running a proxy race is not getting an opportunity to run all the tracks the races are held on. The goal of setting up a proxy car is to get one to perform as smooth and neutral as possible. We will get a list of popular set up tips from the Houston club so we will at least have some idea of how to get your car set up properly.
Why do this?
I like to think the reason to do any slot car racing is to have fun. No top of that we are doing it to build some exposure for the club. See the FAQ below for more information.
What is the benefit to the club?
Exposure. We have been talking about how to attract more members and the need for more exposure to introduce the club to more people while showing the type of professional organization we run. This proxy race will be promoted by both clubs as well as Dave Kennedy from slot car distributor Great Traditions and Slot It. This type of press/publicity is not easy to come by and could help the club.
What rules will we use?
We will use a slightly modified version of the rules that are published on the clubs website – Q4, 2020 race series. I will post the rules as soon as we decide to move forward with the proxy series.
How do you run a proxy race?
For anyone that has watched the clubs Thunderslot Proxy race series it is just like that with the exception of sending our cars off for three rounds of the series that will take place in Houston. There are specific rules to running a proxy that I will post once we decide to move forward.
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OPEL DTM – Axle Height Screw – chassis thread Stipping
by John B/Lotus JR
Subject: DTM Opel Calibra issueI have an early Slot.IT Opel Calibra that has run once or twice at HQ. Checked it over 9/26 in prep for the upcoming DTM Proxy race with Houston HSARC. The axle height adjustment grub/allen/set-screw stripped the plastic threads in the chassis. It was first noticed on my left side upright, then the right upright also stripped, with very little effort. The plastic appears to be very thin, as compared to another Slot.IT chassis such as for a Group-C car.
FIX: 1) First, it’s critical to set axle ride-height with the lower screws. 2) then I filled both holes with MaxiCure glue that I also use to glue tires to rims. I then quickly inserted the screws; let them set up for a few minutes and they appear to hold.[attachment file=”DTM Open Axle Screw Thread Stripping.jpg”]
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HOUSTON TRACK To see the track, club room and some members:
houstonscaleautoracing com
facebook /groups/ HSARClub
Google has images with a simple search for scale-auto-racing-houston
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For handling setup, notice they have longer straights and some 90-degree corners as compared to the ASCC track. A green/24z crown may be useful, esp. since we are running at 12v it may the best compromise to take advantage of the longer straights and yet be manageable in the corners (plus have good handling on our/the ASCC track).
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We need details on their track, esp. if it is plastic (i.e the one with the SCX skirt) and what brand (indicating the grip and what tires we should run (30s or 22s)). It would also help to know braid depth if routed, or more significantly rail height if it’s plastic (it would affect axle height adjustment). Hopefully it is just be their old routed track painted black (used to be gray/green when it was in the back of PA Watson’s Katy Slots in 2014)???Note: The material is hard to tell from the pictures (the obviously routed black track -with the two Nascars- appears to be one they are/were re-building).
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To help with proper set up for the proxy I have provided the Houston club with the popular set up’s we run with Slot It – F30’s, CH-07 wood guide, zero grip tires on the front, 9t pinions and 23t-25t crowns at the 12v the series will run at. I also provided they with a minimum chassis clearance measurement and the recess depth of the braid on our track.
They will be providing us with similar information. What I already know – their track is four lanes, routed wood with magnetic braid. The track layout is very different from ours in that it was based on a plastic Scalextric track they used to run on. They just copied the design and routed it. As a result their lane spacing is 3 1/16″ just like Scalextric. Ours is 4″, a little wider than Carrera.
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Opel Chassis Issues
John, I have had those same issues with a couple of Group C chassis. I don’t know why its a problem on some and not others. I have an Open and there is not a lot of material on the front axle chassis loop. Good luck with it. Chassis are readily available. I even saw a guy on eBay selling a complete chassis less body for $27. Not a bad deal for the full set up. Could be a good test car chassis.
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CIRCUIT BOARD ON BLACK END BELL 21k DTM MOTOR
To remove the “shunt capacitor” – use a very sharp, small set of dykes/nippers to cut the circuit board on One side, Away from the end bell. If you cut too close to the end-bell and you may clip the Solder Tab coming out of the motor (connected to the brush inside). Don’t cut the other side yet (doing so may flex the circuit and hence the solder tab.)
