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Marty reports that the new Elva being produced is a very fast car. There is also no telling what may happen to slot car supplies with the Caronavirus outbreak and it is possible the Elva could be in short supply anyway. Because of that, for right now I am inclined not to allow it in the series this year. The McLaren has seemed to be very similar to the Lolas and several members have them so they will be allowed. That should give us enough variation for this year and give us time to check out the Elva for the future.
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Russell,
Will gearing be open? The stock gearing of 11×32 was used for the past two series and although Thunderslot is now making a 31t and 30t spur they are almost impossible to find. The Thunderslot spur gear has a diameter of 17.5mm where the NSR – using the same axle size – makes spur gears that are 17mm. I have not tried an NSR spur with a Thunderslot or a NSR pinion but that might be the solution to allow open gearing if that is the direction we would like to go.
You can find a bunch of Thunderslot plastic pinions in 12t or 13t but that is a big difference from the stock 11t.
Once again, I wonder if NSR gears would work. Thoughts?
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Update on how to prepare your Thunderslot rear tires. I had an issue with four pairs of Thunderslot tires cracking after I glued them to the rims. I emailed Thunderslot pictures of the tires along with a description of the different glues I used and they responded in less than 24 hours. That is some good customer service. They said that you cannot use any CA glues on their tires. You need to use a silicone glue and not CA on all Thunderslot tires. Now you know. I wish that I knew that before ruining four pairs of tires.
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The shiny Thinderslot tires appear to be some form of Urethane, so like some of the NSR urethane based tires the sidewalls can crack – even with the ‘rubberized’ CA glues (such as those sold for RC tires). Last year I took a clue from Dave and tried ShoeGoo. If you need to glue your T/S tires you can fill the air-gap channel with a bead of ShoeGoo. Bonus – when removing old tires – it takes some persistence but with a really hard tug the Shoegoo comes off very cleanly.
To more fully fill the gap – two 13mm (1/2in inside diameter) faucet O-rings can be used. These are alternatives to the $9 foam-donuts sold by Thunderslot for filling the 14.3mm high gap in the OEM TRMR001AL wheels. The O-Rigs must be trued to match the height of the shoulder ribs – either
14.3mm for the OEM wheels (TRMR001AL) -or- 14.9mm for the Replacement wheels (TRMR002AL). I suggest using an Emory Board for the cutting rather than ruining your rims on a truing grinder-wheel.
#10 O-Ring 1/2in (13mm) inside diameter O-ring (3/32 thick)
#9 O-Ring 7/16in (12mm) inside diameter O-ring (3/32 thick)Permatex Car Window Seal silicone glue works ok for a while, then seems to ‘shed’ from the aluminum.
Urethane glue is available – but apparently only in a 10-oz Caulk-gun size for $20. -
Leave it to C19 to finally get me to buy my own tire truer! It should be here Tuesday and then I can begin getting my car ready for the events, assuming my power supply is able to do the job (it may not have the amps…but we’ll see. Some reports online suggest it will be okay and I won’t need to upgrade).
Not sure if I’ll make the next race entry, but I’m going to give it a shot. The ‘ol ThunderSlot has been packed away since last year’s events, but unlike my Slot.it stuff which I tend to tear down and reuse parts across models, the T-slot is its own creature, so it should be in good shape except for the tires, which I ran to the last lap of use in the previous season.
I envy Marty’s home track now. If I only had the space…<<sigh>>
Cheers!
-Stabn’Steer
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Erick – both the Hudy and PN-Racing truers can work on a 5Amp power supply.
— I have been using this $80, extremely portable power supply for at least 10 months:
e-slotcar.com > power-supplies > gophert-32v-5amp-power-supply-cps-3205ii
— This $60 small desk PS is also useful:
amazon > Dr.meter 30V/5A Variable Linear DC Bench Power SupplyA P/S (with a 5a, 10a or more capability) you previously used for 1/24 cars should also work.
