2018 series talk

2018 CALENDAR CHANGES
ALL - Please review the Google Calendar
SHAWN please verify that the F40 vs McLaren GTR schedule is OK (6/23, 7/7, 7/21, 8/4, 8/18, 8/25) The back-to-back on #5, #6 is to accomodate the very active schedule at COTA in Sept and hence we have more than normal "dark" weekends that month. Plus b/c of the annual meeting in Oct we had to move some dates around in Oct also.
RALLY shares Oct 27 with the Blacklight race (like we have doubled up a few times in the past with the Blacklight)
ARY please verify that the Carerra GT schedule is OK (9/15, 9/22, 10/6, 11/17, 11/17, 12/1) #4, #5 are doubled on Nov 17 to accommodate the SVRA race Nov 3-4 and Thanksgiving Nov 24 (similar to some double headers we had in Nov'17).  An option is to move #4 to Nov 10 when we would have a long day from the Club Meeting, Carerra, Rally.

Rally practice dates have been proposed: http://austinslotcarclub.com/forums/topic/nsr-rally-renault-clio-r3-vs-abarth-s2000/#post-11948

1. Can we move Thunderslot discussions to the thread that Randy started? ThunderSlot thread
Otherwise this may turn into a mixed Thunderslot & Revoslot discussion - in the long run for non-club readers it may be easier for them to follow, plus for our historical reference it may be easier for us.
2. 2nd Dibs on White Dana #52 White/Dana-LugunaSeca 1967 Peter Revson but changing number from #52 to #21 and sponsor changes (to not clash with Jordan's #52).
3. Specs Recommendations:
-- Keep Front plastic wheels-allow ThunderSlot upgrade Zero-Grip tires 16X9mm (TYR003FR)
-- Allow Rear ThunderSlot upgrade tires 19X10mm(TYR004R standard) and wheels 15X10mm(RMR002AL)
-- Allow above pan weights, including Slot.It 2.5g slug (SISP23)
-- Allow Slot.It DeepWood Guide (SICH07)
-- 11volts seems fine-these cars dip into the 3's with a little tuning and some practice.
4. Available Models for Your Reference

More thoughts on the Thunderslot series:

The "white kit" comes with enough parts to build several versions of the Lola T70 Spyder:

There are two windshields, two dashboards, two driver heads, four roll bars and three engine options.  There is a Chevy engine with vertical intakes, a cross-ram block as run by Donahue/Penske, and a Ford Indy dual overhead cam engine with bundle-of-snakes exhaust over the rear deck.  Note that the engine supplied with the Gurney #30 car is incorrect as it has Chevrolet valve covers rather than the Gurney-Weslake heads on a small block Ford engine.  Right now I am thinking that I am going to race a Spyder, set up as the #21 car with the  Ford dual overhead cam engine as raced by Parnelli Jones and Mario Andretti.  Presumably, this car, as well as others, will as some point be available from Thunderslot.

In comparing the coupes and spyders, my red coupe weighs 63.1 grams and the #30 Gurney spyder weighs 58.5 grams.  The front/rear weight distribution between the two cars is within one percentage point.  It remains to be seen how the two cars compare on the track.  The spyder is a good bit lighter but the coupe may have a slightly higher center of gravity which may help weight transfer to the outside wheel for more cornering grip.

I also will be running the Red coupe #2 ill have to change the number.

Jordan will be running Dana # 52

I trued the front tires of the ThunderSlot carefully and discovered three things.  The front axle is NOT knurled, so the plastic wheels side off without damage.  The plastic wheels have inserts so I could put the tire truer axle through the wheels.   I trued very carefully, test driving twice, still hopping after first true.  Then discovered that the fronts were true but soft, very unlike our usual hard zero grips.  I did not run laps after the last true, but expect real good times.  This is also the car that lost a front axle height adjustment grub and I am still waiting for those parts.

I would like to call Daytona 24 hours 1969 (#8) as my car for the Thunderslot series.

