2018 series talk

REVO SLOT SPARES from 132Slotcar.us
1 x RS-213 Revo Slot complete screw set. (RS-) = $4.99
1 x RS-107 GT2 inserts unpainted (RS-107) = $5.99
1 x RS-109 GT2 rear wheels and 3mm grub screws (RS-108) = $7.99
1 x RS-202 GT2 rear tires Shore 30 ( stock ) (RS-202) = $5.99
1 x RS-208 Revo Slot brass chassis nuts & screws X 4 (RS-208) = $6.99
1 x RS-210S Revo Slot guide screws X 2 (RS-210S) = $3.99
1 x RS-210W Revo Slot guide 9mm deep (for Carrera & wood tracks) X 2 (RS-210W) = $3.99
1 x SC-5010 M3 Allen wrench - tip=1.5mm (SC-5010) = $24.99

Re the NSR Rally Cars (Punto and Clio)
The shared chassis for the NSR Punto and Clio is the new school triangle-pod version.
As per Marty's pic and guidance, to install a NSR1264-EVO-SW-triangular extra-hard-red-motor-mount, (e.g. for a 25k shark) the angular brace in the chassis needs to be clipped and sanded.

Not sour grapes about the 2018 classes, but I think we should reconsider the ThunderSlot class and add the slot.it McLaren.  We could get together a couple of the McLarens already in the members hands and a couple of Thunderslots in a pre-season race with comparable skilled drivers and see if they are competitive with each other.  The cars would need to be similarly prepared and geared with very limited changes of course.

Randy - I have no problem with it.  I think it needs to be brought up with Russell-the series manager.  I know there were some club members really looking forward to running them.  I don't think they will be competitive with the Thunderslot cars but we will have to find out.

Marty

CAUTION ThunderSlot rear wheel on one side of my roadster had the correct coarse thread grub screw and the other wheel had the fine thread front suspension adjustment grub screw.  After I trued the tires the wheel grub screws both came out.  I did not get the fine screw back in its original wheel and stripped the wheel threads.  Then I stripped the other hole in that wheel.  Nice.  I have looked at both screws and the screws on the wheels I just received in the mail and I never would have guessed they would use 2 different grub screws.  The Professor lists two different spare grub screws, but I have not figured out which is the wheel and which is the suspension.

Oh God - I think Randy has been watching "The Full Monty" too many times after one too many Kalibers (NA-beer). Hey for the Christmas party I think I will get you a new micrometer or magnifier .... LOL

REVOSLOT TIRES MARBLE EASILY
My Shore-30 OEM tires - that I trued and glued - last night started to marble ridiculously.
They gummed up on the cleaner, but thankfully I did not see any skid-marks on the track.
Recos: --do not use lighter fluid when truing; --true to a minimum;
--as Marty confirmed, the tires are very tight so gluing has not yet been found to be necessary.

Ok fellow racers and enthusiasts

My revoslot pinion got loose totally loose

Can I solder it to the motor shaft ????

And if so please check all yours if his happens to me can happen to anyone

During a race !!!!!

Please advise and

Thanks

Thanks for letting us know about the pinion.  Something we all need to keep an eye on.  You can solder it to the motor shaft if that will work for you.  I will be keeping a close eye on mine.

This is what happens when you put too much time into practicing.  :)

Marty

REVOSLOT ADVICE FROM ALAN (as of 6:30 tonite)
-- PINION SLIPPAGE
~~ A drop of RED LocTite (271) where the pinion and shaft tip join (Blue is too weak and solder is too risky)
-- PINION LASH
~~ The RVS pinions are 'sharp' out of the box and prevent the pinion from seating into the spur correctly - hence the slop and noise. Alan says take off the point by removing the rear axle and spur, then press a emory board against the pinion tips. Monitor with a magnifying glass - look for rounded tips. Alan insists this is a key tuning step.
~~ Alan confirmed that lash is Not set at the factory consistently. After rounding the pinion, set the lash with the motor pod screws.
~~ Use thin tough paper (bible, very thin vellum, thin blueprint paper or parchment, 2-3 rolling-papers, etc.) to gauge how tight the gears should be. Feed the paper between pinion and spur - tighten bolts, then slowly roll out the paper. Laser/copier paper and stiff parchment are too thick.
-- POD BOLTS
~~ These actually have 1.5mm head sockets, (Not Torx-6) but may not match the allen wrench that fits the 1.5mm head grub screws. If the allen wrench that fits your grubs does Not also fit the motor pod bolts, either (a) try other 1.5mm wrenches until you find one that fits, (b) get another wrench and carefully sand its facets until it fits the Pod screws. (c) Mark your pod wrench and wheel/spur wrench separately so you don't strip your bolts or wrenches.