Now, de-solder the piece of the circuit connected to the solder-tab, carefully pull off the circuit board piece. Now desolder the circuit piece on the other side and pull away from the tab.
ALTERNATIVE: using a small set of dykes, you may be able to cut off the capacitor ‘block’ in the middle of the board – problem solved in seconds!
NOTE: Some people like to take off the capacitors, but they should not really affect analog performance. They are “shunts” that short-circuit radio frequencies picked up across the motor’s solder-tabs (which can act as an antenna). They are mainly effective to prevent any problems with digital systems (with retroactively installed chips for Carerra or Scaley tracks).Attachments:
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A suggestion for proxy rules.
This should make the race manager’s job much easier. Have entrants write their name (or handle) on the bottom of the car. With a bunch of unfamiliar cars, and new names, both in Austin and in Houston, It will be a great help keeping things straight. This has been a standard rule in all proxies I have entered. Besides there’s much more room on the bottom of a DTM than there is a 60s F1 car 🙂
[attachment file=”Naming.jpg”]
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Randy,
The rules for the Proxy race state we will be running the series at 12 volts. The rules for our 2020 Q4 series listed 14 volts but we are not using those rules. We are using the rules for the Proxy. Thanks for asking the question.
Front tires – you can use the 17″ or 19″ diameter versions of the zero grip tires. It depends on how you are setting up your car. You might find the 19″ version easier to set the car up with.
On a side note – are you up for selling your Bosch Alfa? I would like to purchase it if you are up for selling it. Let me know what you want. It would be great if you could leave the car at headquarters and I will come by with some cash to leave for you.
Marty
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M2 Tap for “chasing” the threads for the Upper Axle Height Setting grub Screw
https://www.micromark.com/Metric-Tap
M2.0x40 #82321T $12.**Normally, you would also need a Clearance drill bit, (such as creating a new hole for a fixing screw on a Wheel; yet based on experience, it’s easier and faster just to buy a new rim!)
For the Slot.IT Uprights a Clearance Bit is Not Necessary.
Likewise – a pin vise, or a few wraps of tape, is all you need as a holder/driver for tapping plastic. -
M2 Tap for “chasing” the threads for the Upper Axle Height Setting grub Screw
micromark.com/Metric-Tap
M2.0x40 #82321T $12.**Normally, you would also need a Clearance drill bit, (such as creating a new hole for a fixing screw on a Wheel; yet based on experience, it’s easier and faster just to buy a new rim!)
For the Slot.IT Uprights a Clearance Bit is Not Necessary.
Likewise – a pin vise, or a few wraps of tape, is all you need as a holder/driver for tapping plastic. -
[quote=15433]M2 Tap for “chasing” the threads for the Upper Axle Height Setting grub Screw
micromark.com/Metric-Tap
M2.0x40 #82321T $12.**Normally, you would also need a Clearance drill bit, (such as creating a new hole for a fixing screw on a Wheel; yet based on experience, it’s easier and faster just to buy a new rim!)
For the Slot.IT Uprights a Clearance Bit is Not Necessary.
Likewise – a pin vise, or a few wraps of tape, is all you need as a holder/driver for tapping plastic.[/quote]
Yes, a pin-vise works well. The traditional T-handle is overkill, and more difficult house without wobbling.
[attachment file=”Tap.jpg”]
The plastic pin on the axle insert (the part we all remove) is 1.85mm. Under a mm, so running an M2 grub screw into that hole is most likely causing outward forces on the hole. Asking for a break in those delicate upper loops. If nothing else, the tap and pin vise give you a nice, true ‘start’
[attachment file=”Upper Loop.jpg”]
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[quote=15437]and more difficult TO USE without wobbling. Forum would not allow me to edit post. [/quote]
Unfortunately the current release of WordPress is finicky and inconsistent; esp. when adding either (a) an image or (b) a URL. (I usually remove the https and www from URLs in order to add them to a post.)
Also – sometimes the browser affects what you can see. I have stopped using Internet Explorer since it is so wonky with the ASCC site.
If you have additional issues contact Brian to work out the problem.
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I had mentioned some wood-guide clearance issues with ehe Marc 190. The wood guide is much squarer than the stock guide. Marty gave me the go ahead to remove m=some material did not take much. An X-acto on the guide cutout, and a dremel on the backside of the front valence, and we are free for running. The main culprits were two tiny vertical bits behind the license plate. I used the small Dremel sanding drum, the regular one would not fit between the mounting post and the backside of the front valence.