I have changed the number on my blue and silver Revo Slot to 68 with red numbers.  Now it also has blue wheels in front and silver in rear to match the body colors.

I do not like the idea of truing the front tires on stock plastic wheels and force fit axles.  My roadster seems to bounce on the un-trued fronts.  Marty tells me a very light touch on the truer will preserve the stock tire and wheel, but will it preserve the force fit on the axle?

I have had the #30 Gurney roadster for almost 4 months.  I would change the number to 48 if I must to satisfy the "dibs" idea, but only reluctantly.  It may be too late to really call dibs.  (Letting Slot.it McLarens in the series would make more cars available;)

11 volts seems plenty on this light car.

Preliminary Thunderslot Series Rules

Guys, I apologize because I have been so busy that I have not had time to post rules for the Thunderslot series.  Mark has taken the time to produce a set of rules and I have discussed them with him.  I will post these preliminary rules shortly, with the goal of having final rules by Feb. 1.  That will give everyone a couple of months to get their cars ready for the series.

My thoughts are to keep the cars as stock as possible, with two goals in mind: a level playing field and to keep the costs down.  Any changes from stock that make the cars faster, as, say, independent front axles, will mean everyone will need to make the changes to be competitive.  Rule changes from stock would primarily be due to a problem with stock parts--erratic behavior, failures, etc.--and not just to make the cars faster.  To that end I propose stock chassis, stock anglewinder motor pod, stock guide, stock front wheels, stock motor, gears, axles, etc.  The low grip front tires may be OK and either the trued original treaded rear tires or the optional slicks would be allowed.  Probably, the optional larger diameter rear wheels may be allowed, due to concern that worn tires on the original wheels may mean that the chassis bottoms out on the track.  Personally, I will try the original wheels to see if the tires will last.

I do not see a need for tire diameter specs in this series.  With the adjustable front axle height, it is not necessary on the front, and the rears are self-limiting, due to low clearance below the chassis.  Track would be limited by not exceeding the width of the body.

Added weight, above the chassis would be allowed.  I think installing grub screws in the provided chassis holes on the edge, to control float to the body, would be OK.

Dibs should  be called on car liveries. For duplicate liveries, car numbers must be changed.  As I was the first to buy one of these cars, I would like to call dibs on the red Lola coupe #2.  However, if I decide to run a roadster, this car livery would be available.  If more cars become available, they would also be allowed, pending any production changes, different from the original cars.  If anyone notices any changes between any of the existing or upcoming cars, such as width, motor, wheels, weight, etc., please bring it to my attention as soon as possible.

I am also considering running the series at 12 volts.  I did some brief running with my cars on Saturday, while running the Revo Slot car, and the cars were controllable and very quick.  I would like to hear what everyone thinks about this.

If anyone has input as to the rules, please post to this forum.  Reasonable rules changes would be considered.

Thanks

Russell

Roy had asked that I post what the front tire diameters were post race on Saturday.  Here you go.

Marty - 19.69mm

Roy - 19.46mm

Russell - 19.46mm

Shawn - 19.48mm

David - 19.40mm

Jordan - 19.47mm

Alejandro - 19.29mm

Mark - 19.52mm

John - 19.59mm

Randy - 19.??mm

RevoSlot rules update - minimum front tire diameter post race - the minimum front tire diameter post race has been changed from 19.60mm to 19.40mm.  Please prepare your cars to this new standard.

Marty

Marty - is this legal on the Porsche?

Nice picture Randy!  Those are some good looking cars.  You should take the same pic at the end of the year and see what the comparison looks like.

Happy New Year 2018 Series!

