2025 Revoslot SCCA B Sedan – Road Track

This is all very academic at this point, but I would like to look into the possibility of re-bodying the chassis PROVIDED the new (printed) body A: contains all the detail elements of the Revo (driver, roll-cage, glazing, etc) B: The donor chassis is not cut or altered in any way. C: The replacement body weighs no less than the body it is replacing.

At this point I don't know if it is feasible, but it would be cool to see some Pintos and Gremlins out on the track :)

Final set of rules posted on the home page.

I will be running one of these two cars.  

Marty

Two problems have been identified on the RevoSlot cars.

1. The Alfa Romeo motor shaft sticks beyond the pinion far enough to rub the rear wheel and tire.  Therefor we will allow the motor shaft to be ground or cut off at the pinion.

2. The Datsun 510 has a manufacture error on the motor bracket causing loose or misaligned motor.  A cure for this has not been identified.  More information will be included in the rules.

Another issue is the voltage for the race.  Due to dusty track the 12 volt test seems to be causing wheel spin around the course.  Another test will be run at the Dec. 21 meeting on the clean track.

Randy

I ran both Revo’s Saturday on a clean track at 12 volts and couldn’t break 4’s got better at 12.6   I would recommend 12.6

Agree here with David - running at 12 was almost sleep-inducing the car was so compliant, and that was with old, hard tires. 12.5 was a bit more interesting and I was able to de-slot if I wasn't paying attention. 12.6 we didn't do, but the bottom line is that 12 is what I'd set things at for a kid who is just starting-out.

Anyone have the tire number for "Stock Revo Slot Tires?" Need to put in an order since I'm pretty sure I ran old slot-it 30's on that car for the rally. No clue where my stock tires ended up.

RS 217   30 shore  if that’s all you need I have a pair I’ll give you

I'm in agreement with running at higher voltage. Do we have a weight limit? I can't find it in the rules.

All,

I would keep the voltage at 12 volts.  All we need to do is use different spurs and/or pinions as allowed by the rules.

Here is what the different gearing looks like running at 12 volts.

stock - 9t pinion with a 24t spur = 7,875 calculated wheel RPM

option 1 - 9t pinion with a 23t spur = 8,217 calculated wheel RPM

option 2 - 10t pinion with a 24t spur = 8,750 calculated wheel RPM

option 3 - 10t pinion with a 23t spur = 9,130 calculated wheel RPM

option 4 - 12t pinion with a 26t spur = 9,692 calculated wheel RPM

As a point of reference, I typically run all of my well handling cars with a calculated wheel RPM of 9,100 to 9,400.

See, no need to change the voltage to anything other than 12 volts.  Everyone just needs to find the gearing that works best for their skill level.  Run the gears that you can run to achieve the best results.  More is not always better.  Better is having a car that is drivable and stays in the slot.

Here's my ride.

Love that Paul Newman car.  It can be seen in the movie Winning: The Racing Life of Paul Newman.  Great movie.

This should be a competitive series.

Just as a heads up.  All of the crowns and spur gears I mentioned earlier are currently available from Alan at 132slotcars and from Pendleslot.

https://132slotcar.us/revoslot-1-32-scale-slot-car-spare-parts/page-7

This is a website location on 132slotcars buried in the RevoSlot header, sub header RevoSlot Parts with the gears.

Depending on the first race I may change my gearing to reduce the rpm.  I have found that completing laps is more valuable that fastest lap.

Let's meet after the first race.

Randy, manager of B Sedan

OK - it's time to make a decision on voltage.  This will impact how everyone will set up their car.

I still say sticking with 12 volts is the way to go.  Simply put, this will allow the stock gearing to work best for new racers and those that have more difficulty keeping their car in the slot while the rules will allow those with more experience to change the gearing on their car to match the level of their driving and car preparation.

Let's have this sorted out sooner rather than later because it will also impact the Toyota GT1 race.

Since I could not navigate the 132 website to the gear selections, I went with the December Party test and the separate individual tests which showed the stock gears to be slugs below 12.6 V.  (I assume none of the 4 cars had modified the gear selection.)

I respect your wisdom on this subject.  I need major change of direction supported by the members who tested at the December meeting.

Randy

Again about fasteners. The rules state:

All chassis screws must be stock and be in place at the start of every race.

Body screws can be either the stock screws or the brass replacement screws (RS-213b).

As i have mentioned, i have gotten a 510 with badly stamped motor pod screws. Why can't I use fasteners from my parts bins if they are the same size/thread? Seems am odd thing to be anal about.

As far as body screws, though, the stock screws are just M2 Phillips, right? The brass, I’m guessing, is slotted. So, no hex or torx? I don’t see the rationale.

Marc,

All spec series are designed to make setting up the car as easy as possible and therefore calls for stock parts to be used.  This makes it easier for someone new to the series to know exactly what parts are to be used so they can set up their car equally to the other racers.  If all screws were allowed and someone found a screw that had a smooth section on it that had an advantage to the fully threaded screw then there might be an advantage.  This is the case with just about any larger or national series I am aware of.  People tend to interpret the rules their way to find as Mark Donahue put it "an unfair advantage".  I am not saying you are specifically looking for an advantage but I want everyone to understand the reason for the rules.  It's also much easier for a series manager to scrutineer the cars when they are all using the same parts.

OTOH, if the carpet monster eats a body screw, that sends me to Alan at scale racing.com ti order a replacement which may or may not show up in time for the race, while i have virtually identical screws, save the drive style in my kit.

AS far as the unfair advantage goes. A spec race really ought to have spec controllers if it is to have any meaning. Perhaps spec races should specify the use of the club controllers to level the playing field.

Please use the screw with the closest configuration that you have with any slot, hex, torq.  I will not DQ you, (just don't beat me).

Marc,

Don't discount the inventory of the club.  Many members, myself included, have loads of spare parts for instances just like the one you described.  Best to post what you are looking for and I bet you will find it.  As they said in Harry Potter - "Help will always be given to those that ask".

I thought that was the Beatles

Jagger/Richards

You can't always get what you want
But if you try sometimes
Well, you just might find
You get what you need

I want to apologize gor being grumpy. Kinda stressful these days, should not have vented here.

I am also sending an email on this topic.

I expect numerous changes to cars when new parts arrive and are installed before the next race.

Which tires were you using for the first race?  Brand should be RevoSlot or urethane, and which hardness from 22-35.

We could see rubber pebbles on the track in every lane and the cars were vibrating from pebbles stuck to tires.

Does anyone have a suggestion for tires that are commonly available which do not "shed"?

Randy Radial TA

I ordered Paul Gage shore 20’s hope yo get them in time to true for next race.

The rules say "Only the stock wheel inserts on the car as sold are allowed."  This is not working because I have not been able to find a replacement for an insert that flew off behind the race track.  Therefor the rules are changed by me, the manager, to "The wheel inserts may be the stock inserts or after market inserts of which all four are the same of a type used in the era or in vintage racing."

I was pondering this comment from Marty yesterday as I was setting up my car:

"As a point of reference, I typically run all of my well handling cars with a calculated wheel RPM of 9,100 to 9,400."

Would you be willing to say what that 9100-9400 is in reference-to? Is this the wheel revolution at the max revs of the motor or some other point?

I wouldn't blame you for saying one must figure this out for oneself. :)