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Without contact and with wheel(s) installed, the free-spin ‘load’ should range from 1.4a to 1.9a. This reference setting should be done with as small a free height as possible (since the tension from the drive belts add their own load). Voltage used is typically 3.0 – 3.5. Higher voltage needed for free-spin ~may be~ a symptom of bearings needing lube. -
Another update on the Thunderslot Rear tires
I have tried both Liquid Nails Silicone Adhesive and Super Glue’s Silicone Adhesive as per instructions from Thunderslot. They said to use a Silicone adhesive on the tires but I found both of these highly ineffective. The glue that seems to work the best is Shoe Goo. Once again the tried and true, pun intended, Shoe Goo works on keeping Thunderslot tires glued to the rims.
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ShoeGoo seems to work best. Has a clean removal also.
Note that the 14.3×10 wheels (THRMR001AL) use a different grub screw 2.5mm
than the 14.9×10 wheels (THRMR002AL) 4-40.Cloverleaf has the spurs and foam rim fillers in stock.
SPURS GE31SWP Blue, GE30SWP Orange $7 (1 per bag)
FOAM RIM RINGS – RMRFM001 $7 (4 per bag)Calculated Rear-wheel RPMS (with No rollout, or tire diameter factored in)
32/11 = 2.90 21500/2.9 = 7414
31/11 = 2.82 = 7624
30/11 = 2.73 = 7875
32/12 = 2.67 = 8052 //extremely hot, wheelies and bunny hops are unpredictableNOTES: The Thunderslot spurs are all 17mm OD and the pinion is 7mm.
Whereas NSR spurs are 17.5, require 6.5mm pinions
Axles ODs for both brands = 2.37mm, vs. 2.38 for Slot.IT and most other 1/32 brandsUseless math tricks:
3/32 = 0.09375 X 25.4 = 2.38125mm
2.37mm / 25.4 = 0.9333 x 32 = 2.9858in [2.99/32] -
My Lola spyder body is so warped (stop the snickering!) that it affects the front wheel heights and warps the chassis if the screws are ‘just tight enough’. Obviously affects the handling esp. in the esses and back straight.
This thing is twisted like a Mobius (or donut twist if you prefer)
Looking at the nose, the left front fender skirt is 2mm off the block/track.
Looking at the rear, the left fender wheel appears 2mm~3mm higher then the driver/right side.I had a white kit for spares (since when we started racing these 3 years ago spares were very rare in the USA, or even at PSR). It’s body is also warped altho not as much (Fr 1mm Rr 0.5mm) as the painted one (Revson can-am). So, new spare body received from Cloverleaf this week … the MF is as warped as the original Revson!
Apparently this is not rare as a few blogs/boards have (not very enouraging) threads on the issue.
hrwforum.com/forum/-1-32-scale/18589-straightening-a-thunderslot-chassis -
Attached is a table of the effective speed on our Thunderslots, as a combination of gear-ratios and tire diameter. This makes it obvious that it pays to measure your tires after a post-race clean-up true. The difference between a tire trued to 19mm and 19.5 is 0.5 MPH true scale and 16mph at 1/32 scale speed. 19.5mm vs 20mm = 0.4mph (13mph); 19-20mm = 0.9mph (29mph) difference. The 20mm size is somewhat of an outlier though, because that’s effectively an untrued virgin tire on a 14.85-rib wheel; so the lower sizes are more significant.
Another factor not covered here is that for the smaller diameter tires your magnetic-downforce should be higher; which is also affected by how loose your motor pod is (hence how close to the track it sinks).
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CORRECTION ON MINUTE DETAILS OF “USELESS MATH TRICKS”
COMPARING THE MICROSCOPIC BUT SIGNIFICANT DIFFERENCE BETWEEN NSR/THUNDERSLOT AND SLOT.IT 3/32IN AXLESSlot.IT Axles
3/32in = 0.09375 X 25.4 = 2.38125mm Axle DiameterNSR/Thunderslot Axles
2.37mm/25.4 = 0.9333 x 32in = 2.9858 [2.99/32 inch]*2.54 is the conversion factor to multiply inches to get metric equal
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