REVOSLOT ADVICE FROM ALAN (as of 6:30 tonite)
-- PINION SLIPPAGE
~~ A drop of RED LocTite (271) where the pinion and shaft tip join (Blue is too weak and solder is too risky)
-- PINION LASH
~~ The RVS pinions are 'sharp' out of the box and prevent the pinion from seating into the spur correctly - hence the slop and noise. Alan says take off the point by removing the rear axle and spur, then press a emory board against the pinion tips. Monitor with a magnifying glass - look for rounded tips. Alan insists this is a key tuning step.
~~ Alan confirmed that lash is Not set at the factory consistently. After rounding the pinion, set the lash with the motor pod screws.
~~ Use thin tough paper (bible, very thin vellum, thin blueprint paper or parchment, 2-3 rolling-papers, etc.) to gauge how tight the gears should be. Feed the paper between pinion and spur - tighten bolts, then slowly roll out the paper. Laser/copier paper and stiff parchment are too thick.
-- POD BOLTS
~~ These actually have 1.5mm head sockets, (Not Torx-6) but may not match the allen wrench that fits the 1.5mm head grub screws. If the allen wrench that fits your grubs does Not also fit the motor pod bolts, either (a) try other 1.5mm wrenches until you find one that fits, (b) get another wrench and carefully sand its facets until it fits the Pod screws. (c) Mark your pod wrench and wheel/spur wrench separately so you don't strip your bolts or wrenches.

Thanks for letting us know about the pinion.  Something we all need to keep an eye on.  You can solder it to the motor shaft if that will work for you.  I will be keeping a close eye on mine.

This is what happens when you put too much time into practicing.  :)

Marty

Ok fellow racers and enthusiasts

My revoslot pinion got loose totally loose

Can I solder it to the motor shaft ????

And if so please check all yours if his happens to me can happen to anyone

During a race !!!!!

Please advise and

Thanks

REVOSLOT TIRES MARBLE EASILY
My Shore-30 OEM tires - that I trued and glued - last night started to marble ridiculously.
They gummed up on the cleaner, but thankfully I did not see any skid-marks on the track.
Recos: --do not use lighter fluid when truing; --true to a minimum;
--as Marty confirmed, the tires are very tight so gluing has not yet been found to be necessary.

Oh God - I think Randy has been watching "The Full Monty" too many times after one too many Kalibers (NA-beer). Hey for the Christmas party I think I will get you a new micrometer or magnifier .... LOL

CAUTION ThunderSlot rear wheel on one side of my roadster had the correct coarse thread grub screw and the other wheel had the fine thread front suspension adjustment grub screw.  After I trued the tires the wheel grub screws both came out.  I did not get the fine screw back in its original wheel and stripped the wheel threads.  Then I stripped the other hole in that wheel.  Nice.  I have looked at both screws and the screws on the wheels I just received in the mail and I never would have guessed they would use 2 different grub screws.  The Professor lists two different spare grub screws, but I have not figured out which is the wheel and which is the suspension.

Randy - I have no problem with it.  I think it needs to be brought up with Russell-the series manager.  I know there were some club members really looking forward to running them.  I don't think they will be competitive with the Thunderslot cars but we will have to find out.

Marty

Not sour grapes about the 2018 classes, but I think we should reconsider the ThunderSlot class and add the slot.it McLaren.  We could get together a couple of the McLarens already in the members hands and a couple of Thunderslots in a pre-season race with comparable skilled drivers and see if they are competitive with each other.  The cars would need to be similarly prepared and geared with very limited changes of course.

Re the NSR Rally Cars (Punto and Clio)
The shared chassis for the NSR Punto and Clio is the new school triangle-pod version.
As per Marty's pic and guidance, to install a NSR1264-EVO-SW-triangular extra-hard-red-motor-mount, (e.g. for a 25k shark) the angular brace in the chassis needs to be clipped and sanded.