[attachment file=”Guides-small.jpg”]
[attachment file=”Guide in chassis-small.jpg”]
It is a tight fit
[attachment file=”Body fit-small.jpg”]
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The rear wing cannot be attached to the body – unless you are running a Mercedes and it comes that way. You can use the tried and true trick of putting ShoeGoo under the wing and on the struts. I would allow some reinforcement of the struts just as long as they are on minimal and on the struts.
Marty
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We have different rear wing rules for different race series; some only require the wing to be on at the start of the heat, and some race series require that wings have to be re-installed during the green flag heat. Also some race series allow taping the ends of the wings, or reinforcing the wings, and some do not. My comments before were just a statement of fact. Having to replace a wing during a race (unless it is a snap-in wing) means that heat and that race are done for the car. Even if the supplies were ready and available at the driver’s station, it would take a minute or more, and would probably not last. I would rather that a quickie, futile attempt to repair a wing, which might complicate a later, at-home repair, not be attempted.
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Are we on track for Round-1 this weekend? From some testing that Randy Dave and I did this weekend I request an additional week to tune.
What are the details about Round-1?
When will the cars be received from Houston?
How many cars are coming from Houston?
What specs are they using regarding gears et al?
Are they going to be tested (by Marty?) before the Round-1?
Will drivers have any time for test laps with each car?
Who are the drivers? I volunteer as either driver or Marshal.
When is Ary truly coming back? Does he have to quaratine since he is returning from Brazil?
When will tech inspection be for the ASCC cars? With some of the specs (wing reinforcement for one) will we have 5 minutes to fix it, or a more pragmatic time? Or could we be DQ on day one and have no time to correct the infraction?
So should we tune our cars for the HSARC track and race as configured on the ASCC track? or do we tune gears etc for the ASCC track and later modify before rounds start in Houston?
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What is the official Guide – CH10 or the normal CH07? is a CHO7 illegal? Seems CH07 is recommended by the documented rules. They are designed for Carerra slot depths, is the HSARC track shallow – less than 7mm deep?
Documented wings specs are: “parts damaged … Wings mandatory at the start of a heat... White kits allowed – but must be …” Or have the rules been updated somewhere with other details? -
TEST-N-TUNE NOTES OCT 18 2020
We are experiencing a problem with fine dust on track, if (a) we leave the doors open, (b) we do Not cover the track between tests and races. Please cover track when you leave : )Dave hit a 3.9; using a 9/23 (pink) gear ratio, F22 tires. Running an Opel.
Randy hit 4.4s with the Merc F30s 9/28? (he had stock gears, not sure if he changed them later)
I hit 4.4s; Running an Opel. F30s. Tried both 9/23(pink) and 9/24(green) ratios (both seemed Too Hot, neither improved the times!)
NOTE to have a calculated rear-wheel RPM of 7800, the ratio is 2.69, hence a 9/24(grn). For 7500 2.78, 9/25(orange)
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— The cars are extremely noisy, I guess from the body rattling against the pan (with loose body screws for float).
— The best spot for adding any weight, IF needed, is not clear. The Opel’s don’t seem to really need any additional weight. I tried the 2.5g slug in the front pod slot, rear pod slot, and without the slug with little obvious change.
— Randy’s Merc handled better with a few grams behind the guide.
— The black end-bell 21k motor *seems lethargic (in response), even at 12v.
— In the Esses the rear can swing around in the 2nd curve (both Merc and Opel)
— The use of the Spherical bushings in the front uprights is “iffy”. They seem to stick in the channels making adjusting the axle height very tedious. Also, because they are designed for the rear drive axle, (hence designed to be broke in from an active axle) they seem overly tight for a passive front axle. **I obtained smoother action (less friction) and easier axle height adjustment using our typical practice of just using long grub screws, no bushings.**I also obtained smoother action using Aluminum front wheels; which also adds a useful gram or 2 on the guide.
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I replaced the MB stock wiring because it was heavy and blocking the guide movement. I replaced the wire with thin flexible wire, much shorter and still had trouble with the wire hanging up on something. My flashlight showed the wire was grabbing the 2 brake ducts that poked a good 6 mm into the wire travel area. The ducts are gone now. I also replaced the stock stiff contact braids.