Happy New Year 2018 Series!

Nice picture Randy!  Those are some good looking cars.  You should take the same pic at the end of the year and see what the comparison looks like.

Marty - is this legal on the Porsche?

RevoSlot rules update - minimum front tire diameter post race - the minimum front tire diameter post race has been changed from 19.60mm to 19.40mm.  Please prepare your cars to this new standard.

Marty

Roy had asked that I post what the front tire diameters were post race on Saturday.  Here you go.

Marty - 19.69mm

Roy - 19.46mm

Russell - 19.46mm

Shawn - 19.48mm

David - 19.40mm

Jordan - 19.47mm

Alejandro - 19.29mm

Mark - 19.52mm

John - 19.59mm

Randy - 19.??mm

Preliminary Thunderslot Series Rules

Guys, I apologize because I have been so busy that I have not had time to post rules for the Thunderslot series.  Mark has taken the time to produce a set of rules and I have discussed them with him.  I will post these preliminary rules shortly, with the goal of having final rules by Feb. 1.  That will give everyone a couple of months to get their cars ready for the series.

My thoughts are to keep the cars as stock as possible, with two goals in mind: a level playing field and to keep the costs down.  Any changes from stock that make the cars faster, as, say, independent front axles, will mean everyone will need to make the changes to be competitive.  Rule changes from stock would primarily be due to a problem with stock parts--erratic behavior, failures, etc.--and not just to make the cars faster.  To that end I propose stock chassis, stock anglewinder motor pod, stock guide, stock front wheels, stock motor, gears, axles, etc.  The low grip front tires may be OK and either the trued original treaded rear tires or the optional slicks would be allowed.  Probably, the optional larger diameter rear wheels may be allowed, due to concern that worn tires on the original wheels may mean that the chassis bottoms out on the track.  Personally, I will try the original wheels to see if the tires will last.

I do not see a need for tire diameter specs in this series.  With the adjustable front axle height, it is not necessary on the front, and the rears are self-limiting, due to low clearance below the chassis.  Track would be limited by not exceeding the width of the body.

Added weight, above the chassis would be allowed.  I think installing grub screws in the provided chassis holes on the edge, to control float to the body, would be OK.

Dibs should  be called on car liveries. For duplicate liveries, car numbers must be changed.  As I was the first to buy one of these cars, I would like to call dibs on the red Lola coupe #2.  However, if I decide to run a roadster, this car livery would be available.  If more cars become available, they would also be allowed, pending any production changes, different from the original cars.  If anyone notices any changes between any of the existing or upcoming cars, such as width, motor, wheels, weight, etc., please bring it to my attention as soon as possible.

I am also considering running the series at 12 volts.  I did some brief running with my cars on Saturday, while running the Revo Slot car, and the cars were controllable and very quick.  I would like to hear what everyone thinks about this.

If anyone has input as to the rules, please post to this forum.  Reasonable rules changes would be considered.

Thanks

Russell

I do not like the idea of truing the front tires on stock plastic wheels and force fit axles.  My roadster seems to bounce on the un-trued fronts.  Marty tells me a very light touch on the truer will preserve the stock tire and wheel, but will it preserve the force fit on the axle?

I have had the #30 Gurney roadster for almost 4 months.  I would change the number to 48 if I must to satisfy the "dibs" idea, but only reluctantly.  It may be too late to really call dibs.  (Letting Slot.it McLarens in the series would make more cars available;)

11 volts seems plenty on this light car.

