Reply To: Motor Break In Tool

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Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
Participant

    The best explanation is in Ary’s Motor Break-In How To Video

    • As compared to 1/24 open-can motors, the commutator brushes on a FC130 short-can motor cannot be easily contoured/faced with a   Hone   and/or   Turtle.
      You would have to remove the wishbone from the plastic end-bell, contour/face,
      then re-install – with each step Adding risk to damaging a fragile assembly.
    • So – using the MMBIR the comm. on the armature becomes your “hone”.
    • “brushes” <> Pickup Braids in the context of the MMBIR
      (altho it is common to call braids as “brushes” in the context of Carrera and other RTR 1/32 vendors)

    "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
    Sammy with Montrose

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    BarkingSpyder

    At 4-years old in Pensacola I repaired my steering linkage on my Ford Pedal-car. Dad later converted this car to a Blue Angel with ailerons and elevators with a working "stick/yoke"; the rudder was controlled by the steering wheel. I like all motorsports - I grew up going to a NASCAR Feeder track with Sportsman and Modified classes, and was lucky to attend drag races in 1970 at Orange County Raceway. My first solder-iron was a Christmas gift at 9yo; I modified T-Jets to be AFX spec before AFX Cars were in local stores. I rebuilt a few tractor & car (SIMCA) engines plus transmissions by 15yo (I still have my ring-compressor and valve spring tool) I am a former mountain and road bike geek & perennial sound engineer. Struggling guitar hobbyist and Amp "tweeker"