REVO SLOT SPARES from 132Slotcar.us
1 x RS-213 Revo Slot complete screw set. (RS-) = $4.99
1 x RS-107 GT2 inserts unpainted (RS-107) = $5.99
1 x RS-109 GT2 rear wheels and 3mm grub screws (RS-108) = $7.99
1 x RS-202 GT2 rear tires Shore 30 ( stock ) (RS-202) = $5.99
1 x RS-208 Revo Slot brass chassis nuts & screws X 4 (RS-208) = $6.99
1 x RS-210S Revo Slot guide screws X 2 (RS-210S) = $3.99
1 x RS-210W Revo Slot guide 9mm deep (for Carrera & wood tracks) X 2 (RS-210W) = $3.99
1 x SC-5010 M3 Allen wrench - tip=1.5mm (SC-5010) = $24.99

REVO SLOT PARTS
Hey guys, some of you are interested in spare tires.  Marty says the stock tires are very durable, but it does not hurt to have backups.
Alan (132slotcar.us) is in-process of documenting what parts he has, specifically tires, wheels, and guides. They are not on his website yet. When he does I will pass on the info (part-numbers, prices).
They are not (easy to find...) on Pendle's site nor BRM's site.

POSTED FOR RUSSELL

Some comments:

I like Ary's idea of individual voltage controllers. This would be especially good for series with a spec motor. The master voltage could be set to 11.5V or 12V to allow just a little variation for voltage, up to 15V for quite a lot. For Steve's Prototype/GT series, the GT cars could be set to a fixed, lower voltage.

I am opposed to any series requiring stock plastic wheels. A spec wheel could be required, if necessary.

I realize that the goal for series discussion and preliminary voting was to weed out less popular options to make the often long-winded discussion at the annual meeting more manageable, but I would hesitate to say that only the top six would be considered. There are too many variables on rules that would make some series more or less popular. Cases could be made at the meeting for particular rules that would make a low-ranking series much more palatable. We could probably eliminate those that are at the bottom of the preliminary voting.

If the Can Am series is voted in, I would like to see an open format. Simply requiring a maximum wheel width of 12mm would eliminate any, ahem....., creative wheel construction. I don't think it would be necessary to require F1 wheels, as they would be hard to find inserts for. Wheel diameter would be open as a wide variety of wheels were used. The F1 20 X 12 F22 Raptor tires will fit a standard wheel. I think the only other rule requirement would be to disallow any 1:30 or larger cars. Tires and wheels must fit within the body width.

IMHO
Russell

Regarding a sandpaper truer, above the power supplies is a simple "tire cleaner" - a piece of carerra track with #300? sandpaper on it.  We use if for minor clean-up truing between races, and for HO cars.  I made it back in May when Bobby was taping paper onto the bench and truing his tires that way.

Regarding the Razor, I bought Dave's and adjusted it to make it actually level (it was not truing each side equally).  Mine works Ok - yes Ary it's not a precision tool but for carreras it would be ok.

ALSO - why dont we just allow Slot.It axles, wheels and 12mm tires?  I converted my Carerra 2016 GT40.  It is still Heavy and we should consider a Slot.It Orange endbell motor.  Everyone has spares and those that dont can buy parts from another member.

Ary - Don't we have an Area 3 or Tire Razor truer that will allow us to true tires with axles that have pressed on wheels?  If not, we could use the old block of sandpaper and lowering the car on top of the paper with the motor running and true the wheels that way.  It worked for me when first starting off in slot cars.  It's not as good as a real truer but its better than nothing.  The club could invest in a truer that could do this type of work.  Slot Car Corner has the Tire Razor in stock for $159.

I like the series idea and would not want the tire truer to be the reason we decide not to hold the series.

Ok,

Using the plastic wheels is out of the question. Not because the wheels are not round or because the tires do not fit well; the issue is simply that I cannot figure out a way to true tires on plastic wheels.

Taking the wheels out is a bad idea as it may enlarge the axle hole. Leaving them on, and trying to true using the Tire Razor truer is possibly just as bad - that truer is wrong in so many ways, I will save the "review" for later.

Anyhow, we can still race a Carrera based GT series but we would have to change the wheels; not what I had in mind.

Marty,

Wheels are round and the rear tires suggested fit nicely -- fit better than the original front tires, but we can change that in the future.

I'm still working in the car but should have it ready by Saturday.