I have changed the number on my blue and silver Revo Slot to 68 with red numbers.  Now it also has blue wheels in front and silver in rear to match the body colors.

I would like to call Daytona 24 hours 1969 (#8) as my car for the Thunderslot series.

I trued the front tires of the ThunderSlot carefully and discovered three things.  The front axle is NOT knurled, so the plastic wheels side off without damage.  The plastic wheels have inserts so I could put the tire truer axle through the wheels.   I trued very carefully, test driving twice, still hopping after first true.  Then discovered that the fronts were true but soft, very unlike our usual hard zero grips.  I did not run laps after the last true, but expect real good times.  This is also the car that lost a front axle height adjustment grub and I am still waiting for those parts.

I also will be running the Red coupe #2 ill have to change the number.

Jordan will be running Dana # 52

More thoughts on the Thunderslot series:

The "white kit" comes with enough parts to build several versions of the Lola T70 Spyder:

There are two windshields, two dashboards, two driver heads, four roll bars and three engine options.  There is a Chevy engine with vertical intakes, a cross-ram block as run by Donahue/Penske, and a Ford Indy dual overhead cam engine with bundle-of-snakes exhaust over the rear deck.  Note that the engine supplied with the Gurney #30 car is incorrect as it has Chevrolet valve covers rather than the Gurney-Weslake heads on a small block Ford engine.  Right now I am thinking that I am going to race a Spyder, set up as the #21 car with the  Ford dual overhead cam engine as raced by Parnelli Jones and Mario Andretti.  Presumably, this car, as well as others, will as some point be available from Thunderslot.

In comparing the coupes and spyders, my red coupe weighs 63.1 grams and the #30 Gurney spyder weighs 58.5 grams.  The front/rear weight distribution between the two cars is within one percentage point.  It remains to be seen how the two cars compare on the track.  The spyder is a good bit lighter but the coupe may have a slightly higher center of gravity which may help weight transfer to the outside wheel for more cornering grip.

1. Can we move Thunderslot discussions to the thread that Randy started? ThunderSlot thread
Otherwise this may turn into a mixed Thunderslot & Revoslot discussion - in the long run for non-club readers it may be easier for them to follow, plus for our historical reference it may be easier for us.
2. 2nd Dibs on White Dana #52 White/Dana-LugunaSeca 1967 Peter Revson but changing number from #52 to #21 and sponsor changes (to not clash with Jordan's #52).
3. Specs Recommendations:
-- Keep Front plastic wheels-allow ThunderSlot upgrade Zero-Grip tires 16X9mm (TYR003FR)
-- Allow Rear ThunderSlot upgrade tires 19X10mm(TYR004R standard) and wheels 15X10mm(RMR002AL)
-- Allow above pan weights, including Slot.It 2.5g slug (SISP23)
-- Allow Slot.It DeepWood Guide (SICH07)
-- 11volts seems fine-these cars dip into the 3's with a little tuning and some practice.
4. Available Models for Your Reference

2018 CALENDAR CHANGES
ALL - Please review the Google Calendar
SHAWN please verify that the F40 vs McLaren GTR schedule is OK (6/23, 7/7, 7/21, 8/4, 8/18, 8/25) The back-to-back on #5, #6 is to accomodate the very active schedule at COTA in Sept and hence we have more than normal "dark" weekends that month. Plus b/c of the annual meeting in Oct we had to move some dates around in Oct also.
RALLY shares Oct 27 with the Blacklight race (like we have doubled up a few times in the past with the Blacklight)
ARY please verify that the Carerra GT schedule is OK (9/15, 9/22, 10/6, 11/17, 11/17, 12/1) #4, #5 are doubled on Nov 17 to accommodate the SVRA race Nov 3-4 and Thanksgiving Nov 24 (similar to some double headers we had in Nov'17).  An option is to move #4 to Nov 10 when we would have a long day from the Club Meeting, Carerra, Rally.

Rally practice dates have been proposed: http://austinslotcarclub.com/forums/topic/nsr-rally-renault-clio-r3-vs-abarth-s2000/#post-11948