2023 Policar Vintage F1 Series

That sounds good, Marty. The fit and finish of these critters, especially with the fiddly bits on the back, is turning out to be far from consistent. For all - In general, try re-fitting any poorly fitted parts instead of modifying, but barring that, there will be flexibility in policing this. We care a lot about rubber on the road and width but will be reasonable toward modifications to allow the car to run. We won't be too reasonable with modifications that just make your life easier (like removing the fiddly bits).

Thanks for the additional information.  Looking forward to seeing these cars on the track.

Marty

1) New Policar Vintage F1 cars listed at Pendle:

• Ferrari 126 C2 No.27 Gilles Villeneuve - NOT ELIGIBLE (sorry)
• Lotus 72E No.6 Monza GP 1971 Herbert Muller - ELIGIBLE

2) I have been doing a lot of testing of the Lotus 72E, modified to use the required rear wheels and rear width and find it a wonderful thing to drive. I have already broken-off one of the "brakes" by just fitting the body to the car. Super glue to get it repositioned and some shoe goo after it set was my fix. Just keep gluing them back together, folks. The stock wires broke off at the guide after about 200 laps. But man, it is just very smooth and fun. Can't wait!

MARC - cool gauge, similar in function to what Alejandro developed for some Revoslot series - keep on Innovating :)

Another Livery in from Policar now available, March 701, Spanish GP, Mario Andretti. Considering this one, in Lieu of the Ferrari.

It is traditional in our club to replace push-on plastic wheels and knurled axles with solid axles and aluminum or mag wheels with grub screws.  ARE WE STILL RESTRICTED TO PLASTIC PUSH-ON IN FRONT?

The specs say 3 different Policar or stock rear tires, OR any other tire that meets max width.  What is the pre-race best idea, brand and stock number for non-Policar tires?

I am ordering parts Aug. 27-30th.  I would like to order non-Policar tires now if they are the hot item.

( funny that the YouTube video guy did not true the tires )

Word has cone down from the Home Office that the wheel requirements stated in the Race rules are to stand. The
16x11.7 wheels are still available from Pendle

policar-aluminium-f1-rear-wheels-16x11-7.html

Also at 132 slotcar.us
pw16011724a-aluminum-rear-wheels-2-early-70s-f1-cars

-Marc (Datto)

My white kit 701 is a blast to drive on the track but makes a high pitched whining sound.  As cool as it is to kind of have it sound like an F1 car, I am wondering if there is something that needs to be adjusted with the gear mesh.  I have honestly been hesitant to open the thing back up because of how tricky it is to attach the body to the chassis.  Any tips?

To Randy's Question.

The rules specify for the front:

• Front wheels must be original that came with the car.
• Front track width must remain standard.
• Front tires must be part PPT1220C1.
• Front tyres may be glued and trued.

I should be back into the mix in a couple more weeks when my company's busy season takes a nose-dive. I hope to make the first F1 events, but we'll see what happens since I'm still traveling heavily through the end of the month - that's why Marc and I are a co-manager of the series. All the testing I had hoped to do has gone completely out the window and the parts I ordered are sitting quietly here on a shelf. Ugh.

I have put off disassembly for full race prep of my Jackie Stewart March due to the excessive heat in the club house.  New aluminum wheels are coming, but I have trued the stock tires on sand paper flat on my run-in block.  The times today on a cleaned yellow lane were consistently 4.8-4.9.  The news paper will be reporting the car is having teething problems the first race.  Not much gear noise and relatively good front tire/axle performance without the grub screws and truing.  A break in the weather before the first race would be appreciated.

Holy cow!  I just opened my Policar F1 Ferrari to work on the gears and here is what I found.

I had no idea the gearing for these cars was so complex.  I hope I get it sorted out by this Saturdays race.

My car with better Policar 22 trued tires, and softer braids is slow enough that it does not deslot.  The front axle/tire grub screws are not completely set, but it is a pain because you have to remove the body to get to the upper grub screw holes.  I have considered the once-upon-a-time "Spider" trick of drilling holes in the body to access the upper grubs.

Been getting some good times.  I guess I can live with the noise, whatever it may be.  Very slight margin of error between cutting deep into the turns with some traction losing  drift and keeping the tires propelling the little thing forward.  It's a blast!

Update to the rules to be more clear. The guide rule has now been updated to:

• Must be a genuine Policar guide as supplied with the car.

This was to better align the rule to the intentions of the original rule - that the guide must be original but modifications to the guide is allowed.

My front axle spins great without the body.  I think my wires are pushed down by the body, and rubbing on the front axle.  They are pretty bulky wires,  so I wonder, does the gauge of the wires affect the power of the motor.  I have some flexible small gauge wire.

Randy - I would go with NSR motor wire.  It is thin and very flexible.  I have had great luck with it.

Marty