Reply To: Slot It DTM Proxy Race

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#15415
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    CIRCUIT BOARD ON BLACK END BELL 21k DTM MOTOR
    To remove the “shunt capacitor” – use a very sharp, small set of dykes/nippers to cut the circuit board on One side, Away from the end bell. If you cut too close to the end-bell and you may clip the Solder Tab coming out of the motor (connected to the brush inside). Don’t cut the other side yet (doing so may flex the circuit and hence the solder tab.)
    Now, de-solder the piece of the circuit connected to the solder-tab, carefully pull off the circuit board piece. Now desolder the circuit piece on the other side and pull away from the tab.
    ALTERNATIVE: using a small set of dykes, you may be able to cut off the capacitor ‘block’ in the middle of the board – problem solved in seconds!
    NOTE:  Some people like to take off the capacitors, but they should not really affect analog performance. They are “shunts” that short-circuit radio frequencies picked up across the motor’s solder-tabs (which can act as an antenna). They are mainly effective to prevent any problems with digital systems (with retroactively installed chips for Carerra or Scaley tracks).

    "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
    Sammy with Montrose

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    BarkingSpyder

    At 4-years old in Pensacola I repaired my steering linkage on my Ford Pedal-car. Dad later converted this car to a Blue Angel with ailerons and elevators with a working "stick/yoke"; the rudder was controlled by the steering wheel. I like all motorsports - I grew up going to a NASCAR Feeder track with Sportsman and Modified classes, and was lucky to attend drag races in 1970 at Orange County Raceway. My first solder-iron was a Christmas gift at 9yo; I modified T-Jets to be AFX spec before AFX Cars were in local stores. I rebuilt a few tractor & car (SIMCA) engines plus transmissions by 15yo (I still have my ring-compressor and valve spring tool) I am a former mountain and road bike geek & perennial sound engineer. Struggling guitar hobbyist and Amp "tweeker"