I have two tungsten weights, one in front of the motor in the clip place and one shoegooed on the front of the chassis. Does not stop the perpendicular pinch on the last S turn yellow lane. The wires are not holding the guide perpendicular any more, but the dust is letting the guide rotate all of the way as the back end slides wide. I may remove each weight and both weights since David says the Opel is not using any, and just drive like I did in the snow.
I tried the pink gear and it is real squirrely. Not smooth driving, but David’s is. going to back off a tooth or two. Good luck driving it. I am sorry some one else has to drive it.
I am happy to run an MB on which I learned to drive stick shift in 1964. My Dad was quite brave to let me learn on the 1961 220S he brought home from Germany after his tire company assignment. Then the Vienna taxi company had them and my Dad bought a diesel in the 2000’s.
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All,
Here are answers to some of your questions.
What are the details about Round-1? – I need more specifics to answer the question. The first race of the DTM proxy series will be this Saturday the 24th at 1pm at the clubs headquarters.
When will the cars be received from Houston? – I received them yesterday. I will be running them through tech today the 22nd.
How many cars are coming from Houston? – 5
What specs are they using regarding gears et al? – I don’t fully understand what you are asking. They are using Slot It in-line crown gears as per the rules. I don’t know what size they are using. I have told them we run 23t – 25t crown gears when we run Slot It cars on our track.Are they going to be tested (by Marty?) before the Round-1? – Yes, on my home track or at the headquarters if I have the time.
Will drivers have any time for test laps with each car? – A very limited amount of time with each car. That is the way a proxy works. Drivers are not allowed to adjust a car to suit their driving style. You drive the car you get.
Who are the drivers? I volunteer as either driver or Marshal. – As per earlier emails it will be Mark L., John B. and David C. with Marty and Steve working as marshals.
When is Ary truly coming back? – He is back
Does he have to quaratine since he is returning from Brazil? – Yes. He will not run the first round of the series.
When will tech inspection be for the ASCC cars? – Saturday, prior to the race. Starting at noon.
With some of the specs (wing reinforcement for one) will we have 5 minutes to fix it, or a more pragmatic time? Or could we be DQ on day one and have no time to correct the infraction? – I don’t understand what you are asking. The wing must be on the car for the start of the heat. You can reinforce the bottom of the wing but you cannot attach it to the side of the car.
So should we tune our cars for the HSARC track and race as configured on the ASCC track? or do we tune gears etc for the ASCC track and later modify before rounds start in Houston? – You can do whatever you want. Since we are allowing the cars to be reset for the Houston track I would set up my car for our track and then reconfigure it for the Houston track before we send the cars to them.
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What is the official Guide – CH10 or the normal CH07? is a CHO7 illegal? Seems CH07 is recommended by the documented rules. They are designed for Carerra slot depths, is the HSARC track shallow – less than 7mm deep? – You can run any Slot It guide you want. I would suggest a CH07 for our track and the CH10 or stock guide for the Houston track.Documented wings specs are: “parts damaged … Wings mandatory at the start of a heat... White kits allowed – but must be …” Or have the rules been updated somewhere with other details? – What is your question? Wings must be on the car when it starts the heat.
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More Answers:
Will the cars be in Parc Ferme for the duration of the series; that is, the owners will not be allowed to work on them between races? – Cars will be in Parc Ferme during the race but can be worked on between the races, not the heats of a race. Only the series manager is allowed to work on the cars during a race.
Wings:
If a wing falls off during a heat it must be put back on the car before starting the next heat. This can be done using tape.
Clear enough. If my wing breaks during a race, please withdraw the car immediately. Make no attempt to repair/replace the wing. A broken wing means that race is over for the car. – Russell, your wing can be reattached to the car using tape before the next heat. There is no need to withdraw a car for something like this. I am attaching an example of a wing attachment that was done in another proxy with the car that finished second in the series. Not beautiful but required by the rules.
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Marty
Clarification, please. The wing rule you refer to above is not the DTM race rule. The DTM rule states that wings must be replaced during green flag running. The rule you state is only that the wing has to be on at the START of a heat. Which is it? We have race rules written both ways.
Also, you previously stated that the ends of the wings cannot be reinforced by tape. So, they can’t be reinforced by tape, but tape can be used to re-install it?
