Reply To: 2019 Slot.it Group C

Home Forums Club Races Racing Calendar, Classes & Regulations 2019 Slot.it Group C Reply To: 2019 Slot.it Group C

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Avatar photoBarkingSpyder
Participant

    FOR VIEWERS OF OUR FORUMS – here are common upgrade or spares for Slot.IT Series, esp. Group-C

    SOFT REAR TIRES – SIPT28 > F30 … “normal” Shore-30 rear tires for 15mmD x 10mmW wheels (aka PT28)
    No-Prep – we are a “dry” track
    ZERO GRIP FRONT TIRES – SIPT07 > ZO // 10×18.8 (aka PT07) Nail polish is allowed in some series, prohibited in others. Truing the Zero-grips seems to work better than ‘glazing’. Front tires are flown 0.25 to 1mm off the track as measured on a setup block with a 0.10-15in braid recess.

    ‘WOOD’ GUIDE SICH-07 Routed-track Pickup-Shoe with fixing screw; 7mm Deep vs. OEM 5mm depth (aka CH07)
    Eyelets/cups are used instead of OEM 2mm grubs to fix the motor wires to the pickup braids.

    WHEELS (fit the F30s) // fixed to axle by 2mm Grub screws (uses 0.91~.95mm Allen wrench)
    W17309715A **stock on many cars** – 17.3D x 9.75W mm rear Wheels; solid center nub/nib
    W15810215AF 15.8D x 10.2W mm rear Wheels; double shoulder (open center nub), lightweight
    *F30s fit wheels from 15 to 17mm Dia, 8 to 10mm Width wheels of any brand (common sizes 15.8×8, 16.5×8.2, 15.8×10, 17×8, 17×10) 14d x 11w are only allowed in Formula series.

    CROWN DRIVE GEARS (for In-line pods usually with small-can Mabuchi FA130 aka S-Can motors)
    SIGI23 .. Pink – 23 teeth aka 23z – fastest and hardest to tune
    SIGI24 .. Green – 24z – very fast
    SIGI25 .. Orange – 25z – fast – often a good choice for GP-C and other inline cars
    SIGI26 .. Blue – 26z – faster than the stock OEM Black 27z
    SIGI28 .. Yellow – 28z – slower than OEM black; use for a motor that is “too hot” (~ tached at over 20k RPM at 11 v)

    COMMON SPEC MOTOR
    SI MX-16 – 23k rpm 170g-TQ  FA130 aka S-Can (Short-can) Mabuchi style ‘D’ motor with plastic non-adjustable end-bell.  Smaller in size and less powerful than ‘long-can’  FK-180 ‘boxer’ style motors such as Hawk-7, Falcon, Phoenix, Eagle. These require a low-voltage burn-in (45min – 2 hrs @4-6v) and last 2-3 years as compared to a few months for the 1/24 motors.  Considered ‘sealed’ – magnets, brushes, armatures, bushings are not allowed to be upgraded, modified, or repaired.

    PINIONS
    For our track, often the best performance is from the OEM 9z pinion (Inline) and 11z (sidewinder and anglewinder)

    VOLTAGE & Rear Wheel RPM
    For our 55-foot lazy-8, mild hill-climb, most of our 1/32 RTR series handle best at 11 volts. For the larger 1/24 BRM and Scaleauto series, 12v is often used. In some 1/32 series with heavy cars or low-torque motors we may also use 12v.
    RPM- best performance on our track seems to occur with tach’ed rear-wheel RPMs of 7,500 – 7,800; for some cars and some drivers up to 8k – 8.2k is manageable, but this is NOT common.
    *These results are for plastic-chassis, ‘scale’ 1/32 ready-to-race (RTR) cars weighing on average between 60-80 grams.

    "... get on your bad motor scooter and ride!"
    Sammy with Montrose

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    BarkingSpyder

    At 4-years old in Pensacola I repaired my steering linkage on my Ford Pedal-car. Dad later converted this car to a Blue Angel with ailerons and elevators with a working "stick/yoke"; the rudder was controlled by the steering wheel. I like all motorsports - I grew up going to a NASCAR Feeder track with Sportsman and Modified classes, and was lucky to attend drag races in 1970 at Orange County Raceway. My first solder-iron was a Christmas gift at 9yo; I modified T-Jets to be AFX spec before AFX Cars were in local stores. I rebuilt a few tractor & car (SIMCA) engines plus transmissions by 15yo (I still have my ring-compressor and valve spring tool) I am a former mountain and road bike geek & perennial sound engineer. Struggling guitar hobbyist and Amp "tweeker"