Russell
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Russell – You are correct, there are two sets of rules. One was for the ASCC’s Q4 Slot It DTM series that we are not running and the other is for the Slot It DTM Proxy that we are running. The DTM proxy rules are attached to the first post on this thread and have not changed since they were posted. Those are the rules for this Proxy series.
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DTM RULES
DTM-Proxy-Car-Rules_Oct 2020 -
DTM TUNING CHALLENGES
1. BODY FLOAT – a very light/little looseness of the body screws prevents several handling issues. Float needs to come from the MotorPod. Lap Times instantly decreased by 0.2sec (4.4 > 4.2s)2. GEAR RATIO-Orange(25) seems to be the best compromise for my Opel. Unless you are a “Mush” button user, or have a light “finger”, Green(24) can jack-rabbit in the climbs out of the esses and coming out of the “button” turn (a.k.a. T6, T7) Blue(26) is controllable but Slow.
3. WEIGHT DISTRO ****
With an Orange(25) crown, a single 2.5 Slot.IT tungsten “slug” in the Front Pod slot seems to balance the Opel. A 2nd “slug” in the Rear Pod slot (e.g. NOT recommended) makes the car easier to handle in the corners, but encourages the Fishtail coming out of the Esses (a.k.a. T3), and at the button (T6, 7). Randy reported better handling of his Merc with a few grams behind the Guide; my Opel (with alloy front wheels) does not seem to need that.
** Dave reported that two small lead disks (1/2 to 1gram each) on the outer edge of the pan, appx 3/8in ahead (8-9mm) of the Front Pod slot, improved his handling. Make sure they are 1-2mm away from the edge of the chassis so that the body skirt is not hitting them.4. TIRES
For the ASCC Rounds, F30s (SIPT28) seem to have plenty of grip, but chatter in the corners, even if well-trued and radiused (probably the rear weight trying to drift).
Some people are experimenting with F22 (SIPT1207F22 D19.7-21 x W10mm; NOT SIPT29 D20.8 x W12.4) and N22 tires (SIPT1171N22 D19.7-21 x W10mm)
For the HSARC Rounds, Marty says they recommend the OEM tires, have a C1 compound (the catalog says they are designed for Scalextric and Ninco abrasive tracks) The stock tires may be SIPT1228-C1 (D17.8 x W9.5), or SIPT1159-C1 (D17.2 x W9.5) [in case you need to chase them down in your spares box!]5. GUIDE
As usual, replace the M2 grubs with eyelets for the motor wires.
For the ASCC Rounds, Marty approved our typical SICH07 “deep-wood-guide” which has a 7mm deep blade, with an 27mm Length.
For the HSARC Rounds, Marty says they recommend either the OEM snap in guide, or the screw SICH10 “racing-guide” which has a 21mm Length. (I assume the 27 mm blade of the SICH07 may bind in the sharp 90-deg corners they have?) -
Mark
Thanks for the info. It is very helpful, especially with new cars. So David put some weight outboard on the chassis; now that would increase the roll resistance at that point, like a heavier anti-roll bar. It’s the difference when you are spinning in an office chair whether you extend your arms and legs or pull into a ball. And so you could further tune the suspension by changing the roll resistance front to rear…..
Russell
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TIRES FOR THE HSARC TRACK
C1 compound tires are standard OEM on many Slot.ITs
Using a magnifying glass on the branded (e.g goodyear, firestone, pirelli …) OEM tires you will find many of them are PT1159s, which has a C1 compound, and close to the same size as the PT28(F30)s. PT1159C1 9.5 W x 17.2 D (should be tight even without glue)
as compared to the PT28(F30) 10 W x 19.5 DMost of us have these C1 spare tires rattling around in our pitboxes, unless we trashed them or used them on static models. These can be glued with CA, rubberized black CA, or ShoeGoo.
OTHER C1 TIRES THAT MAY BE IN YOUR SPARES:
PT1228C1 9.5 W x 17.8 D
PT35 (1140) 9.5 W x 19.8 D
PT34 (1145) 10 W x 18.5 D
PT2121C1 (1121 = 10 x 19.5) same size as F30SLOT.IT NUMBERING SCHEMES: Slot.IT part numbers often, but not always, are the 4-digit Drawing aka Mold number. Some part numbers seem to have no meaning (e.g. PT28, PT34) while others include the compound (e.g. PT1228C1, PT1172N22).
The “C” in the compound name is for Carerra; Tires with a “P” in their compound name (P1, P6) the “P” is for plastic (or Perspex) as in Scalextric, Ninco, Carrera tracks. The ones with a “N” are usually 22-shore with a hybrid or full Urethane base, “N” = Ninco since the tires are made to dig into the gritty Ninco track surface. N22 tires are basically equal to NSR Ultragrips; leave lots of grey dust.
Slot.IT does not either (a) have an explicit documented reference of the compound Prefix meanings, it is derived from the recommended surfaces they match the tires to.
(b) consistency in including the Mold-number (e.g. the 11xx or 12xx etc.) or compound number on the tire.
For example, tires with a “P6” compound only have the Slot.IT name on the Sidewall, the only clue they are P6s is they are near the same size as a PT28(F30), they are rubber-based and almost as soft as F30s. There are 3 P6 tires, PT24, PT25, PT1207P6.
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GUIDE FOR THE HSARC TRACK
HSARC recommended either the OEM snap-in guide, or the screw SICH10 “racing-guide”.The original guide has a 21mm blade Length (6.5mm depth, 1.25 thickness). A CH10 seems to be 18mm in length (no ‘battleship’ leading edge). A CH85 is a screw version of the original guide, with a small 3mm leading edge (for 21mm)
I was wrong in a previous post – the ‘deep-wood/routed’ guide SICH07 has a 24mm blade Length
not 27mm from the previous post. Depth is 8mm vs the OEM blades with 6.5mm depth.OEM/CH85 Depth 6.50 Length 21mm Thick 1.25
CH10 Depth 6.50 Length 18mm Thick 1.25
CH07 Depth 8.00 Length 24mm Thick 2.00
Scaleauto Red Depth 8.00 Length 23mm Thick 1.75
1-24 Depth 8.00 Length 23mm Thick 2.00 //parma, slick-7, koford etc
Carrera Depth 7.75 Length 26mm Thick 1.75
Scalextric Depth 6.75 Length 18mm Thick 1.25 -
Are we going to have a time after our last Austin race before the cars are shipped to Houston to change tires and guides. Is there really a need to change F30 tires? I suppose I’ll put the OEM snap in guide back in unless I find a screw in guide in my box. When is the date for shipping cars to Houston?
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Randy and All – All of us will have time to work on our cars before they get shipped to Scale Auto Racing. Everyone can pick up their cars starting Saturday after the race. I need them back at Headquarters by the 30th so I can get them boxed up and shipped off. I will send out an email to all the participants to make sure everyone understands this.
Don’t hesitate to reach out to me if you have any questions on setting up your car for the HSCRC track.
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Here are some comments from John on getting his Opel set up for the Houston track with C1 tires and the stock guide:
“As a side note, I installed a stock type guide and 1167 C1s which were take offs close in size to F30s onto the Opel. Ran a few laps and the C1s were not near as bad as I thought. Include the F30s in the box just in case. Gave Mark my car to send to Houston. If I mailed it from home it would take 2 days longer to get either to Austin or Houston.”
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I’m curious to know if anyone has insight into why Flippy the Red Spoiler MB was so prone to over turn. I took out all of the weight before the series because testing showed me much slower and one of our rapid members did not have any weight added (Opel). I am going to get the stock tires that I glued and trued back on the car and put the stock guide back in. Should I add a tungsten weight front, or middle, or rear (seemed very bad in testing). or should I put some lead tape on the middle outside chassis? I am not changing from the green gear. I also noticed the BFGoodrich decal on the driver side was missing and that should not have upset the balance. Thanks for the BFG Radial plug Marty. 🙂
When and where are the cars being gathered for shipment to Houston?
Thanks to all of the drivers who did a heroic service to us in the proxy race here.
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UPDATE – The HSARC is now broadcasting their races live on YouTube! They broadcast their first races this past weekend. It’s worth watching the races to get a sense of what their track looks like and how the cars run on it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xh-zr43UVh4&t=45s.
They will be broadcasting the DTM Proxy races. They will be installing more cameras for more views in the very near future.
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UPDATE – The HSARC is now broadcasting their races live on YouTube! They broadcast their first races this past weekend. It’s worth watching the races to get a sense of what their track looks like and how the cars run on it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xh-zr43UVh4&t=45s.
They will be broadcasting the DTM Proxy races. They will be installing more cameras for more views in the very near future.
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